View Full Version : Post Your Images 4x5 or Larger Shot with Ilford FP4+
Henricus
21-Aug-2013, 05:02
I would like to see what others are doing with this film, FP4+. Also, if you developed it yourself, put what you used. Show your work off!
100618
Here is one I did with my homemade pinhole.
100617
The double exposure was a rookie mistake, but I didn't complain.
I used stock Xtol in a tube.
FP4+ is my backup to Acros in 4x5, and my primary in 8x10 since Acros is not available in that size in the US.
I tray-process in Rodinal, usually 1:50.
What information are you after? It would be a waste of time for me to go through several thousand negatives
to post something without understanding your question.
- Leigh
Henricus
21-Aug-2013, 06:53
FP4+ is my backup to Acros in 4x5, and my primary in 8x10 since Acros is not available in that size in the US.
I tray-process in Rodinal, usually 1:50.
What information are you after? It would be a waste of time for me to go through several thousand negatives
to post something without understanding your question.
- Leigh
Not really after a specific answer. Just would like to see others work with Ilford FP4+ and curious what they developed it with, if at all. I love Rodinal, but I had not thought of using it on FP4+. I would like to see that.
I used Ilford PQ Universal Developer for most of these...my usual combo, though occasionally Dektol when I run out of the PQ. The Redwood and the girders are carbon prints, the other two platinum. 8x10 or 4x10.
Henricus
21-Aug-2013, 08:11
I used Ilford PQ Universal Developer for most of these...my usual combo, though occasionally Dektol when I run out of the PQ. The Redwood and the girders are carbon prints, the other two platinum. 8x10 or 4x10.
Lovely. The detail is fantastic. I bet the prints are exquisite if they look this good on this cheapo monitor. Thanks for sharing.
RHITMrB
21-Aug-2013, 09:59
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8023/7389181864_97c2d05edb_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rhitmrb/7389181864/)
Ford LTD (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rhitmrb/7389181864/) by Isaac Sachs (http://www.flickr.com/people/rhitmrb/), on Flickr
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7094/7393843548_42eca727ae_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rhitmrb/7393843548/)
Mausoleum (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rhitmrb/7393843548/) by Isaac Sachs (http://www.flickr.com/people/rhitmrb/), on Flickr
I use HC-110 dilution H.
Henricus
21-Aug-2013, 10:11
I use HC-110 dilution H.
Wow, you got some shadow detail on that hallway. Nice work. I've got some HC-110 and I was thinking of trying it with my FP4+. Do you use it as a one-shot developer or do you keep some stock stored?
Just FYI -- I develop my negatives to print alt processes, so my negatives are very high contrast. My film/developer combos allow for this expansion, yet maintain good mid-tones. I do not recommend using Ilford PQ Universal or Dektol developers for negatives destined for enlarging (enlarged grain). Another one:
Last Light, Yosemite Valley, Yosemite Falls.
4x10 Platinum/Palladium print
RHITMrB
21-Aug-2013, 10:53
Wow, you got some shadow detail on that hallway. Nice work. I've got some HC-110 and I was thinking of trying it with my FP4+. Do you use it as a one-shot developer or do you keep some stock stored?
Always one-shot! That and the syrup form (no having to deal with stock/working solution blah blah blah) make up the bulk of the appeal of HC-110 to me. Being a compensating developer at extreme dilutions is icing on the cake.
Henricus
21-Aug-2013, 13:19
Just FYI -- I develop my negatives to print alt processes, so my negatives are very high contrast. My film/developer combos allow for this expansion, yet maintain good mid-tones. I do not recommend using Ilford PQ Universal or Dektol developers for negatives destined for enlarging (enlarged grain). Another one:
Last Light, Yosemite Valley, Yosemite Falls.
4x10 Platinum/Palladium print
That is good to know. I've played with Cyanotypes (I know, kid stuff) a little and have done some reading on other alt processes. I hope to try them some day. Thanks for the insight. This is cool.
Cyanotypes can be very cool (pun not intended). Bleaching and toning can result in incredible looking images! They don't have to be 'blue"!
Henricus
21-Aug-2013, 13:27
Always one-shot! That and the syrup form (no having to deal with stock/working solution blah blah blah) make up the bulk of the appeal of HC-110 to me. Being a compensating developer at extreme dilutions is icing on the cake.
I just read an interesting take on HC-110 as a one shot developer. I've only done this with Rodinal. That and compensating. I'll have to try this with HC-110. Thanks!
I just read an interesting take on HC-110 as a one shot developer. I've only done this with Rodinal. That and compensating. I'll have to try this with HC-110. Thanks!
When I using a 4x5, TMax100 and HC-110 were my usual suspects. I used Dilution V (for Vaughn!) which was one oz of the HC-110 concentrate added to 60 oz water: for about 10 minutes in a tray, I believe (it has been a long time).
Made some pretty nice 16x20 silver gelatin prints with those negatives!
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