Delta 100 and Pyrocat-HD

[LuisR]

Has anyone here developed Delta 100 with Pyrocat-HD? This is my now favored developer and I have been using FP4+ with good results. I have read very positive experiences with Delta 100 and Xtol but nothing with any variant of a Pyro developer and this film. Before I purchase a box of 4x5, I would like to hear any positive comments concerning the Delta 100 / Pyrocat-HD combination. Thank you.

[Robert Oliver]

I just started playing with that combo... Looks good so far. Will try a post an example soon.

[C. D. Keth]

I've found it good. It's a little trickier to hit the sweet spot than with FP4+, but a little more spectacular when you do. My magic time in tubes at 1:1 and 70F is 11 minutes. That's exposing at 80 speed.

These (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cdketh/tags/delta100/) are all 4x5 delta 100 developed in pyrocat HD mixed 1:1.

Here's a few of what you'll find in that link:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8500/8298970342_56fc9c7066_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cdketh/8298970342/)
Reaching Palm; 2012 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cdketh/8298970342/) by CKeth (http://www.flickr.com/people/cdketh/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8348/8275834533_7302ee0da2_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cdketh/8275834533/)
Architectural Abstract 3; 2012 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cdketh/8275834533/) by CKeth (http://www.flickr.com/people/cdketh/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8435/8005214710_161a68df93_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cdketh/8005214710/)
Employee Entrance; 2012 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cdketh/8005214710/) by CKeth (http://www.flickr.com/people/cdketh/), on Flickr

[LuisR]

Chris, nice photos!!!!!! Based on your experience with this combo do you recommend iso 80 instead of 100? I would be using the MOD54/Patterson tank combo so my development times would have to be adjusted significantly to what you use in the tubes.

[Marko Trebusak]

In the past I used this combination exclusevelly. I went a bit lower than Chris and used ISO 64, but my tests aren't all that rigorous.

[photobymike]

I have been using Pyrocat HD Glycol with with delta 100 and 400 as well Tmax 100 and 400. And depending on what i am shooting i always over expose by at least a half stop and as much as a full stop on portraits ....


1. Use pipettes to measure. This stuff is so concentrated that being off a small amount effects your out come.

2. I presoak for 5 minutes at development temperature. I change out the water 2 or 3 times for the presoak. It is needed to wash away the halation barrier. This has always been important... use distilled water... the PH is slightly acid which is ok... tap water who knows what it is.....

3. Use rubber gloves when handling this substance. If you use it a lot, it can accumulate in your system and be toxic.

4. Use distilled water for mixing. I use distilled water for all of my photo chemicals anyway.

5. The negatives scan really well with my scanner V750 epson. I seem to have a longer dynamic range by at least one stop.

6. I use a Beseler roller for development... but it seems to like stand alone tank with moderate agitation...twirl the reels in my paterson tanks.....4x5 always are rolled....

7. Dilute your Stop Bath... to strong and you get pin holes. Use a stop bath to get the film ready for the acid in your fixer. Some photo guys use just water for the stop bath... but i have found that just a little acid stop works better. i use alkli fixer especially for T-grain films.. for an extra 3 minutes. I have also used Kodak rapid fixer without the hardener works well. Fix for an extra 3 minutes for a total of 8 minutes

8. When you get ready to mix your developer. Roll your bottles of concentrate before using... there seems to be some separation and precipitate on the cap after sitting for a couple of days. Do not shake but make sure concentrate is mixed.

9. Because of the tanning (hardening effect) of the developer it seems the emulsion needs more washing than normal film.... i use very strong hypo clear (Orbit) for 2 minutes each in 2 baths with vigorous agitation.

10. I take the film off the reels and soak for 30 secs in Photo-Flo. Most important; I use distilled water to mix Photo-Flo. If you use regular water or tap water you will see a sledge or slim on your finished negs... The i use a very clean sponge to wipe away the excess Photo-Flo.

I do all of this and what i end up with is beautiful chocolate colored negatives that scan really well.

Any thing to add to these observations, or maybe some questions.

