In search of developer

[macandal]

Hello. I'm looking for a new film developer. I started with D-76 and then moved on to HC-110. I liked both; they were good developers. The problem I had with D-76 was that, once the stock solution was made, I had to use it rather quickly before it went bad. I believe its shelf life was about 6 months, which may seem like a lot of time, but, once life takes over (and I'm not a professional photographer, meaning that I have to "find" the time to get to the darkroom), 6 months may go by faster than one would imagine. So I moved to HC-110. What I liked about it was that I didn't have to make a stock solution. I worked directly from the syrupy concentrate and diluted it with water to use only what I needed. However, HC-110 didn't work well with some types of film. In other words, it's not too versatile. I am looking for suggestions for another developer. Closer to HC-110 than D-76. What I mean by this is that I want a developer that I don't have to make a stock solution from. I want a developer where I can work directly from the concentrate and only mix what I'm going to need at any particular moment.

Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks.

[jnantz]

sprint film developer comes in a concentrate that you mix 1:9 with water.
it works well. and i have used it on + off since 1981 without any issues ..

if you don't mind mixing your own concentrate, ansco 130 is a great film developer
you mix a batch it lasts for about a year in a stock solution,
you pour off a little to develop your film ( 1:6 - 1:10 depending on what you like )
its not pre made though, that is the difference i guess ..

good luck !
john

[Mark Barendt]

D-76 is a whopping $5.79 for a bag to make a gallon at Adorama today. So what if you toss half a batch at the end of 6 months?

[Bill_1856]

Rodinal lasts forever.

[David Schaller]

PyroCat HD. Mix from the liquid each time. Shelf life of years.

[Leigh]

Rodinal* and Diafine are both excellent developers with essentially eternal shelf life.

Note that both of these are compensating developers.
They want very minimal agitation, meaning they don't like rotary (Jobo or similar) processing.

Diafine has a fixed development time (5 minutes for each solution A and B) regardless of temperature.
You replenish it by adding fresh solution A in the amount lost in processing to its bottle, then adding
that same amount of fresh solution B to its bottle. Discard any excess used B.

DO NOT use a pre-wash with Diafine. Solution A must be introduced to a dry emulsion so it can be absorbed.

Rodinal is used as a 1:25 or 1:50 one-shot. The concentrate keeps forever**. You can pre-wash if desired. I always do.

- Leigh

*Due to trademark issues, Rodinal is not available under that name, but you'll find it as R09 and possibly other names.
**NB - We've had reports of Rodinal concentrate over 50 years old working as good as new.

[Bill Burk]

I have greatly exceeded 6 months time with full, stoppered bottles of D-76. Only one or two times in my life did the developer die on me completely due to neglect. I can't imagine a better developer for an occasional darkroom user. If it's over 6 months old, just dip a scrap of film in it. If it turns black, it's probably still good.

p.s. I work for Kodak, but the opinions and positions I take are my own and not necessarily those of EKC.

[evan clarke]

D76 gains contrast as it gets old. An alternate formula, D76H, omits hydroquinone and ups Metol to 2.5g per liter. It has great keeping qualities and the raw ingredients are cheap, easy to find and the stuff can be stirred up fresh in minutes..


Distilled Water (125 degrees F) . . . . . . . 750 ml
Metol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 g
Sodium Sulfite (Anhydrous) . . . . . . . . . . 100 g
Borax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 g
Cold Water to make . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 ltr


I have a Borax ocd issue and have taken to using 20 Mule Team from the store..gives me the willies but seems to work the best...

[photobymike]

D76 is a good developer so is HC110. Pyrocat HD is great but comes with some contact causions. Sounds like to me that you need a developer that matchs your lifestyle. I personally use Tmax RS because most of my developing is 4x5 film in jobo tanks. Here is an excellent article on choosing a developer http://lavidaleica.com/content/choosing-bw-film-developer not as easy as you thought.

[Brian Ellis]

I used D-76 for many years. I bought four or five small bottles, enough to hold a gallon of stock solution. I filled each to the brim and capped them. The stock in full bottles was good for longer than 6 months and I used up the partially-filled bottle sooner than 6 months. I also never found the gain in contrast that Evan mentions with either the full bottles or the partially full bottle. If it was occurring at all it wasn't enough to notice and didn't change any of my tested times.

