Looking for developer...

[John Kasaian]

...for Adox Ortho 25. Any suggestions?

[Leigh]

Is the film in date (fresh)?

The Massive Development Chart has listings for Adox Pan 25, but not Ortho.
MDC: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

What does the manufacturer recommend?

Agfa lists 4 minutes (1:25) or 8 minutes (1:50) for Rodinal with Rollei Ortho 25, which I think is the same film.

You can always try Diafine. Two-part with five minutes in each, regardless of temperature.

- Leigh

[John Kasaian]

I've limited experience with ortho films, mostly the old Freestyle stuff souped in diluted paper developer to bring out the mid tones. Adox Ortho is supposed to be different (it certainly is faster!) Which is why I asked here.

[John Kasaian]

I checked Freestyle's chart---it looks like either D-76 stock for 5.5 minutes or Rodinal 1+50 for 5 minutes.
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/film-development-chart#chart

[bob carnie]

FWIW

John I have used the Rollie ortho 25 and am purchasing a whole bunch of Ilford ortho 25

I plan to use HC 110 not sure of the dilution .. this developer is a very good technical developer with many applications.

Bob



I've limited experience with ortho films, mostly the old Freestyle stuff souped in diluted paper developer to bring out the mid tones. Adox Ortho is supposed to be different (it certainly is faster!) Which is why I asked here.

[Regular Rod]

...for Adox Ortho 25. Any suggestions?

What developers do you have already?

RR

[Taija71A]

...for Adox Ortho 25. Any suggestions?

____

John, I don't believe... That you previously mentioned which 'Format' you are shooting with?
Perhaps, some other Forum Members can assist you further... If they were aware of this more 'specific' information?

FWIW... I am pretty sure that you have seen the following 'general' Adox Information -- But just in case...
__

http://www.adox.de/english/ADOX%20Films/Art/ADOX_Films/ORTHO25/Ortho25.html

Available as 35mm, 120 and Sheetfilm.

The emulsions differ slightly between 35mm and the sheet films.
Development times are not always 100% identical. We recommend development by inspection.

Development starting times ORTHO 25 (35mm film):


Rollei RLC developer: 8-9 Minutes
ADOX APH09 1+40: 4-6 Minutes
ADOX ATM49 Stock solution: 6 Minutes
Rodinal 1+50: 4-6 Minutes
D76 Stock solution: 5-6 Minutes
Xtol Stock solution: 5-6 Minutes

____

http://www.adox.de/english/ADOLUX/ADOLUX/Film_Developer.html

ATOMAL 49 - Ultrafinegrain- equalizing developer to make 2x1 Liter Stock Solution (2 separate mixings).
Universal developer for all types of B/W materials with extremely good speed utilization of all film types. Very good to push process films.
Due to its superior equalizing capacity it can also process hard working film types like ADOX ORTHO 25 yielding negatives which can be printed on a grade 2 paper.
Powder bags to make 2x1 Liter of stock solution. Can be diluted to be used as a one shot developer 1+1 or 1+2.
Depending on dilution to process up to 20 films.

____

Regards,

-Tim.
________

[John Kasaian]

What developers do you have already?
Right now all I have D-76 and Dektol.

RR

[John Kasaian]

____

John, I don't believe... That you previously mentioned which 'Format' you are shooting with?
Perhaps, some other Forum Members can assist you further... If they were aware of this more 'specific' information?

FWIW... I am pretty sure that you have seen the following 'general' Adox Information -- But just in case...
__

http://www.adox.de/english/ADOX%20Films/Art/ADOX_Films/ORTHO25/Ortho25.html

Available as 35mm, 120 and Sheetfilm.

The emulsions differ slightly between 35mm and the sheet films.
Development times are not always 100% identical. We recommend development by inspection.

Development starting times ORTHO 25 (35mm film):


Rollei RLC developer: 8-9 Minutes
ADOX APH09 1+40: 4-6 Minutes
ADOX ATM49 Stock solution: 6 Minutes
Rodinal 1+50: 4-6 Minutes
D76 Stock solution: 5-6 Minutes
Xtol Stock solution: 5-6 Minutes

____

http://www.adox.de/english/ADOLUX/ADOLUX/Film_Developer.html

ATOMAL 49 - Ultrafinegrain- equalizing developer to make 2x1 Liter Stock Solution (2 separate mixings).
Universal developer for all types of B/W materials with extremely good speed utilization of all film types. Very good to push process films.
Due to its superior equalizing capacity it can also process hard working film types like ADOX ORTHO 25 yielding negatives which can be printed on a grade 2 paper.
Powder bags to make 2x1 Liter of stock solution. Can be diluted to be used as a one shot developer 1+1 or 1+2.
Depending on dilution to process up to 20 films.

____

Regards,

-Tim.
________

8x10.
Thank for the link! I don't know if the Freestyle data applies to the sheet film or 135 version of the film. Either way I'll use D-76 (since that's what I have on hand) and develop by inspection. on second thought, I'll dilute some dektol instead

[Taija71A]

8x10.

Thank for the link! I don't know if the Freestyle data applies to the sheet film or 135 version of the film. Either way I'll use D-76 (since that's what I have on hand) and develop by inspection. on second thought, I'll dilute some dektol instead
___

Good Stuff! Re: (8x10)... :)

NP John. You of course... Are more than welcome!
Sorry, that I couldn't be of any other further assistance to you...
________

[Karl A]

I recently developed some sheets of Efke 25 ORT which is the same film as far as I know. I did it in D-76 stock under red safelight. They recommend 6 minutes, but that seemed overdeveloped to me. So next time I will pull it earlier. Your results may vary. But since it is ortho you can develop by inspection under red safelighting. I'm not sure if amber works.

[tautatis]

...for Adox Ortho 25. Any suggestions?

John,

A few weeks ago I developed a few of my Adox Ortho 25 using divided Pyrocat-HD. I got great negatives, a bit contrasty, but very nice when printed. For solution A I had 400mls of water with 20mls of stock A + 4 drops of Photoflo. Similarly, I had 400mls of water with 20mls of stock B. I developed for 8 minutes for each solution. I think I would have reduced the contrast if I had developed them at 6 or7 minutes. I also had a heater blowing at my unicolor to keep the temp at a constant 80F degrees. In any case, I think you could adjust accordingly and get very excellent negatives as my last two negatives (I had 6 and the Unicolor drum takes 4 at a time) I tweaked a bit on developing times and the heater's temp and they came out perfect!