Anyone Ever Use this Tank?

[bobwysiwyg]

Picked up some old items, among them is a development tank (see pics). The lid says "Adjustable" Then "Cut-Film-Pack Developing Tank" and finally round the other side of the lid, it says, "Fink-Roselieve Co. Inc."

It would appear to be a daylight tank, but I see no means of agitating. No center spindle and its design would not accommodate one, and the lid just rests on top, loosely. Possibly some gasket should be there?? Not sure. :confused:

[Mark Sampson]

Looks like an 'fr' brand tank, similar to or the same as the 'Yankee' brand tank. I've owned one, but never used it. I'm sure you'll get replies from users before long.

[Jon Shiu]

I think it might be missing a metal clip that pushes down on the top of the films. The clip causes the film to bend, so as to leave some room for developer to circulate at the sides. I used one once and got thin negs on the edges where the ridges are.

Jon

[lenser]

It is an FR tank and the part that looks to be missing is a sort of plastic wicket that serves to hold the film in place so that it doesn't somehow migrate upward and partially out of the solutions. I still use this tank often in my processing and so long as you give it a couple of good hard bangs on the sink to dislodge air bubbles at the start and then agitate regularly by sloshing it back and forth in the direction of the channels between the film sheets, it gives terrific results. You are probably safe using this without the hold down bar, but having one would be more secure.

The adjustable feature is in case you also shoot 2x3 or one of the other smaller than 4x5 film sizes that used to be available. All you had to do is raise the two film channel inserts out of the tank and move them to the appropriate slots for the size film you were going to process. Beautifully simple.

If you need pictures of the bar, let me know.

[bobwysiwyg]

Thanks all for the replies. Lenser, the attached pics are pretty bad, but the lower-middle one is a piece that seems to rest directly on top of the film sheets when inserted. Is this what you are talking about?

[Ari]

Tim is probably right that using it the way he describes will yield good results, but I've never had a good experience with the dreaded Yankee-type tank.

[Jim Andrada]

I think the missing piece is sort of a U-shaped plastic part that slides into a couple of grooves and IIRC clicks into place to positivrly hold the film down. The internal piece you show in the pic is a light trap sort of thing. I have a tank like this around here somewhere - it's the Yankee brand though, but it's the same thing. Works OK but uses a lot of developer if you're only doing a few sheets, and it can be sloppy to use.

[Leigh]

...the lower-middle one is a piece that seems to rest directly on top of the film sheets when inserted.
Is this what you are talking about?
No. That piece is a light baffle that sits atop the inner assembly regardless of film size.

You're missing two items from the set.

The "hold-down" (for lack of a better name) is a U-shaped piece that slides down the open channels on the left
and right of your photo. The vertical arms are quite short, only serving to prevent the piece from rotating.

The tank can accommodate various sizes of film, each having a different height.
The hold-down rests on top of the sheets, wherever that may be relative to the bottom of the tank.
The hold-down has a small finger tab on top to grab hold of it. It goes in with the U ends pointed down.

You're also missing the loading guide.

It's a flat piece with a slot for the film, and Vs in one end that engages the bumps on the top of the tank.
You move it from one position to the next to guide the film when loading.

I have two of these tanks, identified as "FR". They work well.
You slide the tank side-to-side (parallel to the film sheets) gently to accomplish agitation.

- Leigh

[lenser]

Give me a few minutes and I'll send an image. The top plate that you refer to is as Jim says, a light trap. It will likely serve to hold down the film when processing 4x5, but the wicket or U shaped piece would be more critical for smaller film sizes.

This really doesn't use all that much liquid and works easily as a simple pour system directly into and out of your 1 gallon chemical bottles. You will get a bit of the chemistry on your hands while agitating, but not enough to worry about. Just rinse it off while you work. Since this is a daylight tank, once you have it all put together you can even run film in your kitchen sink with no problems.

[lenser]

Bob, Here are the images. The full set up is obvious. The other two show the wicket shaped film hold down piece including in it's slot in the tank. In use, you simply push it down until it touches the loaded film. As you can see, I've given this tank a lot of use. In fact, I bought in while I was in high school in the mid 1960's. It still works perfectly.

Two hints:

Turn the tank so that the film will load across your body, then load the farthest slot first and then work toward your body. If you load the far slot first,then count toward you. By doing it the way I suggest, you can use the edges of the slots to rest the film on while you pull it toward you until you get to the empty one which you feel for in the dark. It's easier than it sounds.

When processing, turn the tank so that the spaces between the sheets of film run toward you which then allows you to pick up the tank and slosh it back and forth (toward and away from you) for agitation.

It would be a good idea to do a dry run with loading the film in daylight several times until you get the feel of how the film should move toward you on the edges until you find the empty slot. It would also be good to fill the tank to just above the tops of the slots with water and then measure that with your graduate so you don't over or under fill while actually processing.

[Leigh]

Here are the images. The full set up is obvious.
You're missing the loading guide as I described in my previous post.