[C. D. Keth]

The rigor of my system couldn't be more different than photobymike's for the same film and developer combination! I use a tiny grad to measure concentrate, no pipettes though I probably should adopt that practice. I don't presoak. I use plain water for stop and I use distilled water for developer and photoflo mixing and tap water for everything else.

I tested exposure at 50, 64, 80, 100, and, just for the hell of it, 125. I was happiest with 80. I can't really predict what you'll like best.

[LuisR]

The rigor of my system couldn't be more different than photobymike's for the same film and developer combination! I use a tiny grad to measure concentrate, no pipettes though I probably should adopt that practice. I don't presoak. I use plain water for stop and I use distilled water for developer and photoflo mixing and tap water for everything else.

I tested exposure at 50, 64, 80, 100, and, just for the hell of it, 125. I was happiest with 80. I can't really predict what you'll like best.

Chris, took the plunge and purchased a box of Delta 100 and will experiment with iso 80 and 100, once the few sheets I have left of FP4+ run out.

[LuisR]

I have been using Pyrocat HD Glycol with with delta 100 and 400 as well Tmax 100 and 400. And depending on what i am shooting i always over expose by at least a half stop and as much as a full stop on portraits ....


1. Use pipettes to measure. This stuff is so concentrated that being off a small amount effects your out come.

2. I presoak for 5 minutes at development temperature. I change out the water 2 or 3 times for the presoak. It is needed to wash away the halation barrier. This has always been important... use distilled water... the PH is slightly acid which is ok... tap water who knows what it is.....

3. Use rubber gloves when handling this substance. If you use it a lot, it can accumulate in your system and be toxic.

4. Use distilled water for mixing. I use distilled water for all of my photo chemicals anyway.

5. The negatives scan really well with my scanner V750 epson. I seem to have a longer dynamic range by at least one stop.

6. I use a Beseler roller for development... but it seems to like stand alone tank with moderate agitation...twirl the reels in my paterson tanks.....4x5 always are rolled....

7. Dilute your Stop Bath... to strong and you get pin holes. Use a stop bath to get the film ready for the acid in your fixer. Some photo guys use just water for the stop bath... but i have found that just a little acid stop works better. i use alkli fixer especially for T-grain films.. for an extra 3 minutes. I have also used Kodak rapid fixer without the hardener works well. Fix for an extra 3 minutes for a total of 8 minutes

8. When you get ready to mix your developer. Roll your bottles of concentrate before using... there seems to be some separation and precipitate on the cap after sitting for a couple of days. Do not shake but make sure concentrate is mixed.

9. Because of the tanning (hardening effect) of the developer it seems the emulsion needs more washing than normal film.... i use very strong hypo clear (Orbit) for 2 minutes each in 2 baths with vigorous agitation.

10. I take the film off the reels and soak for 30 secs in Photo-Flo. Most important; I use distilled water to mix Photo-Flo. If you use regular water or tap water you will see a sledge or slim on your finished negs... The i use a very clean sponge to wipe away the excess Photo-Flo.

I do all of this and what i end up with is beautiful chocolate colored negatives that scan really well.

Any thing to add to these observations, or maybe some questions.

Some comments:
1- I use a small graduate marked in 1ml increments that works well.

2- Have been using FP4+ without presoaking and halation layer comes off during processing without any problems.

3- I do the same.

4- Have been using tap water which comes from a municipal well with no problems.

5- Use Epson 4990 and works well scanning a 4x5 at 2520 yields a 1.1G tiff file.

6- Use a MOD54/Patterson tank; problems with this combo are minimized if you process 6 sheets at a time.

7- Use two 30 sec. water rinses with no problem. I did the same when I was using Rodinal and experienced no problems. Have experimented with conventional fixer and Acros100 developed in Pyrocat-HD Glycol and the stain appears to not be washed off. Concerned about experimenting with this on 6 sheets of film.

8- Need to check that but so far the Pyrocat-HD Glycol I use seems to be well mixed.

9- Have read several places that hypo clear is not recommended with Pyro as this will wash off the stain. I was the sheets for 20 min in constantly changing water.

10- I do the same.

[mcfactor]

I shoot delta 100 developed in wd2d+ in 8x10 and I love it. The tones are amazing and it is incredibly sharp.