Mentor reflex camera

[Ramiro Elena]

I just got me a very basic model of a Mentor camera for which I have a few questions.
It has a focal plane shutter like in older Speed Graphic models.
- Some help on how they operate would be greatly appreciated. Right now, I can only get it to open with one trigger and then (slowly) close it with a second trigger. I know you're supposed to combine two sets of numbers to achieve a certain shutter speed.

- Unlike other Mentor models I have seen, this one doesn't have a focussing mechanism. This is achieved with a rack and pignion lens. Is there a way to figure out which model it is?
- It 9x12cm format.
- Can I find film and holders for this?
- Is it better to just mod it for newer film holders?

101490

[mjr]

I don´t know this specific camera, but you can find 9x12 film at foto r3 (at least fomapan 100 classic) http://www.foto-r3.com/pelicula-byn/pelicula-plana/-placas
Macodirect.de also has many other brands in this size:
http://www.macodirect.de/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=9x12&osCsid=cc1b98481a398db5e7a5b747c515e8ea&x=0&y=0
I´ve seen this cameras in the auction site eventually, so you might find holders for yours.
They look very well made cameras, but need specific holders. That´s mainly why I got myself a graflex RB with a graflock back.
You could probably attach one of these backs to your camera, if your camera back is big enough, but you should find the film plane that matches the ground glass image in the Mentor...
Good luck with it.

[Steven Tribe]

Lots of previous threads - back a few years, though.

Some people have working focal plane shutters, most (including me) don't.
A very difficult technical exercise to adjust/repair. Personally, I think they are basically worn out. There are torsion springs in the axels.
Lots of variation in the models and sizes. There will be a serial number stamped on the body. Viewing hood gives a fantastic image. Possible to use with just the mirror lift and ordinary shutter.

[Ramiro Elena]

So, regular film... I bet I can find holders for it. I don't know if I want to though. I did try holding a Graphic back to it but like you say, they body is too small and the opening will not match.
I basically got it for the lens, the Anticomar 125mm f2.9 which is weirdly mounted on a rack and pinion mechanism.

The focal plane shutter seems nice and tight. It fires up nicely on T. I just don't know how to switch to shutter speed times.
It seems like the focusing mechanism in the body was removed. I can see hole around the front frame. Serial number 47188.

[Steven Tribe]

Sounds like a modification to make a fast press camera. Speaking from memory, this a fairly late pre-war model.
Plate holders for Mentor are quite distinct and I'll post a photo tomorrow if there isn't one in the previous thread.
Mirror is usually worth replacing.

[rjmeyer314]

The basic question is does it have one shutter curtain or two opposing curtains. The one shutter curtain cameras (like most of the Graflexes) are fairly robust, and most can be made to work (at least the Graflexes I've worked on). The two curtain cameras are a different story. In the Graflex line these would be the Compact Graflexes. I have a couple of these, and I've never been able to make them work. Ed Romney used to publish a series of pamphlets on camera repair. He said that the two curtain cameras were basically impossible to fix. So far that agrees with my experience.

[Sevo]

The basic question is does it have one shutter curtain or two opposing curtains. The one shutter curtain cameras (like most of the Graflexes) are fairly robust, and most can be made to work (at least the Graflexes I've worked on). The two curtain cameras are a different story. In the Graflex line these would be the Compact Graflexes. I have a couple of these, and I've never been able to make them work. Ed Romney used to publish a series of pamphlets on camera repair. He said that the two curtain cameras were basically impossible to fix. So far that agrees with my experience.

I have revived two Mentors so far - the Mentor mechanics are actually quite trivial and reliable, as the curtains are permanently coupled, and the extra drum controls the ribbon length between them. As long as it is only a matter of cracked cloth or broken ribbons, these can be replaced. In terms of collectibility, a modern curtain zeroes the collectors value of a camera, so I'd only do it on cameras that aren't particularly rare - but many Mentors fall into that class. Depending on the state of the spring and rigidity of the curtain material, you may fail to match the original times (by tension/spacing table), but if you don't mind being off by a stop or two it is possible to return the shutters to a working order that is free from capping and fading.

There are worse two-curtain focal plane shutters (notably on many of the British SLRs, the Reflex Primar or the folding Ihagees), that resemble small format SLRs in having separately driven curtains and some kind of timer governing the delay between firing the first and second - if these are broken, it is near impossible to repair them to a state where they neither cap nor fade, as the exact timing of the shutters is highly dependent on the materials used, and there are no modern replacements with the original properties.

[Ramiro Elena]

Sevo, would you mind explaining how to set shutter speeds with the Mentor?
The T setting shows nice tension (it is only slow at return like the Speed Graphics)

I set the number on the small circular window at the bottom of the camera and then turn the wheel until it clicks, then release the shutter?

[Sevo]

On the older models it follows the same pattern as on Graflex cameras, except that you set it to two numbers rather than a number/letter combination - you look up the slit width and spring tension for your desired speed on the brass plate engraved with the timing table ("Geschwindigkeitstabelle"), pull the winding knob to set the mark on the edge to one number (representing the slit width) or Z (respectively T on export versions), set the spring pre-tension (displayed in the small round window) with the bottom knob, wind the camera, and release it with the release lever.

Shortly after WWII, they eliminated the spring tension, and put a direct time scale on the winding/slit setting knob.