About filters

[macandal]

Can someone tell me why is it recommended that filters be used in the back of the lens and not the front? I know this is a matter of preference, but I've seen it in different places where it is recommended that they are used in the back and not the front. Thanks. (Sorry, don't know enough about filters. Trying to learn more.)

[vinny]

Haven't heard that. I put mine in front since that's where the filter threads are:)
Hard to adjust a grad or pola behind the lens too. In fact, impossible.

[Bob Salomon]

Because some people feel that the loss in image quality by putting a filter behind the lens is not as important to them as the cost of the larger sized filter that is usually needed in front of the lens.

The only time a filter should be placed in any position other then the front of the lens is when the filteritself is part of the optical formula of the lens.
For instance, the Rodenstock HR Digaron-S lenses require a special glass plate be screwed into the back of the lens when the lens is used with film. When it is used with Digital that glass plate has to be removed. Anonther example are long Canon and Nikon lenses that accept drop-in filters.

[Drew Wiley]

Once in awhile the front element of a lens is so big that someone doesn't have a filter big enough for it, or can't afford a set that size. But with most typical view
camera lenses, putting a filter behind the rear element is going to compromise something, especially sharpness. Just for fun I did a little experimenting once to
confirm this, and did it with high-quality multi-coated glass filters. The ill effect was pretty obvious.

[Jerry Bodine]

Once in awhile the front element of a lens is so big that someone doesn't have a filter big enough for it, or can't afford a set that size. But with most typical view
camera lenses, putting a filter behind the rear element is going to compromise something, especially sharpness. Just for fun I did a little experimenting once to
confirm this, and did it with high-quality multi-coated glass filters. The ill effect was pretty obvious.

IIRC, anytime a filter is placed behind the lens it should be a gel filter to minimize the quality loss. In fact the Sinar Copal shutter has a clip on the back side to hold the gel in place, as shown here (http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/sinar_2.html).

[Leigh]

Can someone tell me why is it recommended that filters be used in the back of the lens and not the front?
I've only seen that recommended (or even possible) by the manufacturers in two situations:
1) The front element is so large that a front filter would be very expensive, so they support a cheaper/smaller rear filter.
2) The angle of view is so wide that even a large front filter would vignette the image.

Most lenses don't have threads for rear filters.

- Leigh

[macandal]

Most lenses don't have threads for rear filters.

- LeighThis is true for my lenses. Only one of them has threads in the rear.

[Drew Wiley]

Jerry - I think that recommendation of gel filters goes back to the early Pleistocene somewhere, prior to either high quality plano-parallel coated glass filters or humans learning to make fire to cook food. Gel filters are just about the worst option for sharpness today in my opinion (with the exception of thin cheap polyester substitute gels, or old-style heat-sandwiched Tiffens, which were basically gels cemented between glass).

[Jerry Bodine]

Jerry - I think that recommendation of gel filters goes back to the early Pleistocene somewhere, prior to either high quality plano-parallel coated glass filters or humans learning to make fire to cook food. Gel filters are just about the worst option for sharpness today in my opinion (with the exception of thin cheap polyester substitute gels, or old-style heat-sandwiched Tiffens, which were basically gels cemented between glass).

Drew, I appreciate your humor, but why do you suppose the folks at Sinar don't seem to think there's a problem with either gels or their Color Control glass filters or a combination of the two being used behind the lens? Or maybe I should ask them?

[Bob Salomon]

Drew, I appreciate your humor, but why do you suppose the folks at Sinar don't seem to think there's a problem with either gels or their Color Control glass filters or a combination of the two being used behind the lens? Or maybe I should ask them?

Anything behind the lens will shift the focus by about 1/3rd the thickness of the thing behind the lens. A common use of this was Hasselblad's inclusion of a glass plate in their Polaroid film holder that shifted the focus when Polaroid was shot so the image plane of Polaroid matved their roll film backs.

