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the smiling gecko
1-Nov-2013, 19:24
hello all,

this is my first foray into x-ray film and...

...wondering what would be a workable day light iso for 8x10 Fuji Super HR-T film.

also wondering if HC-110 would be good to soup it in and which dilution.

did some research but found a variety of possible solutions, but am at a loss to go with which one(s).

would appreciate some insight from someone who has experience with this film.


breathe, relax and enjoy.
laugh more, smile more...i do every time i go by a mirror. 😄

thank you.
the smiling gecko, aka kenneth

HT Finley
1-Nov-2013, 19:47
My testing has shown different results than other posts on the matter. I am seeing an ASA of 40-50 at MOST, developing in Willi Beutlers (a simple formula) at 1:1:9 for 6 mins 65 degrees F. I attributhe the faster claims are from people who might not know what their shutter speeds truly are, or their meter for that matter. I keep my euqipment calibrated, because I do it myself and KNOW I'm running accurate.

the smiling gecko
1-Nov-2013, 20:14
thank you for the explanation and clarification.

i think it is time for ME to do some resting of my own��...
...starting tomorrow morning.

is 'wllie beutlers' dilution an HC-110 variety?

again, thank you.

t.s.g.

HT Finley
1-Nov-2013, 20:20
personally I think HC110 will be a contrast problem. Beutlers is a simple metol-sulfite, carbonate mixture. A compensating developer formulated for slower speed films.

the smiling gecko
1-Nov-2013, 21:13
aha, thank you for the heads-up about HC-110.

after some more thread/posting browsing i think i will give rodinal 1:50.

thanks again,
t.g.s.

HT Finley
1-Nov-2013, 21:28
Oh, another Rodinal guy. OK. You might search previous threads on LFF discussing the very topic you opened.

the smiling gecko
1-Nov-2013, 21:56
not really "another Rodinal guy"...this will be by first time to try it.

as i previously mentioned, i did research threads on this very topic...on LFF...and APUG...and RFF...and photo.net...and numerous links via my google search.

the purpose of my post was to find someone with experience with the specific film i am trying to educate myself about.

i think i got muddled and overloaded and distracted by the wide range of responses regarding x-ray film of all stripes processed in many different developers.

in other words, i have "done my homework".

the goal of my post was to seek meaningful, constructive, hands-on experience, and advice regarding a specific film.

except for your last response, i did appreciate your responses.

t.s.g

joselsgil
1-Nov-2013, 22:06
I have used this x-ray film and exposed it at an ISO of 80. Unfortunately, I developed the film under very cold conditions and my exposures were hit and miss. Carol Miller at Flutot's Camera Repair, checked my old Betax 4 shutter and gave the true shutter speeds, but I think that the shutter's film speeds are bouncing around and not consistent.
I tray developed the film using PMK pyro developer.

HT Finley
1-Nov-2013, 22:26
Your speeds are probably not "bouncing around", but probably not entirely accurate, either. I'm also using a Betax 4 that I CLA's myself. The springs have gone weak and I set mine up to sacrifice 1/50 in favor of accuracy on the 4 lower ones. I think pyro is a good choice, but I opted for Beutler's, for my own reasons. The other threads on the subject are jam full of Rodinal fanboys, but that's OK. If it works for them, then I'm glad for them.
I've done my homework too, to the point of exquisite tedium. I chose a complete other direction. Beutler's is a fine developer.

the smiling gecko
1-Nov-2013, 22:26
thank you for sharing your experiences.

in my coming tests i will try 40 iso and 80 iso.
i have heard the praises of PMK pyro developer and will need to give it a try...possibly dektol as well.

i really appreciate the help i am recieviing on my intro to 8x10 x-ray film.
hopefully it will save me some $$$ on film and time in the darkroom.

t.g.s.

the smiling gecko
1-Nov-2013, 22:29
...and i will give beutler's developer as well. off to google to see where it can be purchased.

t.s.g.

HT Finley
1-Nov-2013, 22:31
Forget Dektol, and D-76. The hardest thing about this X-Ray film deal is to achieve shadow detail. Dektol and D-76 are just too contrasty. It's either highlights or shadows, but not both, with these 2 formulas. Getting shadow detail is the biggest fight. So far my vote is Pyro (I've never used, but know), and Beutler's. Or you can play the Rodinal 1:100 game. I don't go there myself. I don't believe in "stand development".

HT Finley
1-Nov-2013, 22:33
Go on fleabay and buy a little bottle of metol, a plastic bag of sulfite. Buy some baking soda and cook it in a pot till its carbonate. You'll need some Ohaus triple beams.

the smiling gecko
1-Nov-2013, 22:34
seems i need to order the ingredients for making this beutler' soup (ca 1936) from photographers formulary...

...or off ebay and an ohaus triple beam (cool site, they have).

t.s.g.

HT Finley
1-Nov-2013, 22:40
No you don't You can buy all that stuff on ebay, cheap and easy. I don't use PF. They charge 20 dollars minimum to ship me a feather.

HT Finley
1-Nov-2013, 22:45
I tell you why I like Beutlers particularly. It's good, invented for the purpose, and can mix up some D-23 with the exact same ingredients for the other films.

ScottPhotoCo
1-Nov-2013, 23:30
I'm using the Kodak mammography film and have been using Rodinol 1+100 quite successfully.

Tim
www.ScottPhoto.co

the smiling gecko
2-Nov-2013, 09:47
another question/clarification: x-ray film has no loading indication notch because...both sides are coated with emulsion -
right?

t.s.g.

HT Finley
2-Nov-2013, 10:54
another question/clarification: x-ray film has no loading indication notch because...both sides are coated with emulsion -
right?

t.s.g.

correct, GL

Ari
2-Nov-2013, 11:08
FWIW, I use the same Fuji X-ray film; I shoot it at ISO 320 and develop it in HC-110 dilution H (1:63) for 10 minutes at 21˚C.
I use it as test film, so I haven't refined the process like many have here, but the results have always been quite satisfactory.

the smiling gecko
2-Nov-2013, 18:04
thanks everyone!!!

got the fuji x-ray loaded up and will try to get out after work and try it out.

not sure which developer to try first...only have d-76 and hc-110 on hand right now...nearest photo shop is about 60 miles
away..."hello phone/internet order" : - )

t.s.g.

HT Finley
2-Nov-2013, 18:46
Use the D-76 1:3, I forgot how long. It'll be too contrasty and no shado detail, but at least you can see SOMETHING. Won't make for much of a print, but at least you'll be playing, which is what you're itching to do.

the smiling gecko
3-Nov-2013, 07:22
sounds good...

thanks again,
t.s.g.