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View Full Version : How to use a triple convertible lens.



Dave Henry
22-Jul-2013, 03:35
I've acquired a mint Ansco 8x10 camera with six new Lisco holders. The camera includes a Protar VII Triple convertible lens. I've never shot with anything but current Schneiders etc.

The front element is a 23 1/4" and the rear is a 18 7/8".

The faceplate on the No.5 Universal Shutter shows the f/stop scales for the 23, 18 and the combined (I assume) focal length of 12"

Question is, if I only use one element such as the 18 7/8", do you always put it on the front of the lens so the shutter isn't exposed to the air or do either always go on the rear?

Secondly, if I do use them both as a 12" lens, does the higher element always go in front or does it matter?

Also, the highest speed is 1/50 sec and my shutter checker says it is slow at 1/25 sec. Does anyone have a favorite shutter repairman they would suggest?

Just got the box of film and heading to the coast this weekend.

Thanks for the help.

N Dhananjay
22-Jul-2013, 04:47
With the Protar VIIs, the single element always goes on the rear - the position of the aperture helps with correcting some of the aberrations that are there with the single cell (that get corrected by the symmetry when both are used. When using both cells, the longer focal length goes in front. When using single cells,, be prepared for the bellows focal length to be greater than the focal length because the nodal point lies outside the glass.

I'm guessing that you have a fairly large shutter (Betax # 4 or 5 or similar). You might have to resign yourself to a top speed of 1/25 or thereabouts. Just too large for the springs to drive the mass of moving parts any faster. I have two Betax #5 and 1 Ilex # 5 and they all reach top speeds of only around 1/20th or so.

Enjoy the lens - it makes surprisingly good images (even when converted, especially with B&W).

Cheers, DJ

Kevin Crisp
22-Jul-2013, 08:00
Ron Wisner said in testing some of his protars performed better with the shorter cell in front, so you might want to try it both ways. The advice above is generally considered the way it is supposed to be done, however.

For shutter repair Carole at Flutot's is well thought of, but getting that lens faster than 1/25th may be trouble no matter what.

More than a few people say single cell protars aren't much good. I suspect this is largely due to a failure to account for focus shift. If focused wide open, single cells will be a bit out of focus stopped down to f:32, which is minimum I'd suggest if you are expecting reasonably sharp edges. Recheck your focus with a good loupe after stopping down and adjust focus so that the lens is in the middle of the focusing distance that seems sharp on the ground glass. Or, to put it another way, stopped down that far there will be a zone as you rack the lens in and out where the loupe shows the image sharp in the middle. Set your focus in the middle of that zone. The results will be much better.

For the single cells, you can easily make a scale of what would be appropriate f stops converted to your single marked apertures. Or you can write them in since that big shutter has so much handscape on the front for making notes. (I've done the math for this and carry it in a notebook, I can send you the apertures for the single cells in mm if you send me a p.m.)

I think you'll find that combined you have an outstanding lens there, and that the single cells can save the day when you need a longer lens and they're all you've brought. The single cell performance even when stopped down to f:32 or f:45 may not be terribly sharp at the edges (depends on format, of course) but in a contact print you'll not see the fall off and with modest enlargements to 2x or 3x the negative will be quite acceptable to you. With single cells and an adjustment for focus shift the center sharpness is remarkably good.

Louis Pacilla
22-Jul-2013, 08:37
For the single cells, you can easily make a scale of what would be appropriate f stops converted to your single marked apertures. Or you can write them in since that big shutter has so much handscape on the front for making notes. (I've done the math for this and carry it in a notebook, I can send you the apertures for the single cells in mm if you send me a p.m.)


The faceplate on the No.5 Universal Shutter shows the f/stop scales for the 23, 18 and the combined (I assume) focal length of 12"

Hey Kevin

It seems Dave's shutter has the appropriate scales for both the combination FL as well as both single cells. So he seems to be set as far as that goes .

I will second all the information provided by both DJ & Kevin. Very sound and useful information from both men indeed.