I seem to remember reading somewhere that exposure to light is actually more detrimental to shelf life than having a partially full bottle. For that reason I used opaque bottles and kept them in a cabinet.

[C_Remington]

D-76 is a whopping $5.79 for a bag to make a gallon at Adorama today. So what if you toss half a batch at the end of 6 months?

That's was my first thought too.

Second thought was, why are you switching flims so often that you would run into one that "doesn't work" with HC110. And what do you mean it "doesn't work" with HC110. And what film could that possibly be?

Third thought was, Rodinal. But, that "may not work" with some films too right?

[Ken Lee]

If you mix your own formulas, you can guarantee freshness every time.

D-23 (http://www.kenleegallery.com/html/tech/D-23.php) is even simpler than D-76: it has only 2 ingredients. It works very nicely.

For a developer with many good qualities and extremely long shelf-life, consider one of the Pyrocat HD (http://www.pyrocat-hd.com) formulas mixed in Glycol instead of water. It's a 2-part formulation like HC-110 (a syrup), but has proportional staining/tanning qualities that reduce grain and improve acutance.

[macandal]

Do you guys have any experience with:

Aculux 3
Emofin Liquid
Ilfosol S
Microdol X
T Max Dev
Ultrafin
These are all liquid developers that I can mix what I need when I need it, I believe.

Thanks.

[evan clarke]

Instead of D76H? Buy a few chems and mix your own.


Do you guys have any experience with:

Aculux 3
Emofin Liquid
Ilfosol S
Microdol X
T Max Dev
Ultrafin
These are all liquid developers that I can mix what I need when I need it, I believe.

Thanks.

[Lenny Eiger]

Aren't we missing something here? Developer is good for what? What kind of prints do you want to make, with what process?

I am a fan of finest grain and full sharpness. photobymike's link points me to Xtol, which is what I also concluded. Testing pyro next... have high hopes. D-76 is not in the same category, nor is HC-110, IMO. Personally, I think Rodinal is liquid disaster (and unfortunately I have the negs to prove it). I don't know how anyone could use it, yet it seems to be a cult following...

Lenny

[invisibleflash]

I never tried this, but can one divide D-76 powder into quarters and mix up a portion at a time? Or is there an issue with the powder not being equal potentcy with division?

[Leigh]

I never tried this, but can one divide D-76 powder into quarters and mix up a portion at a time?
No.
You can't do that with any powdered concentrate that has more than one component.

That's because you can't guarantee equal division of each constituent.

If you mix product from individual ingredients you can scale the final volume however you wish.

- Leigh

[Leigh]

Personally, I think Rodinal is liquid disaster (and unfortunately I have the negs to prove it).
Given that innumerable photographers have used Rodinal for over 100 years,

I think any unsatisfactory results are not the fault of the product.

- Leigh

[StoneNYC]

Do you guys have any experience with:

Aculux 3
Emofin Liquid
Ilfosol S
Microdol X
T Max Dev
Ultrafin
These are all liquid developers that I can mix what I need when I need it, I believe.

Thanks.

Ilfsol S is the OLD version of Ilfsol 3, and Ilfsol 3 is similar with better shelf life, but once opened the concentrate only has a shelf life of 3-6 months.

The developer however produces REALLY good results with any film 400ASA and slower, but is not good for 3200 speed films.

If you like HC-110 or D-76 why aren't you just mixing that as you need it? I don't quite understand your issues.

Also you said HC-110 doesn't work with everything... What does that mean?

Also don't ignore Rodinal (Adox Adonal is the "version" I use but R09 is the same I believe).

[jnantz]

If you mix your own formulas, you can guarantee freshness every time.

D-23 (http://www.kenleegallery.com/html/tech/D-23.php) is even simpler than D-76: it has only 2 ingredients. It works very nicely.


+1 for ease and simplicity .. works with everything ...

[polyglot]

I'm also puzzled as to where HC-110 doesn't work. I mean, I'm not a fan of the stuff but I've never known it to outright fail or produce grossly bad results. Did you accidentally develop some film with insufficient syrup (6mL/roll IIRC) for proper development? Maybe leave some working-solution out too long and it got oxidised?