In Sinar's case they were not placing a thick glass filter behind their shutter but only a very thin gel filter. The image shift from a thin gel is negligible compared to the shift from a glass filter behind the lens. Especially in those old days when even thin glass filters were non readily available.

[Jerry Bodine]

In Sinar's case they were not placing a thick glass filter behind their shutter but only a very thin gel filter. The image shift from a thin gel is negligible compared to the shift from a glass filter behind the lens. Especially in those old days when even thin glass filters were non readily available.

Bob - If you check the link I posted above (scroll down to the subject of "Filters") you'll see that Sinar thinks it's OK to place their glass Color Control filters behind the lens, but I'm not sure if those filters are "thick." In any case it seems to me that focus shift in a view camera would be handled by refocusing on the gg with filters in place. Degeneration of optical quality is a different matter though.

[Drew Wiley]

First thing, Jerry... Those Sinar specs were probably related to their barrel-mounted shutter system, and do in fact date from a long time back, and am stating this
as someone who absolutely loves my vintage 60's Sinar Norma system. Second, and more important - I've actually tested all these various options. Focus shift is
no big deal - one simply tweaks the focus before the shot. And otherwise, gels are fragile and get dirty and scratched real fast. Nowadays they often cost more than good multicoated glass filters. But I have not tested the manner in which gels perform in the middle of process lenses, like my Apo Nikkors, where the little slot holder could only accommodate something very thin. These too date back to a different era and different kind of intended application. But lots of things Sinar has come up with have become dinosaurs, or were in fact badly designed in the first place (call me a heretic if you want, but even they didn't have a perfect batting average - I've redesigned any number of Sinar accessories which work far better than the original, and at a fraction of the price.

[Jerry Bodine]

... But lots of things Sinar has come up with have become dinosaurs, or were in fact badly designed in the first place ...

If I were to query Sinar about these subjects, I suspect they'd not provide much information, since they're heavily into digital nowadays and most of the dinosaurs who designed that stuff have likely retired by now. Sinar Norma(s), hear! hear!

[Drew Wiley]

Back to this subject ... At the height of Sinar's film days, they pushed their own relatively expensive thick resin filter system, which was conspicuously intended for
use in front of the lens, regardless of the shutter involved. I still have the catalogs.

[macandal]

Thanks gentlemen for all your answers.

As I read more and more about how photographers made their photos, more often than not I discover that they have used filters to affect the way, say the sky looks in the final picture. That was one of the main reasons of my initial inquiry into filters.

With that in mind, I wanted to put together a starter kit and I wanted to know which filters are good to have. I like shooting landscapes (urban and "wild"), and architecture as well as people (perhaps my main interest). Which filters should I get?

Thanks.

[Merg Ross]

Thanks gentlemen for all your answers.

As I read more and more about how photographers made their photos, more often than not I discover that they have used filters to affect the way, say the sky looks in the final picture. That was one of the main reasons of my initial inquiry into filters.

With that in mind, I wanted to put together a starter kit and I wanted to know which filters are good to have. I like shooting landscapes (urban and "wild"), and architecture as well as people (perhaps my main interest). Which filters should I get?

Thanks.

For black and white shooting of the subjects you mention, I would suggest an orange (my most often used), a green, a yellow, and perhaps a red.

[adelorenzo]

In this video, Clyde Butcher uses red filters behind his lens (http://youtu.be/PM19W5m5dQg?t=1m56s). If it works for his massive prints I would hazard a guess that it is probably OK.

[macandal]

For black and white shooting of the subjects you mention, I would suggest an orange (my most often used), a green, a yellow, and perhaps a red.Merg, thanks, I know these filters come in different "intensities", which are measured by numbers. Which ones should I get? I have three lenses. I would need a lens for each and the thread sizes are 67mm, 77mm, and 82mm. Would I also need a polarizer filter?

Thanks.

