Post Your Images 4x5 or Larger Shot with Ilford FP4+

[Henricus]

I would like to see what others are doing with this film, FP4+. Also, if you developed it yourself, put what you used. Show your work off!

100618
Here is one I did with my homemade pinhole.

100617
The double exposure was a rookie mistake, but I didn't complain.
I used stock Xtol in a tube.

[Leigh]

FP4+ is my backup to Acros in 4x5, and my primary in 8x10 since Acros is not available in that size in the US.

I tray-process in Rodinal, usually 1:50.

What information are you after? It would be a waste of time for me to go through several thousand negatives
to post something without understanding your question.

- Leigh

[Henricus]

FP4+ is my backup to Acros in 4x5, and my primary in 8x10 since Acros is not available in that size in the US.

I tray-process in Rodinal, usually 1:50.

What information are you after? It would be a waste of time for me to go through several thousand negatives
to post something without understanding your question.

- Leigh
Not really after a specific answer. Just would like to see others work with Ilford FP4+ and curious what they developed it with, if at all. I love Rodinal, but I had not thought of using it on FP4+. I would like to see that.

[Vaughn]

I used Ilford PQ Universal Developer for most of these...my usual combo, though occasionally Dektol when I run out of the PQ. The Redwood and the girders are carbon prints, the other two platinum. 8x10 or 4x10.

[Henricus]

I used Ilford PQ Universal Developer for most of these...my usual combo, though occasionally Dektol when I run out of the PQ. The Redwood and the girders are carbon prints, the other two platinum. 8x10 or 4x10.

Lovely. The detail is fantastic. I bet the prints are exquisite if they look this good on this cheapo monitor. Thanks for sharing.

[RHITMrB]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8023/7389181864_97c2d05edb_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rhitmrb/7389181864/)
Ford LTD (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rhitmrb/7389181864/) by Isaac Sachs (http://www.flickr.com/people/rhitmrb/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7094/7393843548_42eca727ae_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rhitmrb/7393843548/)
Mausoleum (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rhitmrb/7393843548/) by Isaac Sachs (http://www.flickr.com/people/rhitmrb/), on Flickr

I use HC-110 dilution H.

[Henricus]

I use HC-110 dilution H.

Wow, you got some shadow detail on that hallway. Nice work. I've got some HC-110 and I was thinking of trying it with my FP4+. Do you use it as a one-shot developer or do you keep some stock stored?

[Vaughn]

Just FYI -- I develop my negatives to print alt processes, so my negatives are very high contrast. My film/developer combos allow for this expansion, yet maintain good mid-tones. I do not recommend using Ilford PQ Universal or Dektol developers for negatives destined for enlarging (enlarged grain). Another one:

Last Light, Yosemite Valley, Yosemite Falls.
4x10 Platinum/Palladium print

[RHITMrB]

Wow, you got some shadow detail on that hallway. Nice work. I've got some HC-110 and I was thinking of trying it with my FP4+. Do you use it as a one-shot developer or do you keep some stock stored?

Always one-shot! That and the syrup form (no having to deal with stock/working solution blah blah blah) make up the bulk of the appeal of HC-110 to me. Being a compensating developer at extreme dilutions is icing on the cake.

[Henricus]

Just FYI -- I develop my negatives to print alt processes, so my negatives are very high contrast. My film/developer combos allow for this expansion, yet maintain good mid-tones. I do not recommend using Ilford PQ Universal or Dektol developers for negatives destined for enlarging (enlarged grain). Another one:

Last Light, Yosemite Valley, Yosemite Falls.
4x10 Platinum/Palladium print

That is good to know. I've played with Cyanotypes (I know, kid stuff) a little and have done some reading on other alt processes. I hope to try them some day. Thanks for the insight. This is cool.

[Vaughn]

Cyanotypes can be very cool (pun not intended). Bleaching and toning can result in incredible looking images! They don't have to be 'blue"!

[Henricus]

Always one-shot! That and the syrup form (no having to deal with stock/working solution blah blah blah) make up the bulk of the appeal of HC-110 to me. Being a compensating developer at extreme dilutions is icing on the cake.

I just read an interesting take on HC-110 as a one shot developer. I've only done this with Rodinal. That and compensating. I'll have to try this with HC-110. Thanks!

[Vaughn]

I just read an interesting take on HC-110 as a one shot developer. I've only done this with Rodinal. That and compensating. I'll have to try this with HC-110. Thanks!

When I using a 4x5, TMax100 and HC-110 were my usual suspects. I used Dilution V (for Vaughn!) which was one oz of the HC-110 concentrate added to 60 oz water: for about 10 minutes in a tray, I believe (it has been a long time).

Made some pretty nice 16x20 silver gelatin prints with those negatives!