Ari
22-Jul-2013, 09:12
Jumping in here with a question regarding the Turner-Reich convertibles.

I have a 12-21-28 and I'd like to know if anyone has a link for using it in its multifarious configurations (couldn't find a definitive link).

Thanks

Mark Woods
22-Jul-2013, 09:20
Ari, if it's a TR lens, it is the same lens I have. Edward Weston shot with it and is rumored not to like the 21" configuration. I don't like it either, but the 12" & 28" are fine. I shoot with the 12" all the time.

Ari
22-Jul-2013, 09:23
Mark, thanks; I usually use the 12" as well.

I can only reach 25" on my 8x10 bellows, so the 28" is out of my scope for the moment.

Fotoguy20d
22-Jul-2013, 09:30
back to the OP, Carol Miller (Flutots) fixed my last Ilex 5 but the 1/50 is still not 1/50. Be happy if it's consistent and you know what it is.

jnantz
22-Jul-2013, 10:10
Jumping in here with a question regarding the Turner-Reich convertibles.

I have a 12-21-28 and I'd like to know if anyone has a link for using it in its multifarious configurations (couldn't find a definitive link).

Thanks

hi ari

i am not able to find a definitive link either
although there is this one on apug, and it also
references the new cooke triple from a few years ago
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum187/25912-triple-convertible-lens-11x14-12x20.html

typically the way a triple convertible works
is both elements together are the smallest focal length ( in your case 12" )
the front element removed is the mid-focal length ( in your case 21 " )
and the rear element removed, and the front placed behind the shutter is the longest focal length (28 " )

have fun !
john

Ari
22-Jul-2013, 10:54
Thank you, John, exactly what I needed to know.
I'll have a look at the APUG link as well.

Louis Pacilla
22-Jul-2013, 11:26
Jumping in here with a question regarding the Turner-Reich convertibles.

I have a 12-21-28 and I'd like to know if anyone has a link for using it in its multifarious configurations (couldn't find a definitive link).

Thanks

Hey Ari Here's a fairly informative read from the company angle. You may have already viewed these but if not they are worth looking over. 1922 Gundlach-Manhattan Optical Co Catalog http://piercevaubel.com/cam/catalogs/1922gundmanlp286.htm 1925 catalog http://piercevaubel.com/cam/catalogs/1925gundmanlp407.htm and the 1932 catalog http://piercevaubel.com/cam/catalogs/1932gundlachlp334.htm

Ari
22-Jul-2013, 13:14
Hi Louis,
Yes, I have seen that, thanks for passing it on.
I fear I've hijacked this thread, unless the OP was satisfied with the advice he was given.
Going to play with the T-R now!

Peter Gomena
22-Jul-2013, 16:48
Using a strong yellow filter with the single elements of a triple convertible will help minimize some of the chromatic aberration. I used a #15 yellow with my Wollensak triple convertible and it helped quite a bit.

On the other hand, you may like the softer look - it depends on what you're after!

Ari
22-Jul-2013, 19:48
the front element removed is the mid-focal length ( in your case 21 " )



Just wanted to add to what John wrote; the front element removed, with the rear element placed in front gives the medium focal length; at least it does on my T-R 12-21-28.
Thanks again, John.

Dave Henry
23-Jul-2013, 21:56
Thanks everyone for all the explanations. I will use the 12 and 18 and bypass the long element for the time. The suggestion on a yellow filter was also great. The Ilex shutter has all three focal lengths with f/stops engraved on it and both cells have the focal lengths engraved on them so no problem figuring that out.

The 1/50 sec measures out to 1/25 sec and considering the comments on #5s being slow, I'll just leave it that way. All my lenses on my 2D are in #4s and I have faster speeds with them.

I will experiment with the rear cell on the rear as well as front. But, at $3+ per sheet, I'll be taking a lot of notes!

This camera is heavier than my 2D and the board is 7". I'll take my 2D lenses with me and play with them as well.

Have a great weekend and thanks again everyone.