[Merg Ross]

Merg, thanks, I know these filters come in different "intensities", which are measured by numbers. Which ones should I get? I have three lenses. I would need a lens for each and the thread sizes are 67mm, 77mm, and 82mm. Would I also need a polarizer filter?

Thanks.

From memory, the ones I mentioned are: G,X0,K2,& A. You could purchase a set of the largest filter and use step-downs on each lens. A polarizer can be useful in architectural photography. Not sure about intensities, more often used for color photography (CC-#).

[Doremus Scudder]

Merg, thanks, I know these filters come in different "intensities", which are measured by numbers. Which ones should I get? I have three lenses. I would need a lens for each and the thread sizes are 67mm, 77mm, and 82mm. Would I also need a polarizer filter?

Thanks.

Let me augment Merg's recommendations a bit :)

The different colors and intensities of filters for black-and-white photography are indicated by numbers or letters that vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. The closest to a standard are the Wratten designations.

While there are lots of filters listed in manufacturers' catalogs, the ones most commonly available are the ones most used, i.e., yellow, green orange and red. Merg's designations, "G,X0,K2,& A" are older designations for orange, green, yellow and red, respectively. The letter designations along with the Wratten numbers for the same colors (with a bit more detail from the Wratten descriptions) are:

K1 (6) yellow improves contrast in B&W; absorbs UV and part of violet (this filter is used much less than the #8 which follows)
K2 (8) yellow improves contrast in B&W; absorbs UV and part of violet
G (15) orange greatly improves contrast in B&W; absorbs UV and part of blue-green
25A red strongest B&W contrast; absorbs UV and part of yellow; "night filter" also used as a color separation filter with #47 blue and #58 green
X1 (11) yellow-green natural rendition of skin and lips of female models
X2 (13) green Absorbs more red than X0, good for green trees

Unfortunately, other manufacturers (B+W and Heliopan among them) have different numbering systems. However, you can usually find the Wratten equivalents somewhere in their literature.

Do a quick search on Wratten filter designations and read the Wikipedia page, the Tiffen/Wratten pdf and a few others. Then search on using filters in black-and-white photography and read up a bit. Do your homework and in a few hours you'll have all you need to know to start using filters.

My recommendation for a filter kit (exactly like Merg's): Yellow (#8 or K2), orange (#15 or G), green (#11 or X1), and red (#25 or 25A) plus a polarizer. I use my polarizer as much as my colored filters. It is good for darkening skies a bit without sacrificing shadow detail. I also carry a blue or cyan filter to approximate ortho film, but that's a different bag of snakes.

As for sizes: get the largest size you need and then buy step-down rings for your other lenses. You can always buy a smaller set later if you decide you need it.

Hope this helps,


Doremus

[Bob Salomon]

Let me augment Merg's recommendations a bit :)

Unfortunately, other manufacturers (B+W and Heliopan among them) have different numbering systems. However, you can usually find the Wratten equivalents somewhere in their literature.

Doremus

Sorry but Heliopan always uses "Intrnational" number on their filters that are the same color as a Wrattan filter. Since Wrattan is/was a registered Trademark of Eastman Kodak Heliopan uses the number alone without stating that it is a Wrattan number. That means that all of the contrast filters that you listed in your reply that Heliopan makes have those very same numbers on the rim, the box and the literature.

For color warming and cooling Heliopan uses the Mired labeling system but wherever one of these is the same as a Wratten they also include that number as well.

[Merg Ross]

Let me augment Merg's recommendations a bit :)

Doremus

Good morning Doremus,

Thanks for the detailed clarification to my hasty post!

Seems that we concur on choices and step-down rings. Actually, I also use the green X1.

I check your homepage from time to time for new work. I hope that you are still photographing and just too busy to update. You have done some splendid work!

Take care.

Best,

Merg

[macandal]

Thanks Merg, Doremus.

Anyone have a set they would want to sell?

[Merg Ross]

Thanks Merg, Doremus.