Rodinal is (IMHO) like HC-110 but more extreme in most ways: it lasts forever, reveals all the grain there is to be seen in the film and gives relatively poor film speed. It is, however, more flexible, which can be good or bad depending on what you want.

To make some simplistic overgeneralisations about these developers:
- D76 lets you vary sharpness/smoothness via dilution
- Rodinal lets you vary the characteristic curve via dilution & agitation
- HC-110 doesn't really vary much in behaviour with dilution so is convenient for BTZS because you can do huge expansions/contractions without getting to crazy-long or -short dev times or changing the look much

If you like the look of D76, try a bag of Xtol. It's better in basically every way (film speed, grain smoothness, resolution; has similar solvent variation with dilution) and costs about the same. If you're discarding some of your D76 from age, you'll be discarding even more Xtol though (bigger pack size, more concentrated).

[Leigh]

Rodinal ... lasts forever, reveals all the grain there is to be seen in the film and gives relatively poor film speed. It is, however, more flexible, which can be good or bad depending on what you want.
Rodinal provides high acutance, which will tend to accentuate grain. It's not recommended for faster films.

I shoot no film faster than ASA 100.
I always use the largest format (up to 8x10) possible in the situation, so grain is generally not an issue.

- Leigh

[Ken Lee]

Several BTZS testers have a high regard for Ilford DD-X (http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/product.asp?n=31), particularly because it gives higher film speed than most standard formulas. It's a liquid formulation too.

[paulr]

If you stick with D-76 you can also get some added life by keeping it in dark glass bottles. The standard plastic photo chem bottles aren't completely impermeable to oxygen.

[Sal Santamaura]

...If you're discarding some of your D76 from age, you'll be discarding even more Xtol though (bigger pack size, more concentrated).Actually, when mixed and stored properly, XTOL stock solution lasts much longer than D-76. The latter's pH changes in storage; activity differs measurably after one month. See here


http://www.apug.org/forums/viewpost.php?p=1481775

how to keep XTOL for at least a year.

[Lenny Eiger]

Given that innumerable photographers have used Rodinal for over 100 years,

I think any unsatisfactory results are not the fault of the product.

- Leigh

i suppose we have to define unsatisfactory. I certainly did get negatives that look like well-developed Rodinal negs.

However, I am not a fan of grain, sharp grain or not. I was shooting med format at the time and the grains showed up in the prints. Since they were going next to the other format I was shooting, namely 8x10, and contact printing, they looked bad (my opinion).

Rodinal is grainy. The grains are sharp-looking as they are etched with lye or a similar caustic agent. Super activated, as it were. If you like that look, there is nothing wrong with it. However, if you don't like the look, well, you don't. It's quite a definite choice. I don't see it as a all-purpose developer for everyone, as most people I have met don't like the look.

When it comes to scanning, the grains stick out like sore thumbs and it's not smooth. If you want smooth, all the other choices are better. Darkroom printing usually shows some grain, its expected. However, when you look at good b&w inkjet prints, well, let's just say grainy isn't an effect I go for...

Lenny

[benrains]

Rodinal is grainy. The grains are sharp-looking as they are etched with lye or a similar caustic agent. Super activated, as it were. If you like that look, there is nothing wrong with it. However, if you don't like the look, well, you don't. It's quite a definite choice. I don't see it as a all-purpose developer for everyone, as most people I have met don't like the look.

It's definitely grainy, and I'd not use it with roll film unless I had no other alternative (it is great for push processing.) But I actually like the look of it for my large format portrait work or pictorialist landscapes. And it's been great for those times when I need to push Ilford HP5+ to EI 800 or 1600 because of dim natural light. I also find it to be extremely forgiving when working under less than ideal conditions--like those in my frigid cellar darkroom in the dead of winter. I wouldn't recommend it as a general purpose developer for the average photographer though.

[Leigh]

Since they were going next to the other format I was shooting, namely 8x10, and contact printing, they looked bad (my opinion).
What film were you shooting?
Rodinal is definitely not a first choice for faster films (over 100 ASA).

As with most products, it works well for its intended use, and poorly for other uses.

