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Matthew Lea
19-Jul-2004, 17:06
I just purchased an 11x14 Century. It is in great shape, has all the parts and pieces. I am just looking for some information regarding this camera. Or just some input from someone who has used this camera.

Matt

Moe_4073
19-Jul-2004, 17:33
Try: http://www.fiberq.com/cam/cent.htm

kfed1984
6-Nov-2023, 13:07
did you end up finding any manuals for this camera? i just bought one

AuditorOne
6-Nov-2023, 14:01
It is a nice camera. I enjoy using mine. Heavy buggers though. I certainly don't pack mine very far from the van. Make sure you have a heavy duty tripod for it.

Mine was made by the Folmer Schwing Division of Eastman Kodak somewhere around 1910. Mine uses film, not glass plates. I never had a manual for it though. It is a pretty standard wooden field camera, nothing too surprising.

If you need a book for it "View Camera Technique" by Leslie Stroebel is the book I have always used if I had any questions on any of these types of cameras.

kfed1984
6-Nov-2023, 17:24
thanks for the quick reply, the 11x14 seems a lot lighter than my Cambo 8x10 studio camera, and its more compact

The focusing glass seems like it has ripples on it, maybe it sagged after 100 years by a bit. I hope the standard 11x14 film holder that I ordered for it fits onto it

Later I will probably make my own glass plate holder for experimentation, or just lay a piece of glass manually in a dark studio. For film I will be using ultra high contrast document type film, developed in very low contrast developer.

The 11x14 lens board that came with it is a bit smaller than my Cambo 163x163 mm board, so I ordered another Cambo board and will file it down to fit. The little wood board that came with the camera is kinda useless anyway, but I don't want to trim any wood or modify anything, as this is an antique and I will treat it as such.


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AuditorOne
7-Nov-2023, 12:30
Yep, looks really close to the one that I have. I have a 500mm Wollaston Meniscus lens on mine right now.

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This is one of the few attempts I have made to scan the results. Sorry this isn't a great example but it is not easy for me to scan an 11x14 image.

I absolutely love working with this camera but I am just starting to get my health back to the point where I can even consider working with it again. I have a whole bunch of work to do to get proficient with it. It is certainly not something you just run out with to snap pictures. :D

Great fun though!

kfed1984
7-Nov-2023, 19:04
Great picture, what film/developer did you use? I could not find that miniscus lens on ebay,

But found that my Schneider 300mm and Fujinon 250mm and another 350mm lens that are meant for 8x10, also cover 11x14 but without much movements.

Does this Century camera use standard 11x14 film holders or something custom?

diversey
7-Nov-2023, 19:24
You may measure your 11x14 camera back and see if it matches the standard 11x14 film holder (ANSI standard).

Dimensions: (ANSI in parenthesis)
Depth to fim surface: 0.330" (0.332"+/-0.016")
Retaining tab location: 16.125" (16.160")
Thickness: 0.75" (0.79")
Length: 16.25" (16.188")
Width: 13" (13.000")
Exposure height: 13. 563" (14.086"?)
Exposure width: 11.0625" (10.188")
Distance to exposure field: 1.25" (1.255")

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kfed1984
8-Nov-2023, 19:05
Thanks for the details.

I checked your youtube channel, and didn't see the century there

kfed1984
8-Nov-2023, 20:05
in this video, what film/developer did you use?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ung5GT-J6k4

jnantz
9-Nov-2023, 05:11
thanks for the quick reply, the 11x14 seems a lot lighter than my Cambo 8x10 studio camera, and its more compact

The focusing glass seems like it has ripples on it, maybe it sagged after 100 years by a bit. I hope the standard 11x14 film holder that I ordered for it fits onto it

Later I will probably make my own glass plate holder for experimentation, or just lay a piece of glass manually in a dark studio. For film I will be using ultra high contrast document type film, developed in very low contrast developer.

The 11x14 lens board that came with it is a bit smaller than my Cambo 163x163 mm board, so I ordered another Cambo board and will file it down to fit. The little wood board that came with the camera is kinda useless anyway, but I don't want to trim any wood or modify anything, as this is an antique and I will treat it as such.


