Idea: MOD54 + paterson reel + combiplan

[Saus]

So ok, I'm sure I'm not the only one having problems with the MOD54 (scratches, uneven development), so I've been thinking, trying to come up with someting that can fit in a paterson 3 tank. I am no engineer, and have no way to make this, it's just an idea in my head.

What if there was a kind of reel, that looks like a paterson reel for 4x5 (very tall paterson reel), that fit in the tank like the mod54, and loaded film like the combiplan? Did I explain that well enough? With vents for the chemicals to flow just like the 35mm/120 film reels, only a bit larger. Say you could fit 6 or 8 sheets. And the tracks would just have to be a little bit deeper.

Oh, and that there are 2 sides, just like the mod54. So you have 3-4 on each side.

Would the sheets be rigid enough (not popping out)?

Maybe we can invent something together? :)

[Regular Rod]

Here's how I process up to 4 sheets of 4x5 at once without a darkroom using a Paterson Orbital Processor (http://freepdfhosting.com/f640343f29.pdf)


RR

[Saus]

That tank is even more rare than the combiplan...

[jp]

Saus, that would work for inversion agitation, but not for rotating agitation based on what I understand from you. The combiplan track system is solid plastic.

Do your agitation in slow motion if you are having problems with the mod54 function. I have one that I don't use much because I am happy with the combiplan.

[Light Guru]

The old Nikor stainless steel 4x5 developing tank is the best design of daylight tank I have seen. But they are rare and pricy.

[Saus]

The old Nikor stainless steel 4x5 developing tank is the best design of daylight tank I have seen. But they are rare and pricy.

Wow, I didn't even know about this. And it kind of resembles what I've been thinking of, only that the tracks for the film are at the top and bottom of the holder.


Do your agitation in slow motion if you are having problems with the mod54 function.

I am doing it very slowly, but it seems the liquids are pulling at the film up and down in the holder, making scratches on the emulsion free side. My mod54 is also a little bit taller than a sheet of film, making room for movement. I've been thinking of "modding" my mod 54 by making the "tracks" wider, or make the "corners" round.


Why can't there just be a "perfect" tank...

[Regular Rod]

That tank is even more rare than the combiplan...

They come up on eBay quite regularly.

RR

[Saus]

The JOBO 3010 caught my attention. Quite expensive though.

[koh303]

The JOBO 3010 caught my attention. Quite expensive though.

My 2 cents: does anyone ever get even development from a combiplan?

What you are looking for is the Jobo 2509 reel, and a 2520 tank. Answers all of your requests above, and costs about a third of an expert drum.
It does not leak, it is easy to load, and only needs minimal amounts of chemistry when in rotation (similar amounts to MOD54 when inverting).

[jp]

My 2 cents: does anyone ever get even development from a combiplan?

What you are looking for is the Jobo 2509 reel, and a 2520 tank. Answers all of your requests above, and costs about a third of an expert drum.
It does not leak, it is easy to load, and only needs minimal amounts of chemistry when in rotation (similar amounts to MOD54 when inverting).

I get perfect results from my combiplan, even though it's not a perfect instrument. I'm interested in and think highly of the Jobo stuff, but I don't have space in my current darkroom for the machine.

[koh303]

You do need a machine to use Jobo drums. You can get a manual roller base (#1509) or a motorized besseler (or other) roller (for cheap too...) OR you can just roll on a flat surface, or invert/stand as you would with any other tank.

[Kirk Gittings]

idea.....the Jobo tanks talked about above and BTZS tubes work perfectly, can be used in tiny spaces-look for some used.

[GSX4]

Has anyone researched the newer and improved Mk27 version of the MOD54 apparently, they addressed many of the issues inherent in earlier versions with uneven development, loading filmsheets etc.

[TimHenrion]

I have one of the original MOD54's as well as two of the new Mk27's. The Mk27's apparently are manufactured with assistance from Ilford and are very nice.

The new design eases all corners but changes the film holder notches to be a "wing" that extends out from the center. As such, rotary agitation is a no-go. You *have* to use inversion agitation. Using rotary agitation appears to create a vortex near the film contact points that will give extra development in that area (i.e. you'll see two 'stripes' of overdevelopment) if you mistakenly use rotary agitation (i.e. the 'swizzle stick'). Morgan makes this fairly clear on his website. You must use inversion agitation. With the Mk27's I have no problems with loading or uneven development.

For loading, the key is practice, practice, practice. Do it in the daylight until you can do it with your eyes closed and then do it with your eyes closed some more. Learn to feel the sheet separation of properly loaded sheets and be able to tell when multiple sheets are loaded in the same slot. Practice unloading sheets in the dark so that you can back out a misload, retry and continue.

For those set against the MOD54, why don't you simply use the "Taco Method" in the Paterson 3-reel tank? It works but you can only process 4 sheets at a time vs. 6 with the MOD54.

[Saus]

Thanks for all the input guys. I'll look into the 2509 reel and tank. I believe it is the Mk27 version of ht mod54 I have, I use inversion agitaion, but I also "twist" it every time I invert it. Get even development, but scratches.

[TimHenrion]

Thanks for all the input guys. I'll look into the 2509 reel and tank. I believe it is the Mk27 version of ht mod54 I have, I use inversion agitaion, but I also "twist" it every time I invert it. Get even development, but scratches.

Hi Saus,
If you've got a MOD54 that is made from a bunch of flat translucent pieces glued together, you've got an old one. If your MOD54 is opaque and made from four cast sections stacked together, you've got a Mk27.

What kind of film are you using where you're getting scratches? The one thing that people I've talked to have in common with me who are getting success with the MOD54 is that they're using Ilford film. Ilford B&W film appears to have a thicker base material (making it stiffer and less likely to dislodge under heavy agitation) and also has a pre-hardened emulsion making it more resilient against scratches. I've haven't had any scratches on a hundred or so sheets of FP4+ or HP5+ run through my Mk27's. If you're using a non pre-hardened emulsion like Foma, I can envision that you might be more susceptible to scratches although I've never tried that film myself.

[Saus]

I have the Mk27, and I have been using HP5+ and Delta 100. I got less scratches on the Delta 100, but that was after I modified the holder. I noticed there was a 3mm gap between the film and the holder at the top/bottom (floor/ceiling). I glued a Q-tip (without the pads) to the bottom, so that the film rested on those instead. This made the gap a lot smaller, but it was still there and I still got small scratches.