Film processing issues

[macandal]

Here we go...

1. Dust
As hard as I try keeping dust away from my negatives, I seem to always get the ugly black spots when I make a print. And even when I succeed in making exposures without dust on the negative, dust makes its way to my negatives somehow, even though I brush the negatives clean before making an enlargement, there's dust on my print (white spots).

How do you keep dust away from negatives at all times?

2. Loading film into tanks
I use one of these Nikor tanks (daylight safe) to process my 4x5:

104597

I like these tanks. But while I like them, sometimes I have trouble getting them in. Sometimes is not only a problem getting them in, but I scratch the film, and sometimes I even get them stuck to other sheets. To those of you who use these tanks, any tips on safely loading the sheets into the tanks?

Thanks.

[Mark Woods]

For the dust, I have a small tank of Nitrogen in my darkroom. I have it set at 90 PSI and use it to blow off the film when I load my holders and to blow off the negs when they're in the holder before I make an enlargement. I don't have dust problems. It's about $20 to fill the tank and lasts for 6 months or so (depending how active I am).

[Leigh]

2. Loading film into tanks
I use one of these Nikor tanks (daylight safe) to process my 4x5:
It appears you're missing the retaining band, which goes around the middle and holds the sheets in place:

104600

You'll find the instruction sheet online. It's only a couple of pages.

- Leigh

[ROL]

1) I feel your pain, and dust specks always seem to end up in mid grey monotonal regions where spotting can be difficult. Even AA listed this constant vexation as one of his golden rules of photography. Keep your bellows clean and load holders in a clean and somewhat humid environment. For some reason, I get cleaner negs when loading film in a Harrison tent on my tailgate in the field, than in my lab. Maybe the inside of the pup becomes relatively more humid than the drier air outside due to the increased perspiration from my captive, sweaty, anxious hands. Go figure.

2) I'm not entirely certain why most people seem to gravitate towards tanks, and every other contraption other than trays for processing, but sometimes (always in my book) the simplest, least expensive methods work best and most reliably.

[Michael Cienfuegos]

My reels came without the bands, so I use a large rubber band. It works.

m

[macandal]

It appears you're missing the retaining band, which goes around the middle and holds the sheets in place:

104600No. I have it.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Very much of dust is dead skin cells, and some people shed more than others. I had an employee that had to wear a mask, cap and gloves when scanning film. It helped.

In my darkroom I have a powered Honeywell HEPA filter (http://www.diapers.com/p/honeywell-permanent-true-hepa-air-purifier-with-germ-reduction-23310?site=CA&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc_D&utm_term=ZV-033&utm_campaign=GooglePLA&CAWELAID=1338631632&utm_content=pla&ca_sku=ZV-033&ca_gpa=pla&ca_kw={keyword}) that really works. It filters and cycles the entire room several times an hour.

[Jac@stafford.net]

By the way, Nikor made another tank originally designed for 2 of the big 220 reels. It exactly fits your 4x5 reel, but with a little more volume (it is taller). If that is the tank you have, then it is important to put something inside at the top to keep the 4x5 reel from sloshing. (I used to sell that model with the taller tank as an option.)

[joselsgil]

Mario,

For your dust problem, try using a Kinetronics static wisk, Ilford antistatic cloth, and or a compressed aerosol dust spray on your holders, prior to loading the film. Also, wipe down and make sure your loading room is dust free. If you are loading your film in a loading bag or tent, make sure it is not falling apart and creating your dust problem.

Good luck,

Jose

[Bill Burk]

And for sliding the film in... Make sure that you adjust the upper rack carefully to align to the appropriate mark engraved on the posts.

[macandal]

Make sure that you adjust the upper rack carefully to align to the appropriate mark engraved on the posts.I'm not sure what you're trying to say here?

[Bill Burk]

There's tik marks on the rails that the top slides up and down on. Each set of marks corresponds to a common film size. Top mark is 4x5, use these marks to set each of the four adjustments. They help you maintain "parallel planes". If you eyeball it, you are likely to be skewed. If you try to fit the film you are likely to not leave enough tolerance.

[movida]

Re: loading the carousel

Here's what I do and so far, so good (except for the time I forgot to hold the lid and the loaded and developed carousel went flying...anyway...) I move the top up a hair higher than you should, practice with ruined film. Hold the film (emulsion side toward your right) at a 45 degree angle to one of the supports (you can feel along and make sure the film is perpendicular and even with the post along its length). That will make sure the film is lined up to slide into the grooves top and bottom. Before you start to push the film in turn it to the right slightly so that now it's parallel to the carousel still heading into the grooves and slide it in. You'll feel it immediately if it's not into both top and bottom grooves. Hope it helps.

Longtime lurker Jan

[Racer X 69]

Very much of dust is dead skin cells, and some people shed more than others. I had an employee that had to wear a mask, cap and gloves when scanning film. It helped.

In my darkroom I have a powered Honeywell HEPA filter (http://www.diapers.com/p/honeywell-permanent-true-hepa-air-purifier-with-germ-reduction-23310?site=CA&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc_D&utm_term=ZV-033&utm_campaign=GooglePLA&CAWELAID=1338631632&utm_content=pla&ca_sku=ZV-033&ca_gpa=pla&ca_kw={keyword}) that really works. It filters and cycles the entire room several times an hour.

This is a great way to reduce the dust an keep the darkroom clean. Thanks for sharing Jac.

[Racer X 69]

For the dust, I have a small tank of Nitrogen in my darkroom. I have it set at 90 PSI and use it to blow off the film when I load my holders and to blow off the negs when they're in the holder before I make an enlargement. I don't have dust problems. It's about $20 to fill the tank and lasts for 6 months or so (depending how active I am).

Using a cylinder of dry nitrogen sounds like a great idea. So, what size is your cylinder? Do you get industrial grade or hospital grade gas?

[Rafal Lukawiecki]

For some reason, I get cleaner negs when loading film in a Harrison tent on my tailgate in the field, than in my lab. Maybe the inside of the pup becomes relatively more humid than the drier air outside due to the increased perspiration from my captive, sweaty, anxious hands. Go figure.

That'd be my experience too. I've been told that changing tents increase dust issues, but I've seen exactly the opposite. Mine, also a Harrison, pup tent, definitely reduces the issue. I also think that humidity from my hands, while working in otherwise dry places, could be helping.

[Mark Woods]

I use the smaller cylinder. It lasts for about 6-8 months. I keep it in my darkroom and use it to blow off my negs when I print them. I load my film holders in the darkroom too. You need a regulator. I keep mine set at 90 lbs. and I have a simple blower with an on/off to work with. I do close the master valve when not in use since the quality isn't so good that there isn't a very small leak.

This is an old film tool that I learned years ago loading 1000' mags for optical printers. No photo shop. ;-)