- Leigh

[Gary L. Quay]

From Photographers Formulary:
http://stores.photoformulary.com/-strse-80/Developer-BW-dsh-44-Liquid-Film/Detail.bok

I also like Clayton F76+ It's similar to Ilford ID-11.
http://www.digitaltruth.com/store/cart/Clayton-F76-Film-Dev-12x-32-oz.html

Good luck!

[photobymike]

Pick a film and the developer, then get to know how to make it do what you want.... If you want to be good at BW you need to practice with a combination that works for you. I can tell you from experience that some film and developer combinations are harder to get what you want. I can tell you the best and most forgiving combination for me has been tmax 400 4x5 and pryocat hd ...it scans the best for me... I am now trying 4x5 Ilford HP+ rated at 800 using TMAX RS developer... I have heard good things about Ilford HP+ .... You do it for awhile and you will find the sweet spot for great pictures...

[Andrew O'Neill]

For conventional developers try Rodinal. For staining developers, pyrocat-hd, stock solution A mixed with propylene glycol. Last indefinite.

[Eric Biggerstaff]

I use Rodina/Adonal/R90 with Ilford FP4+ and Delta 100 and am very fond of the look. I dilute 1+50 and use a Jobo 3010 drum and the negs are great. I use 5X7 and 4X5 and have no issue with grain. I am also a big fan of Ilford DDX, very nice with Tmax and Delta films.

I like Xtol but have come to hate powder developers and chemicals. To extend life of stock developers mixed from powders (or any other chemicals), place your stock into empty wine bottles about to the top then buy one of those little things that have the rubber stoppers and suction pump to evacuate the air from the bottle. Chemicals stay fresh for a VERY long time.

Eric

[Lenny Eiger]

What film were you shooting?
Rodinal is definitely not a first choice for faster films (over 100 ASA).

As with most products, it works well for its intended use, and poorly for other uses.

- Leigh

If you like that look then its great. But it ruins it for the smoother look... If you do anything with scanning, for example, you can always add grain and contrast. But you can't take it away. I've seen plenty of it on the scanner. I usually have to work pretty hard to get them something useful.

Lenny

[Michael E]

Just a few thoughts, no new suggestions:

The requirements of scanning or traditional printing are different. In my enlarger, I prefer dense, contrasty negatives. In my scanner not so much. I love Rodinal for the former.

Mixing chemicals from scratch gets a lot more difficult for smaller quantities. For a liter of D23 in 1:1 dilution, you need 3.75g of Metol. It's not easy to stay within the tolerances.

There are a lot of ways to extend the shelf life of your developer (to add one that has not been mentioned: Tetenal Protectan spray leaves a layer of a heavy gas on top of the developer and protects it from oxygen). But there is only one way to give you peace of mind when you want to put important images into old developer - run a test roll/sheet.

Michael

[Ken Lee]

For a liter of D23 in 1:1 dilution, you need 3.75g of Metol. It's not easy to stay within the tolerances.

The difference of +/- 1/10 gram of Metol may not matter too much. The Metol itself may vary in strength, and if we consider the accuracy and repeatability of shutter speed, f-stop, light meter, thermometer, agitation, etc. we find a lot of variables in play.

[Mark Barendt]

Several BTZS testers have a high regard for Ilford DD-X (http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/product.asp?n=31), particularly because it gives higher film speed than most standard formulas. It's a liquid formulation too.

DD-X is my main developer, BTZS or ZS or not, it's nice.

XTol replenished was my main developer before DD-X, D-76 before that.

Looking back I can see that the switch from D-76 to XTol was mostly about wanting to try something different. The real advantage I found in XTol really wasn't about differences in the image, those differences are pretty small AFAIAC; it was about convenience, replenished XTol is easy to scale to the project at hand, the number of films in a batch and tank size doesn't matter in a replenished system.

My motivation when I made the switch from XTol to DD-X was similar to the OP's move away from D-76, in the sense that I wasn't using my XTol fast enough to keep the stock fresh.

Convenience won again, DD-X is as convenient as it gets and ~$20 for 4-6 months of fun is a bargain in my book. The 1+4 mix means no syringes or extra measuring tools, a normal beaker appropriate for the batch size is perfectly fine for measure and mixing, just pour the water in and top with DD-X, done.