Anyone have a set they would want to sell?

I wanted to be sure that you are familiar with the step-ring concept. You could acquire your choice of filters, or those suggested, all in the 82mm size and then use the appropriate step-down ring for each lens. The step-down rings can remain on the individual lenses and a screw cap can be attached for protection. This is the way I work, others may do it differently. I have standardized with 72mm filters and step-downs for my five lenses. Hope this helps.

[macandal]

I wanted to be sure that you are familiar with the step-ring concept. You could acquire your choice of filters, or those suggested, all in the 82mm size and then use the appropriate step-down ring for each lens. The step-down rings can remain on the individual lenses and a screw cap can be attached for protection. This is the way I work, others may do it differently. I have standardized with 72mm filters and step-downs for my five lenses. Hope this helps.Yes Merg. Got it. Thanks.

[Doremus Scudder]

Sorry but Heliopan always uses "International" number on their filters that are the same color as a Wrattan filter. Since Wrattan is/was a registered Trademark of Eastman Kodak Heliopan uses the number alone without stating that it is a Wrattan number. That means that all of the contrast filters that you listed in your reply that Heliopan makes have those very same numbers on the rim, the box and the literature.

For color warming and cooling Heliopan uses the Mired labeling system but wherever one of these is the same as a Wratten they also include that number as well.

Thanks Bob, I stand corrected. I answered a bit hastily and without checking; you caught my sloppiness.

Good to know that Heliopan uses the familiar (to me anyway) Wratten numbers.



Good morning Doremus,

Thanks for the detailed clarification to my hasty post!

Seems that we concur on choices and step-down rings. Actually, I also use the green X1.

I check your homepage from time to time for new work. I hope that you are still photographing and just too busy to update. You have done some splendid work!

Take care.

Best,

Merg

Hi Merg,

It's true, I haven't been updating my website lately; I've been just too busy these last years and processing new work for the web site is low on my priority list. I do, however, have a ton of new(er) work that I should get up. Maybe if I have a bit of time over the holidays and before the move into the new house and darkroom construction this summer...

Your reply is a much needed spur, thanks.

Hope all is well with you.

Best,

Doremus

[macandal]

Hello all. If you have a set you want to sell or know of someone who has a set for sale, please let them know that I'm looking for a set of filters (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?108884-WTB-B-amp-W-filters-(82mm)). Thanks.

[macandal]

So, as I said in my previous post, I put a WTB add in the classifieds of this board for the filter set I'm looking for and I've received a lot of looks but no responses. I searched the classifieds for people looking for a similar set and there is the post of another memeber looking for something similar to mine. He posted some years back and, like my add, had a lot of looks but no responses. Which leads me to believe that I will have the same fate. Does that mean that I'm going to have to shell out the big bucks and buy a new set? If so, which brand should I get? Thanks.

[Corran]

Just go on eBay or Amazon and buy them piecemeal. Filters are cheap on the used market. Keep your eyes open - or if you're the impatient type, yes shell out the cash. It's rare that a big set just to your specifications would come up, anyway.

I never sell filters myself because I always seem to need just that specific size/color/whatever the next time I'm shooting or I get a new lens...

[Bob Salomon]

So, as I said in my previous post, I put a WTB add in the classifieds of this board for the filter set I'm looking for and I've received a lot of looks but no responses. I searched the classifieds for people looking for a similar set and there is the post of another memeber looking for something similar to mine. He posted some years back and, like my add, had a lot of looks but no responses. Which leads me to believe that I will have the same fate. Does that mean that I'm going to have to shell out the big bucks and buy a new set? If so, which brand should I get? Thanks.

You are fortunate. You are surrounded by camera stores who stocks these. Looking Glass, Cameras West, Keeble & Shuchat, Calumet, Samy's. Go visit some of these and see what the choices are. Then buy which ever ones suit your needs the best.

