SUBLIMATION HEAT PRESS MACHINES for dry mount??

[Robert Bicknell]

I'm getting back in to shooting with my 4x5 after a few years of letting it collect dust. I've come to the realization that one of the reasons I quit using the 4x5 was that I don't have a good method of mounting my prints. Looking at the results on the monitor just isnt't the same. In the past several weeks I've tried spray mounting and wet mounting with PVA and they both work but not very satisfactorily. I've decided that I would like to go to dry mounting. The issue is that the dry mount presses are relatively expensive and heavy, so that shipping often is a significant portion of the cost. In searching though eBay I have come across sublimation heat press machines such as this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/16X20-SUBLIMATION-DIGITAL-HEAT-PRESS-MACHINE-TRANSFER-/170853230280?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c7a566c8

This are used for T-shirt image transfers. Could these be used for dry mounting??

Thanks,

Bob

[Steve Pitchford]

Robert,
I used to have a 16 X 20 heat dry mount machine. When I moved to this house, 19 years ago, with no dark room I had to give away a lot of equipment including the press. There was no eBay back then. I have recently been in my garage looking for mounted prints. To my suprise many prints had popped free from the mount boards, usually with the Seal or Kodak mount tissue still attached to the prints. That doesn't meet archival requirements. I always used quality materials. Since I live in Arizona part of the problem may be attibuted to heat. So I'm looking for a better process too.

Steve, Happy Trails

[Kevin Crisp]

You can buy as new dry mounting presses on Craigslist these days for less than 20% of retail. Locally there is a Jumbo 150 (which can mount 16X20's without much trouble) for $50. It will still be heavy, but if you pick it up no postage.

[Robert Bicknell]

Kevin:

I've been looking on ebay and Craigslist. Just not much availability here in Oregon. Might be able to find one in Portand, but that is still a two hour drive away. That is why I was looking at the heat presses designed for T-shirt transfers.

[ROL]

It isn't obvious to me how these "sublimation" machines differ functionally from Seal''s.

To me, nothing beats a conventionally presented dry mounted and windowed fine art print. Fine prints thusly presented are an aesthetic wonder to behold (held). These days, it seems you've made somewhat of a courageous decision if you choose to follow through with dry mounting your work. FWIW, none of my dry mounted prints have ever become separated from their mounts (with the brief exception of the use of heat release tissues), including novice RC pieces done over 30 years ago. That may be more an issue of using good "unexpired" (i.e., not dried out) mounting tissue, knowing your equipment, obtaining optimum heat and pressure, and weighting sufficiently during cooling ...but I could go on. Oh, that's right – I already have (http://www.rangeoflightphotography.com/pages/Fine%20Art%20Print%20Presentation).

[Drew Wiley]

If your prints popped off the substrate, you never dry-mounted them correctly to begin with. Wet mounting also requires certain skill and the right kind of glue (not
something you picked up at the hardware store or average art store!). If you happen to get accustomed to using spray adhesive, all your archival issues will automatically be solved, because you won't live long enough to see the long-term result !!! Either that, or your brain will be fried with all those gluesniffer fumes.
Just get a decent Seal press, the CORRECT tissue for your application and climate, and read up on the proper steps to the procedure. Otherwise, you'll just keep
going around in circles, with nothing working reliably.

[Robert Bicknell]

ROL:

From what I can see the differences are:
1) Digital temperature control
2) Digital timing control
3) ~$1000 dollars cheaper for a new one.

The similarities are:
The both heat up a heavy metal plate to either melt the dry transfer image or dry mount tissue.


Am I missing something? BTW, very nice write-up on you web site.

Bob

[ROL]

Thanks. The press seems a little small for me, but certainly serviceable for doing at least up to 20x24, in sections. Go for it and let us know how it works out.

[Neal Chaves]

Does anyone know of an available replacement for the old Seal MT5? These new low temperature tissues like Color Mount are difficult to work with and don't make a bond anywhere near as secure as MT5. Old stocks of MT5 are not the answer. I tried some and it had gone bad.

[Mark_S]

Robert

Craigslist and patience are your friends. I was in a similar boat, and eventually watching craigslist I found a Seal 550 press (26"x34"), in like new condition, which I picked up for $150. Actually to be precise, I needed help picking it up - it is quite a heavy beast.

From Corvallis, I assume that you wouldn't mind driving to a bigger city and picking one up in Eugene, Salem or even Portland, so I would imagine that it won't take too long before you find a good dry-mount press for a reasonable price. Once you get a good press, it will last forever, so the 2 hr drive to Portland should not be that big of a deal....

[Drew Wiley]

Colormount is not a low temp adhesive. MT5 melts around 250F, Colormount around 210F (depending on the "dwell" time, of course). Lo-temp would be something
like removable Archival Mount, which melts around 150F. Parts for old Seal presses are routinely available from pro framing wholesalers. Or you could just contact
the mfg. For small project you could try an ordinary household iron, preferably teflon-coated. But you do need to be able to adjust the temperature and keep it steady from one step of the procedure to the next, which is difficult to do with something like an iron.

[patrickth]

I have a Commercial Seal 210. Listed it twice on Craigslist with no interest. If you are interested, I am open to talks. I can even bring it down to Corvallis since I am retired. Its in excellent condition with extras.