You're also missing the loading guide.
It's a flat piece with a slot for the film, and Vs in one end that engages the bumps on the top of the tank.
You move it from one position to the next to guide the film when loading.

I added that in an edit, perhaps after you posted your reply.

- Leigh

[lenser]

Leigh, I don't even remember having a loading guide for mine. If I did, it is long gone. Could that be an accessory that they added some time after my purchase some 46 or 47 years ago?

[Leigh]

Leigh, I don't even remember having a loading guide for mine. If I did, it is long gone.
Could that be an accessory that they added some time after my purchase some 46 or 47 years ago?
I don't know.

Both of mine have the loading guide.
They were both purchased used within maybe the last 20 years.

It could have been an accessory, or it might be a product enhancement that appeared with later versions.

Perhaps somebody can find a catalog listing or advertisement for the product.

- Leigh

[lenser]

I'd like to find one of those just to try it to see if it is superior to the way I've always loaded this tank. My method certainly works well until I get distracted and lose count of which film slot I'm on in the dark. Any chance you could send a photo of just the guide?

Thanks.

Tim

[bobwysiwyg]

Thank you all for your input. Looks like I am missing the "U" shaped piece and possibly the loading guide. I may give a try. I would only be using if for 4x5 so I may get by.. if my dexterity and feel can find the slots. :)

[bobwysiwyg]

I'd like to find one of those just to try it to see if it is superior to the way I've always loaded this tank. My method certainly works well until I get distracted and lose count of which film slot I'm on in the dark. Any chance you could send a photo of just the guide?

Thanks.

Tim

I'd be interested in seeing it as well.

[Jon Shiu]

Photo of guide:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=79889&d=1346775898

[Leigh]

Photo of guide:
Yep, that's it. Thanks, Jon.

http://www.atwaterkent.info/Images/FRTankLoadingGuide.png

- Leigh

[bobwysiwyg]

Thanks all. Makes sense now.

[Filmnut]

I've used this tank to do 4X5, but have had issues trying to get enough agitation with it. Some things work, but when I've had large areas of even tone, ie sky, it has been uneven. I've tried several different techniques for agitation, but nothing worked consistently well for me.
I now use a Combiplan tank, which though I've heard that some people don't like, I find that it works for me.
But, give it try, perhaps it will work for you!
Keith

[Merg Ross]

I drilled holes in the bottom and have used it as a film washer for many years. Works great. Just a thought in case it doesn't work out for processing.

[Leigh]

I've used this tank to do 4X5, but have had issues trying to get enough agitation with it.
I expect it depends a lot on the particular developer being used.

I use Rodinal exclusively. It wants very little agitation, so it's happy in the FR tank.

- Leigh

[bobwysiwyg]

I've used this tank to do 4X5, but have had issues trying to get enough agitation with it. Some things work, but when I've had large areas of even tone, ie sky, it has been uneven. I've tried several different techniques for agitation, but nothing worked consistently well for me.
I now use a Combiplan tank, which though I've heard that some people don't like, I find that it works for me.
But, give it try, perhaps it will work for you!
Keith

I too use a Combiplan, just did four sheets today. I usually have no issues, but today, somehow, two sheets were in contact with one another but only down in one corner. Can't figure out how I did that. :mad:

[lenser]

Jon and Leigh,

Many thanks for those images. I honestly have no memory of that part being with my tank, however, I just took a hard look at it and see that there are teeth on the side ridges that are obviously there to engage the film guide. I guess I must have lost or discarded that early on. The search now begins.

Filmnut,

Try agitating more often, say every 30 seconds, with a slightly thinner dilution and a shorter development time to compensate for the greater activity. I don't recall any of my film having uneven areas, certainly not any within the last several years.

[LuisR]

I expect it depends a lot on the particular developer being used.

I use Rodinal exclusively. It wants very little agitation, so it's happy in the FR tank.

- Leigh

Leigh,

I use Rodinal with medium format, however, the info I have come across recommends 10 sec agitation every minute, which is what I do. Can you tell me your thoughts on using Rodinal with very little agitation, and just how little are we talking about?

[Leigh]

I use Rodinal with medium format, however, the info I have come across recommends 10 sec agitation every minute
Hi Luis,

Yes, that's about the agitation that I use, which is less than the common recommendation of every 30 seconds for other developers.

I say "about" because I use Rodinal in several different environments, from sub-35mm through 8x10 sheet film, so methodology varies. :D

- Leigh

[Keith Fleming]

I'm wondering whether the fr/Yankee tank would work well for stand development. I have a Combi-Plan in storage (we're trying to sell the house), and have thought it might work for stand development with Rodinal diluted 1:100. It looks, however, as if it will be some time before I will have the opportunity to do a test.

Keith

[jnantz]

hi keith

i use a FR tank and stand develop with sumatranol 130 ( caffenol with sumatra beans and a tiny bit of ansco 130 )
have been doing this for a couple years, never any problems.

YMMV
john