[macandal]

You are fortunate. You are surrounded by camera stores who stocks these. Looking Glass, Cameras West, Keeble & Shuchat, Calumet, Samy's. Go visit some of these and see what the choices are. Then buy which ever ones suit your needs the best.Bob, fortunate, well, kind of. I went to Calumet on Saturday, and they did not have any ONE of the four (including the polarizer) filters I was looking for. Of course, that was only Calumet; I don't know if the others carry the filters I'm looking for.

[macandal]

Just go on eBay or Amazon and buy them piecemeal. Filters are cheap on the used market. Keep your eyes open - or if you're the impatient type, yes shell out the cash. It's rare that a big set just to your specifications would come up, anyway.

I never sell filters myself because I always seem to need just that specific size/color/whatever the next time I'm shooting or I get a new lens...Bryan, I guess the size I'm looking for so, on eBay or Amazon, the filters are quite expensive. Some are rather inexpensive (about $20 or so), but most of the other ones go for upwards of $50--usually more.

[Corran]

If you are looking for 82mm size, yes those are going to be expensive. I standardized on 67mm for most of my lenses for this very reason (along with weight). I'm assuming you have one of the 90mm f/4.5 variants with that size? Well regardless, if you take some time to shop you'll find lots of deals, but the polarizer will be the most expensive.

By "shelling out" I thought you meant a brand-new set from B+W or similar, which for the color filters and polarizer in 82mm size would likely be $400+. Personally, I've done just fine with standard Hoya, Marumi, and Nikkor filters. I don't use any exotic B+W filters though I'm looking for a polarizer from them now. I would suggest getting some cheap filters and upgrading as you find the need. I agree with what someone else said, to generally stay away from Tiffen, they seem to be the worst out of my filters in many ways, though I do have some of their plain color filters that work well enough.

Almost every filter I own simply came along with the ride with a lens purchase, even a nice Hoya MC 82mm Polarizer that I use on occasion.

Good luck.

[Kirk Gittings]

For black and white shooting of the subjects you mention, I would suggest an orange (my most often used), a green, a yellow, and perhaps a red.

yep!

BTW back in the day the belief was that there was less risk of flair if you mounted filters behind the lens. At least that was what I read in Picker I think.....I did that for many years (like 20) with gels. But as I am clumsy and always getting spoonge on gel filters and having to toss them I went over to good glass on the front. Absolutely NO difference as far as I can tell-20 years one way and like 15 the other.

Worry about how you use them in terms of image tone and proper exposure-not where you put the dang things.

[macandal]

If you are looking for 82mm size, yes those are going to be expensive. I standardized on 67mm for most of my lenses for this very reason (along with weight). I'm assuming you have one of the 90mm f/4.5 variants with that size? Well regardless, if you take some time to shop you'll find lots of deals, but the polarizer will be the most expensive.

By "shelling out" I thought you meant a brand-new set from B+W or similar, which for the color filters and polarizer in 82mm size would likely be $400+. Personally, I've done just fine with standard Hoya, Marumi, and Nikkor filters. I don't use any exotic B+W filters though I'm looking for a polarizer from them now. I would suggest getting some cheap filters and upgrading as you find the need. I agree with what someone else said, to generally stay away from Tiffen, they seem to be the worst out of my filters in many ways, though I do have some of their plain color filters that work well enough.

Almost every filter I own simply came along with the ride with a lens purchase, even a nice Hoya MC 82mm Polarizer that I use on occasion.

Good luck.Yeah, I got a monster fujinon 90mm. I thought my 300 was big, but it's not as big as the 90.

And yeah, I did mean buy new filters, but that is way too expensive. The polarizer is not as essential in my humble opinion as the other filters are so I'm primarily looking for my red, green, yellow, and orange filters.

[Karl A]

Check Freestyle for 82 mm Hoya filters, they seemed pretty reasonable last time I checked.

Also check used options at B&H, KEH, etc.