Also, every normal B&W film that I've tried works well in DD-X. Like XTol and D-76 it is truly reliable.

The other developer that I've been playing with is WD2D+, my growing opinion is that it is really nice with slower films (Delta 100, FP4+...) but for me it has been a struggle to get what I want using it with faster films.

[Regular Rod]

510-PYRO will give you fine grain, control of highlights (it's a compensating developer), economy (1:100 to 1:500 dilutions), semi-stand development and amazing shelf life. You mix it yourself and you end up with a syrup that is easy to measure out when making your working solutions. The concentrate keeps for years.

510-Pyro Formula (http://www.digitaltruth.com/data/article-stainingdev.php)

ascorbic acid 5g
pyrogallol 10g
phenidone .25g
Triethanolamine 100ml


RR

[invisibleflash]

I used D-76 for many years. I bought four or five small bottles, enough to hold a gallon of stock solution. I filled each to the brim and capped them. The stock in full bottles was good for longer than 6 months and I used up the partially-filled bottle sooner than 6 months. I also never found the gain in contrast that Evan mentions with either the full bottles or the partially full bottle. If it was occurring at all it wasn't enough to notice and didn't change any of my tested times.

I seem to remember reading somewhere that exposure to light is actually more detrimental to shelf life than having a partially full bottle. For that reason I used opaque bottles and kept them in a cabinet.

I'm thinking of making a concentrate of D-76 and diluting it like Rodinal. Anyone try that?

[Leigh]

I'm thinking of making a concentrate of D-76...
That won't change its shelf life.

Putting it in multiple small brown bottles filled to the brim (no air) and kept in dark storage might extend it somewhat.

Refrigerating the concentrate might also extend its shelf life, but could complicate mixing the working solution.

- Leigh

[Mark Barendt]

Again I wonder, why in the world it is that tossing half a batch of D-76 (or whatever) at the end of 6 months is such a hang up?

I'm not suggesting being wasteful purposely, I'm suggesting that it is a false economy trying to save $2 worth of developer.

Really, why in the world would I risk 10 sheets of film at a buck or two or more a sheet, that I spent $40 in gas driving to location and back, that I spent 8 hours of my life getting, that I carried a 4x5 kit down a 40' drop to the beach and back, that I'll spend $25 on paper to print, ..., all to avoid buying a $5.79 bag of developer and a gallon of distilled water.

I just don't get it.

[Light Guru]

Again I wonder, why in the world it is that tossing half a batch of D-76 (or whatever) at the end of 6 months is such a hang up?

I'm not suggesting being wasteful purposely, I'm suggesting that it is a false economy trying to save $2 worth of developer.

Really, why in the world would I risk 10 sheets of film at a buck or two or more a sheet, that I spent $40 in gas driving to location and back, that I spent 8 hours of my life getting, that I carried a 4x5 kit down a 40' drop to the beach and back, that I'll spend $25 on paper to print, ..., all to avoid buying a $5.79 bag of developer and a gallon of distilled water.

I just don't get it.

LOL well said. At $6 a bag that's $1 a month for the 6 month life of D-76. That's less then 4 cents a day.

If the cost of mixing up a new batch of D-76 is a problem then you should not be shooting large format film.

[polyglot]

D76 will oxidise from the oxygen dissolved in the water, so reportedly it keeps best when made up from boiled (low-oxygen) water and refrigerated. I know someone who does the little-bottles-in-the-fridge thing and he reckons it works very well.

I find it simpler to just make up Xtol and keep it in an aluminised mylar bladder (the 10L water cube that I used to make up the dev). I generally use up the 5L in about 9mo or so (quicker if I do a big holiday) and it's always working perfectly when it runs out.

[Mark Barendt]

Polyglot it is my understanding that all the developers that have been mixed to stock solution have the same oxidation issues, not just D-76. The lack of water inclded is one reason that HC-110 and Rodinal last so long as concentrates.

I too use Mylar bags to store my developers and have used XTol well past the 6 month mark. I'd guess D-76 would be similar, neither are simply going to stop working on the first day of month seven. It may be that developers like these simply lose effectiveness at a standard rate like 1 or 2 or ... percent per month and that at the six month point they will be outside the manufacturer's tolerance.