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11x14 cameras sometimes had proprietary backs, and sometimes backs didn't fit on cameras with the same brand ( like century empire state and century studio 10 ) . if you are looking to buy film holders
make sure if you have the right to return them if they don't fit the purchase of your back. I have a few 11x14 holders that don't seat correctly.

diversey
9-Nov-2023, 05:25
I used to have a Seneca 11x14 camera that is very similar to Century camera. In that video, various kinds of film such as Kodak Tmax 100/400, Ilford FP4plus and HP5+ were used, developer was HC-110.

Tin Can
9-Nov-2023, 06:19
I have a Seneca 11X14 but no landing gear

It goes on my wheel barrow

kfed1984
10-Nov-2023, 15:47
[QUOTE=diversey;1695960]You may measure your 11x14 camera back and see if it matches the standard 11x14 film holder (ANSI standard).
"Distance to exposure field: 1.25" (1.255")"

I think this dimension must be off, cannot be 1.25", too thick.

So I got an 11x14 film holder by mail today and it does not fit into the century back, a little too wide and a bit too long to fit. So I will have to fabricate a custom back and will probably reuse the ground glass and brass leaf springs. Not modifying the film holders.

Tin Can
11-Nov-2023, 03:55
[QUOTE=diversey;1695960]You may measure your 11x14 camera back and see if it matches the standard 11x14 film holder (ANSI standard).
"Distance to exposure field: 1.25" (1.255")"

I think this dimension must be off, cannot be 1.25", too thick.

So I got an 11x14 film holder by mail today and it does not fit into the century back, a little too wide and a bit too long to fit. So I will have to fabricate a custom back and will probably reuse the ground glass and brass leaf springs. Not modifying the film holders.

You did not do your homework

Study first

kfed1984
11-Nov-2023, 10:13
Never mind, the 1.25" edge distance is not the depth to film I was thinking about.

Anyways,

there's not too much info on Century backs out there. Will have to make my own back to fit the camera and the holder.

kfed1984
18-Dec-2023, 16:24
11x14 cameras sometimes had proprietary backs, and sometimes backs didn't fit on cameras with the same brand ( like century empire state and century studio 10 ) . if you are looking to buy film holders
make sure if you have the right to return them if they don't fit the purchase of your back. I have a few 11x14 holders that don't seat correctly.

Well the film holders don't fit into the back, just barely. Not wide enough by about 1/16 and does not slide deep enough as the stop is placed too close. The film holders are per spec, and the back is off a bit. Thinking of modifying the back by removing the stop and widening the sliding channel a bit. Also need to check if the distance from back to film is same as from back to the ground glass. Otherwise more cutting or shimming needed.

kfed1984
18-Dec-2023, 16:28
Also, the original camera came with an accessory for extending the back standard rearward. Thinking of making one. Will have to machine the rack and brass fixtures.

AuditorOne
18-Dec-2023, 20:52
I was lucky. I bought mine several years ago and it came with three film holders so I had what I needed to start. I am using Ilford film (HP5+ and FP4) that I have picked up in their ULF Sale every year. I am barely proficient enough to know how to set it up and shoot a sheet of film but I keep trying. Once in awhile things work out and it feels great. I use D-23 for my developing because it is simple to mix up my own so it is always fresh. It seems to work fine with Ilford's films.

Right now I am reading "View Camera" by Jim Stone (thanks to suggestions from this forum) and working hard with my 4x5 so I can really learn how things ought to be done in order to get good results. I have always shot a lot of 35mm so I thought I had a good handle on photography but I have realized I am really a complete beginner with large format. Hopefully, sometime after Christmas, I will have the time to get out and really practice with the 11x14 in the field. My plan at this point is to shoot film and paper negatives which I can do with the equipment I have available right now. Between learning things with the 4x5 and then trying them out on the 11x14 I will be having a lot of fun this winter.

I wish you luck getting things sorted out with your camera because I am sure you will get a huge amount of satisfaction from using it. There is a book called Primitive Photography that shows you how to build your own film holder. It is intended for calotypes, which are basically paper negatives, but I'll bet it would also work with film. Anyway it shows you how to use simple hand tools to build the film holder and it doesn't look too difficult. You may want to give it a try with your Century. It is another option anyway.