A possible approach would be to get a yellow filter to start with, since that is the most common one, and then add more as you can afford them

Getting good quality glass to put in front of your good quality glass isn't a cheap proposition unfortunately...

[macandal]

Is the Orange 15/G filter sometimes called "yellow"? Or is the yellow #15 filter a different filter altogether? Thanks.

[cowanw]

Have a look through this.
http://www.filterfind.net/Home.html
and here;don't go to the english site
http://www.heliopan.de/produkte/schwarz-weiss-filter/
and here; half way down
https://www.schneideroptics.com/pdfs/filters/BWHandbookFull.pdf

[Michael Graves]

Series IX filters are 82mm, if I'm not mistaken. In any case, you can get a S-IX to 82mm adapter. Such a setup will allow you to buy an adapter and use the same filters on other lenses of different sizes.

[NancyP]

Does anyone use the 4" x 4" systems?

[Roger Thoms]

Have a look through this.
http://www.filterfind.net/Home.html
and here;don't go to the english site
http://www.heliopan.de/produkte/schwarz-weiss-filter/
and here; half way down
https://www.schneideroptics.com/pdfs/filters/BWHandbookFull.pdf

The first link, filter find... is local to the Bay Area. The guy who owns filterfind buy a lot of his stock from camera stores that are closing and usually has good prices. He also does the local photo shows so you can deal in person if you prefer. You can find the schedule of upcoming shows on his website. I've bought quite a few filters from him over the years both online and in person and have always been pleased.

Roger

[macandal]

The first link, filter find... is local to the Bay Area. The guy who owns filterfind buy a lot of his stock from camera stores that are closing and usually has good prices. He also does the local photo shows so you can deal in person if you prefer. You can find the schedule of upcoming shows on his website. I've bought quite a few filters from him over the years both online and in person and have always been pleased.

RogerRoger, yes, I met him. Tim, I believe, is his name. Some of his filters, and this may be because I need 82mm filters, are more expensive, so that's why I decided to look elsewhere. I just got a yellow filter for $24. One down, three (including the polarizer) to go. I will shoot an email to him regarding my remaining filters and see what he can do for me.

[Professional]

Does anyone use the 4" x 4" systems?

For digital i use this system as NDs, but i started to buy B&W filters in that size system as well, 4x4 translates to 100mm, so i can be on safe side all the time for different lenses threads [58-95m], and in the other hand, i can use it for digital as well when needed, and it is cheaper than going for threaded 77-95mm filters.

[Jim Andrada]

The filters I use most often are a couple of whopping ND's. A 10 stopper that's just great for slowing down my old barrel lenses enough to get reasonably long times with today's fast films and a 6 stopper that's essential to be able to use my Black Magic Cinema video cam in Arizona daylight. After that - the standard 4 plus a polarizer. I use the Lee filters in one of the the holders that clamps on the lens by virtue of a large rubber band, just hold the 10 stopper in front of a lens, and put the 6 stopper in a matte box/ I have a compendium shade for my Linhofs and it has a place for gel filters.

[macandal]

I have a question for you. In the past weeks I've been getting the filters I need with a lot of success (and patience). So much so that, the only one I have to get now is the red filter. But yesterday I was trying all the filters on my lens and realized that the green one has no threads!!! What?! Why would a filter have no thread? How is one supposed to screw it on the lens? I got this filter through ebay and there was no mention of its being thread-less. Am I missing something here (besides the threads) about this particular type of filter? Thanks.

[cowanw]

Some filter systems have drop in filters that pair with the threaded adaptor. " series" filters were like this as well as a Hasselblad wide angle lens

[macandal]

Some filter systems have drop in filters that pair with the threaded adaptor. " series" filters were like this as well as a Hasselblad wide angle lensSo, is there a way to make it work with my threaded lens or am SOL?

Thanks.

[Bob Salomon]

So, is there a way to make it work with my threaded lens or am SOL?

Thanks.