As to keeping the chemicals cold, if you reach a temperature where you get a phase change for any of the ingredients you may have things drop out of solution.

[invisibleflash]

Again I wonder, why in the world it is that tossing half a batch of D-76 (or whatever) at the end of 6 months is such a hang up?

I'm not suggesting being wasteful purposely, I'm suggesting that it is a false economy trying to save $2 worth of developer.

Really, why in the world would I risk 10 sheets of film at a buck or two or more a sheet, that I spent $40 in gas driving to location and back, that I spent 8 hours of my life getting, that I carried a 4x5 kit down a 40' drop to the beach and back, that I'll spend $25 on paper to print, ..., all to avoid buying a $5.79 bag of developer and a gallon of distilled water.

I just don't get it.

I'm using it for small batches of Widelux 35mm. I don't shoot BW that often. I shoot more color than BW. I'm more concerend with pollution than the $. If I can save sending some down the drain I will.

[invisibleflash]

D76 will oxidise from the oxygen dissolved in the water, so reportedly it keeps best when made up from boiled (low-oxygen) water and refrigerated. I know someone who does the little-bottles-in-the-fridge thing and he reckons it works very well.

I find it simpler to just make up Xtol and keep it in an aluminised mylar bladder (the 10L water cube that I used to make up the dev). I generally use up the 5L in about 9mo or so (quicker if I do a big holiday) and it's always working perfectly when it runs out.


I've always uses sink water. I was wondering if distilled water would be better. (I was thinking cleaner water and no city chemicals more so than no oxygen in the water.)

Where do you buy the mylar bags for developers?

[Sal Santamaura]

Actually, when mixed and stored properly, XTOL stock solution lasts much longer than D-76. The latter's pH changes in storage; activity differs measurably after one month. See here


http://www.apug.org/forums/viewpost.php?p=1481775

how to keep XTOL for at least a year.I guess rather than including a link, repeating what's posted elsewhere is necessary to ensure participants in this thread actually read what I wrote. :)


I don't [store XTOL with Dust-off], nor do I use any other gas. Instead, I've purchased these bottles:


http://www.capitolscientific.com/125...ied-300-Series

They're glass with teflon-lined caps. After mixing five liters of XTOL (using distilled water), I fill 20 of the bottles to their tops, then cap securely. No oxygen is in or can enter the bottles. Each one constitutes a single film development run and is used in its entirety at one time. XTOL does develop a white, filimentary precipitate after a while, even when it was mixed using distilled water, but pouring through a coffee filter eliminates that very easily. I've used XTOL stored this way for a year with no difference between exposure or contrast indices of the resulting negatives compared to those developed with freshly mixed XTOL.

A one-time, lifetime investment. No squeezing, no gas, no marbles, no fuss, no muss. :D

[Mark Barendt]

I'm using it for small batches of Widelux 35mm. I don't shoot BW that often. I shoot more color than BW. I'm more concerend with pollution than the $. If I can save sending some down the drain I will.

As I understand it most, not all, developers can be "treated" for disposal with sunlight and air, basically set it out like sun tea with a screen over it instead of a lid.

There are also 1-liter kits http://www.adorama.com/KKD76L.html

[polyglot]

I've always uses sink water. I was wondering if distilled water would be better. (I was thinking cleaner water and no city chemicals more so than no oxygen in the water.)

Where do you buy the mylar bags for developers?

Cleaner water is definitely better, and Xtol seems to be particularly susceptible to iron in the water: if you make it up from Adelaide tap water, it will be completely dead the next day. IMHO you don't need the ultra-clean steam-distilled stuff, deionised is fine and even high-quality drinking water (depending on mineral content) should be OK. I use the latter since it's $3.50/10L vs about $6/4L (deionised) here, and as mentioned above I get at least 9mo shelf life from it.

Since I buy my water in the 10L bag-in-box things, I just use those for storing the developer stock solution and there's a row of them under my darkroom sink (Xtol, RA4, HCA). It's about as good as totally-full HDPE or PETE bottles, far better than LDPE (the soft stuff, which is highly gas-permeable and should never be used to store developer).

