Multiple Exposures

[dperez]

I searched for a multiple exposures thread, but had no luck, so here goes....

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/9735609624_59d5ef9d3c_b.jpg
[View Large (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/9735609624_0b709e1ed2_o.jpg)]

Orange Circle, Orange, CA
Ebony RW810, 300mm f/5.6 Rodenstock Apo-Sironar-N, Arista .EDU Ultra 100 8x10, Processed in a unicolor drum, Pyrocat HD 1:1:100, Bronze toned in CS4.

This is a double exposure. The first exposure was around 30 minutes with a ten stop filter, the second exposure was 1/15 without any filtration. If I were to do this again, I would shorten the first exposure substantially, maybe down to 2-3 minutes.

-DP

[dperez]

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6100/6252475371_ee1a254a6e_b.jpg
[View Large (http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6100/6252475371_b3bc35b401_o.jpg)]

Santa Ana, CA
4x5 Arca-Swiss, 150mm Schneider lens, Kodak Portra 400.
Double exposure. f/16 @ 15 seconds just after sunset, then roughly 2 minutes an hour after sunset. I kept the dark cloth over the back to make sure no light made it into the dark slide slot of the film holder.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2791/5722834168_a68b424cdf_b.jpg
[View Large (http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2791/5722834168_22336906f1_o.jpg)]

California State Polytechnic University, Pomona
4x5 Arca-Swiss, 90mm Schneider Symmar-S f/8 lens, Fuji Provia 100F QL.

Another double exposure. I made one exposure just after sunset in order to capture the color in the sky, then I waited for the sky to darken and for the lights to turn on and made a second two minute exposure to get the building sides lit up.

-DP

[Vaughn]

Long exposures -- started and stopped exposures due to cars driving by, and for a focus shift.

Movie Tent, ca1993
Yosemite Valley
5x7 contact print.

[VictoriaPerelet]

I do not remember if I posted this, technically shutter was opened all the time - 15min, but I did changed filtering after 5min exposure.

http://victoriasphoto.com/Notes/long_exposure/Bicycle_15mins_sm.jpg

It was windy bright day, 1:30pm, and waves been pretty high:)


Sinar f2, 72mm xl lens. Filtering:

Schneider #4b center filter (2 stops). Cokin X-Pro 130mm x121 ND soft grad for 1st 5mins of exposure (-2 stops on the sky).

Behind the lens in Xenophone holder - 2 4x4" gel filters - Kodak #96 (ND 3.0 - 10 stops!) and Kodak #21 Orange (2 stops).

Victoria

[bobwysiwyg]

Victoria, what a wonderful image! VERY nice!

[JeRuFo]

Santa Ana, CA
4x5 Arca-Swiss, 150mm Schneider lens, Kodak Portra 400.
Double exposure. f/16 @ 15 seconds just after sunset, then roughly 2 minutes an hour after sunset. I kept the dark cloth over the back to make sure no light made it into the dark slide slot of the film holder.


California State Polytechnic University, Pomona
4x5 Arca-Swiss, 90mm Schneider Symmar-S f/8 lens, Fuji Provia 100F QL.

Another double exposure. I made one exposure just after sunset in order to capture the color in the sky, then I waited for the sky to darken and for the lights to turn on and made a second two minute exposure to get the building sides lit up.

-DP

Great work. I am experimenting with the same technique in black and white at the moment. The colors held up great in your shots. I didn't want to risk it with color film, but seeing your results I may give it a go.

[Peter Mounier]

dperez
You nailed that exposure of Cal Poly! Really nice. You must have been thrilled with the result.

[Peter Mounier]

[QUOTE=VictoriaPerelet;1064795]I do not remember if I posted this, technically shutter was opened all the time - 15min, but I did changed filtering after 5min exposure.

http://victoriasphoto.com/Notes/long_exposure/Bicycle_15mins_sm.jpg

It was windy bright day, 1:30pm, and waves been pretty high:)

Wow! I love this shot. I'd say it was pretty brave of you to change filers in the middle of an exposure since any movement at all would result in a double exposure/ghost image.

[Glass Key Photo]

Here is a multiple exposure I did many, many years ago. Three exposures: one for the background, one for the body of the projector, and the third for the light coming from the projector. Shot on Kodak E100G with tungsten and daylight light sources. I love shooting E-6 LF!103461

[Jim Cole]

Here is a multiple exposure I did many, many years ago. Three exposures: one for the background, one for the body of the projector, and the third for the light coming from the projector. Shot on Kodak E100G with tungsten and daylight light sources. I love shooting E-6 LF!103461

That worked beautifully.

[IanG]

Quite a different technique

http://lostlabours.co.uk/Uploads/elderflowers_sm.jpg

This is best described as a fragmented exposure (a fraggie) a technique pioneered by John Blakemore in the UK in the 70's or 80's. The whole exposure is made up of multiple exposures of varying lengths.

This was a long exposure using a green filter on quite a windy spring day, the total exposure was a few seconds at f22 or maybe f32 but I made that up with a number of shorter exposures some at 1/15. others slower down to about 1/2. It gives images that are quite different to the continuous blur a single long exposure would give in areas of movement.

Ian

[jcoldslabs]

Quite a different technique.

This had not occurred to me before. I suppose this approach is best suited to a self-cocking shutter to avoid any camera movement from manual re-cocking. My big Ilex No. 5 is self-cocking, so maybe I'll give it a try. Although, on a windy day like that keeping my old rickety 8x10 from moving between exposures--not the shutter--would be the problem.

Jonathan

[jnantz]

5 exposures at 1/50th

the camera i have only has a 1/50th shutter speed and a T speed ..

[IanG]

This had not occurred to me before. I suppose this approach is best suited to a self-cocking shutter to avoid any camera movement from manual re-cocking. My big Ilex No. 5 is self-cocking, so maybe I'll give it a try. Although, on a windy day like that keeping my old rickety 8x10 from moving between exposures--not the shutter--would be the problem.

Jonathan

It's not something I do very often but it's always been with a Copal #0 and a Sironar or Grandagon. It takes very little to recock the shutters.

Ian

[jcoldslabs]

Ian,

I suppose that's true. Lately I've been shooting with older Compurs and the force required to cock those would fractionally vibrate the camera out of alignment for the next shot, but my newer Copals require much less effort to reset.

J.