You can try to find a series adapter for the series size filter that you bought. Your filter may be marked with it's size. Series filters are Series IV, V, VI, VII, VIII, 93. so look for those markings or 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 on the rim. Then your lens can not be larger in diameter then the series adapter for the size filter that you bought.

Or you can just go to one of the good camera stores in SF area, Adolph Gasser, Bear Images, Looking Glass, Keeble & Shuchat, Calumet and bring them your lens and filter. They may have an old adapter that would help you.

[macandal]

You can try to find a series adapter for the series size filter that you bought. Your filter may be marked with it's size. Series filters are Series IV, V, VI, VII, VIII, 93. so look for those markings or 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 on the rim. Then your lens can not be larger in diameter then the series adapter for the size filter that you bought.

Or you can just go to one of the good camera stores in SF area, Adolph Gasser, Bear Images, Looking Glass, Keeble & Shuchat, Calumet and bring them your lens and filter. They may have an old adapter that would help you.So I guess mine has to be IX, because, besides that number, there is only G1(X1) which is the type (i.e., "green") of filter it is.

So my idea was to buy all my filters in 82mm size and then buy step down (up?) rings for my 67mm and 77mm lenses. How does this affect my plan?

Also, should I have known this before buying it or was the seller responsible for letting potential buyers know of this particular characteristic when listing the item? I'm asking because if it is too much trouble I may just ask for my money back. (By the way, I paid $28 total, item + s&h.)

Thank you.

[Bob Salomon]

So I guess mine has to be IX, because, besides that number, there is only G1(X1) which is the type (i.e., "green") of filter it is.

So my idea was to buy all my filters in 82mm size and then buy step down (up?) rings for my 67mm and 77mm lenses. How does this affect my plan?

Also, should I have known this before buying it or was the seller responsible for letting potential buyers know of this particular characteristic when listing the item? I'm asking because if it is too much trouble I may just ask for my money back. (By the way, I paid $28 total, item + s&h.)

Thank you.

Mario,

Go check with the camera stores I mentioned. At the price that you paid you probably could of saved a lot of money by just looking through their used filters and buying one of those.

[macandal]

Mario,

Go check with the camera stores I mentioned. At the price that you paid you probably could of saved a lot of money by just looking through their used filters and buying one of those.Really? So I overpaid? I thought I got a bargain.

Calumet didn't have any filters for the size I was looking for (82mm). I will check the other stores.

[Bob Salomon]

Really? So I overpaid? I thought I got a bargain.

Calumet didn't have any filters for the size I was looking for (82mm). I will check the other stores.

The way to find the deals on used filters is to walk into the store and go through their junk filter bins (what is used junk to them is what you want). Calling or email could drive up the price as would internet shopping.

[macandal]

The way to find the deals on used filters is to walk into the store and go through their junk filter bins (what is used junk to them is what you want). Calling or email could drive up the price as would internet shopping.I did walk through the Calumet store here in SF and looked through their so-called junk. Not too much in the bargain department. Besides not finding 82mm filters, other sizes were around $25 or so. I'll try the other places. Thanks.

[VictoriaPerelet]

With film sometimes you just have no choice but to use certain filters behind the lens. Not matter of expense.

Digital eliminates color correction and nd grads in most situation, so for digital things are easier (well IR cut off sometimes causes unique problems...)

[Bob Salomon]

I did walk through the Calumet store here in SF and looked through their so-called junk. Not too much in the bargain department. Besides not finding 82mm filters, other sizes were around $25 or so. I'll try the other places. Thanks.

You will be best looking in stores that have large inventories of used equipment. That is usually not a Calumet.

[macandal]

I got the red filter at Keeble. I got a step down (or is it up?) ring, 67 to 82, at Looking Glass. Bear Images didn't have anything. Haven't checked with Gasser.

I would have all the filters I need if the green had threads. I think I'll use tape and see how that works for the time being. However, if anyone is selling a green, let me know.