Anyway, it is all great fun. Even working with 4x5 using the View Camera book has been a real eye opener. After using this book, and really learning how to do this the way it should be done, I can see why people enjoy large format so much. I feel like I am learning more about photography right now than I have in quite awhile.

Good luck and have fun with your camera.

EDIT - BTW John (jnantz) has a great caffenol recipe that adds a little Ansco 130 developer as an ingredient that also work great for developing large format film.

kfed1984
19-Dec-2023, 18:04
I was lucky. I bought mine several years ago and it came with three film holders so I had what I needed to start. I am using Ilford film (HP5+ and FP4) that I have picked up in their ULF Sale every year. I am barely proficient enough to know how to set it up and shoot a sheet of film but I keep trying. Once in awhile things work out and it feels great. I use D-23 for my developing because it is simple to mix up my own so it is always fresh. It seems to work fine with Ilford's films.

Do you have pictures of the back of your camera or filmholders? Just wonder why mine do not fit. Off by 1/16 in width. Also the distance from the back to ground glass is a bit off from the back to the film plane, so the ground glass will have to be shimmed.

Thanks for the suggestions, on the film holder especially. Later I want to make a holder for glass plates.

AuditorOne
19-Dec-2023, 18:43
I'll try to get a couple of pictures by tomorrow. Have to find my digital camera.

The width of each holder is 12 7/8" wide and 16" long (or deep) from the bottom of the holder to the locating notch at the top. Of course the holder extends above that but those are the two major dimensions on mine. The thickness is just shy of an inch on two of them and third is about 1 1/4 inches. On the third and thicker film holder the backing piece is the same distance from the surface of the holder itself if you understand what I mean. I don't remember what the depth to where the film rests is right now. I would measure but all my film holders are presently loaded with film. The only 11x14 film boxes I have right now haven't been opened yet so I have no place to store the film when I pull it out for measuring. I may have an open box of printing paper I can store the film in but I haven't found one yet.

This should give you a start though.

OKAROB
20-Dec-2023, 10:11
My Rochester 11X14 has the same issue and will not seat an ANSI 11X14 back correctly. It's not just the width and length of the holder but also the "T" depth that is off and needs to be corrected. Please keep us posted on your modifications and please send us photos. I am also in need of a Korona 11X14 front rail.

kfed1984
21-Dec-2023, 06:50
My Rochester 11X14 has the same issue and will not seat an ANSI 11X14 back correctly. It's not just the width and length of the holder but also the "T" depth that is off and needs to be corrected. Please keep us posted on your modifications and please send us photos. I am also in need of a Korona 11X14 front rail.

I will share the modification pictures when as soon as I'll start working on it.

AuditorOne
21-Dec-2023, 17:49
It appears that my film holders fit the ANSI standard for 11x14 film holders almost exactly. I took the specs from this Photrio post. https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/ansi-specifications.73096/

kfed1984
22-Dec-2023, 17:28
It appears that my film holders fit the ANSI standard for 11x14 film holders almost exactly. I took the specs from this Photrio post. https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/ansi-specifications.73096/

Is ANSI the only standard to which film holders are made, aside from custom film holders? Maybe ISO. I will check my holders tonight.

kfed1984
22-Dec-2023, 17:36
I just got a 600mm Apo-Ronar barrel/process lens for my 11x14. Any ideas if there are leaf-type shutters available for this size? Its about a 3.7" diameter lens barrel. I can machine a threaded adapter if needed.

If I made a reducing adapted to fit on something like a Copal 3 shutter, I think this arrangement would restrict the image circle too much, there must be some other option.

Are there shutter options aside from manually blocking the lens with a lens cap?

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AuditorOne
22-Dec-2023, 18:16
I just got a 600mm Apo-Ronar barrel/process lens for my 11x14. Any ideas if there are leaf-type shutters available for this size? Its about a 3.7" diameter lens barrel. I can machine a threaded adapter if needed.

If I made a reducing adapted to fit on something like a Copal 3 shutter, I think this arrangement would restrict the image circle too much, there must be some other option.

Are there shutter options aside from manually blocking the lens with a lens cap?