My C41/E6 devs live under butane in PETE in the fridge.

[Sal Santamaura]

...IMHO you don't need the ultra-clean steam-distilled stuff, deionised is fine and even high-quality drinking water (depending on mineral content) should be OK. I use the latter since it's $3.50/10L vs about $6/4L (deionised) here...The OP is in San Francisco. I can't guarantee, but highly suspect, that the same national chain supermarkets there as here offer the same Arrowhead brand steam-distilled water at about the same price charged here. A 2-1/2 gallon container costs $3.19. Given that availability, I won't mix XTOL with any less pure water.

[Reinhold Schable]

I'll switch gears a bit and put in a plug for UFG...
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/65336-ufg-developer.html

Reinhold

[Eric Biggerstaff]

Another option I forgot about is Clayton F76, I have used it and like it very much. It is marketed as a lquid concentrate version of D76. I use a number of different Clayton chemicals and have found all very good. Their P20 developer is my primary paper developer and their Archival Fix is excellent.

[John Kasaian]

Another option is to shoot 8x10 film. You'll use so much that your chemicals will appear to vanish right before your eyes, so you won't have to worry about the shelf life of your stock solution.:o

[Jim Galli]

Wow, 6 pages on this. What you need to do is go to the Massive Development Chart (http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php) and try ALL the developers and times and mixes for your film choice. Then ultimately you'll wind up at D76 and write a date on the bottle, and throw it away after 6 months.

But just to blur the waters even more, at home I use PyrocatHD and love it. Mix it myself. Lasts forever. Cheap cheap cheap. But at work, all I have is a bag of questionable ancestry Dektol. So if I develop b/w film at work, I mix 1 gram / 100 ml H2O, enough to cover the film, pour it in after a pre-soak, swish for 30 seconds and walk away from it for about 18 minutes. Stand development. Then I throw it away. Doesn't get any cheaper than that, and the grain and curve are really pretty nice. Aerial Recon Plus X.

[paulr]

I use a film developer with glycin in it. It keeps a very long time in its stock solution. A curiosity with this chemical since its shelf life as a dry powder is abysmal. No one has explained to me the cause of this backwards behavior.

I just bring up to suggest that some formulas do seem to oxidize more rapidly than others. Factors may include developing agents, preservative levels, ph, and solution concentration.

[photobymike]

Another option is to shoot 8x10 film. You'll use so much that your chemicals will appear to vanish right before your eyes, so you won't have to worry about the shelf life of your stock solution.:o

LOL yea also your wallet will appear to vanish also..... has anyone ever used 777 Panthermic film developer? http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?23871-Anyone-use-777-Panthermic-film-developer

98021

[Roger Thoms]

Another option is to shoot 8x10 film. You'll use so much that your chemicals will appear to vanish right before your eyes, so you won't have to worry about the shelf life of your stock solution.:o

How true, how true. I usually use Pyrocat HD but am out of town and shooting 8x10. Wanted to process my film and was able to pick up a package of D76 at a local camera store and sure enough I'm just about through a gallon. So just one more reason to shoot 8x10.

As far as developer I've been very happy with Pyrocat HD in Glycol, which is easy to use and has very good shelf life.

Roger

Roger

[mbdiesel]

Wow. 6 pages just like Jim Galli remarked. I went through the same dilemma of throwing away stuff. Recently, I started making my own developers and couldn't be happier. I do not make a single cent from my photography. It's just for fun and at times I don't have anything to process for months.

I settled on 510-pyro, portrait pyro, and D-23.

[jnantz]

i usually process film for about 1¢ / sheet using a coffee based developer with about 1oz of ansco 130 in it .
stand develop for 30mins ... and reuse 2L of it for about 6months ... lasts about 200 sheets ( paper and film combined )
its almost as easy as jim's dektol trick ...

[polyglot]

this is worth noting (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/chasing-magic-bullet.html)...

[Hany Aziz]

sprint film developer comes in a concentrate that you mix 1:9 with water.
it works well. and i have used it on + off since 1981 without any issues ..

good luck !
john

Another vote for Sprint developer. Great, easy to use developer.

On the other hand, you can easily stick with D76 and just throw out the remainder after 6 months. It remains very inexpensive.