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A Nikkor M 450mm f9 in a Copal 3 shutter is an option. I think the Goerz 19" Apo Artar is also in a Copal 3 shutter. These are big shutters but I believe they do cover 11x14.

kfed1984
22-Dec-2023, 19:07
A Nikkor M 450mm f9 in a Copal 3 shutter is an option. I think the Goerz 19" Apo Artar is also in a Copal 3 shutter. These are big shutters but I believe they do cover 11x14.

I have a copal 3 at home, will make some experiments. otherwise it will be a Packard shutter, but these cannot be times for short exposure I think. For the Copal I'm thinking there may be mechanical vignetting as the shutter will have to be placed be way behind the lens. Unless I remove the lens elements and make adapters for front and back mounting to the copal 3 shutter. The 600mm lens barrel definitely will not fit inside the copal3 shutter boby.

jnantz
23-Dec-2023, 05:55
Hi Kfed1984,

I can't help you with your shutter question but wanted to mention that's a nice lens !
I hope you get it mounted so you can use it the way you want ..

a couple of things some people do if they get in a pickle is search for a Thornton Picard roller blind shutter. I am not sure if they make them big enough for your lens but it's worth a shot. The other thing is people use neutral density filters to block the light so they can use whatever the "I" setting might be set at on their single speed shutter ( Packard or one of Reinhold's Guillotine Shutters, or a dark slide shutter )

I just look at the unfitting film holders as being part of the "charm" of an old camera that nothing fits quite right on :)

Have fun shooting 11x14!
John

Len Middleton
23-Dec-2023, 16:17
Are there shutter options aside from manually blocking the lens with a lens cap?

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This is a whole topic onto itself.

Might want to search out:

1. Sinar Copal shutter

2. Packard shutter

3. Jim Galli shutter - Two dark slides in “V” formation

I have used a dark slide in front of the lens with success, myself.

And no doubt a number of options I missed…

Good luck in your efforts,

Len

Mark Sampson
23-Dec-2023, 18:10
Given the small apertures that you are likely to be using with a 600mm lens, it seems that your exposures will be long. So a simple shutter like a Packard, front-mounted, might do the job.

AuditorOne
24-Dec-2023, 09:41
I use a Packard with my 500mm meniscus lens. Works quite well. When you only have instant and time available then choosing your shutter speed becomes real easy. :D

kfed1984
24-Dec-2023, 23:25
Guys, thanks for all the suggestions by the way, I was working on my camera back to fit the film holder. It finally fits now. Still need to shim the glass and machine the brass leaf springs.

kfed1984
24-Dec-2023, 23:36
Measuring depth to film surface on film holders, average about 0.360" with a film 0.008" thick. It should be: 0.330" (0.332"+/-0.016") according to diversey post earlier, so I think it is to spec.

The depth to glass surface is 0.318" average. I will have to shim the glass by about 0.040" from inside the camera back.

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kfed1984
24-Dec-2023, 23:40
The film holder is about 1/16 wider than the back. A 1/16 line is scribed around the perimeter, compensating for the difference and providing additional gap for holder clearance.

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kfed1984
24-Dec-2023, 23:41
Chiseling out the 1/16 perimeter line. Then sanding with a sanding block. Sandpaper on the side only, not on bottom. The exposed wood is there due to rubbing by the film holder, not from my sanding, just to be clear.

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kfed1984
24-Dec-2023, 23:46
The film holder now fits into the back. Will have to paint black some exposed wood surfaces inside. The inside view shows the film is sitting at the extreme left edge of the back, but fully visible to the lens. I will have to mark the film position on the ground glass.

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OKAROB
14-Feb-2024, 18:19
Thanks for the images and explanation. I bought another 11X14 back that had the proper width but was 1/8"-3/16" short on the length. I will remove the 3/16" backstop as you shown in your image and add a replacement backstop flush with the edge of the holder. I will either use a brass strip of metal or I will glue a new strip of wood. I am leaning towards a brass strip as the wood might break if handled too roughly. It is amazing how many different backs and holder combinations that exist for 11X14. Unfortunately, the seller was not sure of the manufacture of the camera back that I just purchased. I am just trying to decide whether I use a wood chisel or router to remove the thin strip of wood considering the age and dryness of the wood. I don't want a chunk to splinter out if I use a router. I also have to relocate the metal pins that hold the back to the camera. Wish me luck!

Robert