A couple camera building questions

[vinny]

I'm well into this 8x10 project and am now assembling the back. I've read the couple of threads that come up but.......
I have 300 Series SS Feeler Thickness Gauge 12" Length, .031" Thick from Mcmaster Carr to use for springs. I plan to double them up. I only bought four so I don't want to screw this up (I'll order more when I screw these up). http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/2272/=n5doci
1. What's the best way to bend the ends to fit over the pins in the ground glass frame? In a vise? Do I need heat? Will heat discolor the steel?

2. How much wiggle room should I leave in the back above/below the holder? My chamonix 4x5 and my old 8x10 had what I thought was too much resulting in what I call a sloppy fit. All my 8x10 holders are very similar, size-wise.

3. what do you guys use for pins (stainless) in the ground glass frame to catch the springs?

[Scott Walker]

Do not use heat, you will likely aneal the metal and that does not make for a good spring.
Stainless steel type 304 starts to turn yellow at around 300c and finally blue at 600c, 316 is very similar.

[Erik Larsen]

I've used these https://touch.ebay.com/tablet/item?itemId=230865958653&rd=vi if your attempt doesn't work. No need for the leaf. For shackles I've eased some pins I found at true value hardware and attached with a tiny cable holder that is u shaped with two screw holes on each end.

[Leigh]

I have 300 Series SS Feeler Thickness Gauge 12" Length, .031" Thick from Mcmaster Carr to use for springs.
Feeler gauges are not springs.

If you want springs, buy spring stock.

- Leigh

[vinny]

Feeler gauges are not springs.

If you want springs, buy spring stock.

- Leigh

correct, I read elsewhere that they work great on cameras and they ARE quite springy. Two other cameras I've owned which did use spring steel also did not hold the back tight to the camera in all four corners.
Now, can anyone answer my question?

[winterclock]

I used 1/8" type 304 stainless rod from mcmaster carr for the pins, it was less than 10 bucks for 6 feet!
I don't know how stiff the feeler gauge stock is, but for the brass on my 5X7 I used a large pair of round nosed chain pliers. They gave a real pretty radius to the bends.
Hope this helps,
James

[Tin Can]

You do know everybody's favorite Deardorff maker is selling the very parts you are making, including the pins. Check eBay.



I'm well into this 8x10 project and am now assembling the back. I've read the couple of threads that come up but.......
I have 300 Series SS Feeler Thickness Gauge 12" Length, .031" Thick from Mcmaster Carr to use for springs. I plan to double them up. I only bought four so I don't want to screw this up (I'll order more when I screw these up). http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/2272/=n5doci
1. What's the best way to bend the ends to fit over the pins in the ground glass frame? In a vise? Do I need heat? Will heat discolor the steel?

2. How much wiggle room should I leave in the back above/below the holder? My chamonix 4x5 and my old 8x10 had what I thought was too much resulting in what I call a sloppy fit. All my 8x10 holders are very similar, size-wise.

3. what do you guys use for pins (stainless) in the ground glass frame to catch the springs?

[vinny]

You do know everybody's favorite Deardorff maker is selling the very parts you are making, including the pins. Check eBay.
I have the parts and I intend to use them. I'm building all of the pieces I can, it's part of the experience.

[Tin Can]

I have 1/8" 304 and 303 round from McMaster. I can send you a few inches free.

If you want it.





QUOTE=vinny;1036266]I have the parts and I intend to use them. I'm building all of the pieces I can, it's part of the experience.[/QUOTE]

[Tin Can]

I have not yet built a ULF camera, but it's on the list. As a former professional fabricator, I found I always made things twice. Once the almost right way and the second time pretty damn good. I always buy all supplies in double quantities for this very problem.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Back springs - hacksaw blades cut to length.
So simple and effective.

[vinny]

Back springs - hacksaw blades cut to length.
So simple and effective.
and not stainless.
and not what i already have. I intend to use the parts mentioned in in my original post. I'm not looking for alternatives.

For the hell of it I put one of them in my vise, and bent it, finished it with a pair of pliers. Easiest thing in the world. thanks for the suggestions

[Colin Graham]

Off topic, but SS mud knives are a good alternative for easy-to-find stainless spring stock. It's a bitch to form, cut and drill- as spring stock generally is, but it's springy as hell.

For whatever it's worth, I ordered some 5x7 'Deardorff' springs on ebay, and it didn't seem like they were made from spring stock at all- it bent and creased a little the first time I checked the spring resistance. And I put nowhere near the force on it a bail back would.

[Tin Can]

That is good to know, perhaps he is selling defective stock...



Off topic, but SS mud knives are a good alternative for easy-to-find stainless spring stock. It's a bitch to cut and drill, but it's springy as hell.

For whatever it's worth, I ordered some 5x7 'Deardorff' springs on ebay, and it didn't seem like they were made from spring stock at all- it bent and creased a little the first time I checked the spring resistance. And I put nowhere near the force on it a bail back would.

[Bruce Barlow]

I'd ask Richard Ritter...

[vinny]

I'd ask Richard Ritter...

I've read about your mud knives, colin. Easy to come by.
Bruce, I've sent bruce unanswered emails in the past.

Not directed at Bruce-
I can figure out most things myself but thought I'd get some help from those that have more experience building cameras. Instead, I get a bunch of b.s. from guys who didn't read my questions.

[Colin Graham]

Well, you said it best yourself.


it's part of the experience.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Instead, I get a bunch of b.s. from guys who didn't read my questions.

We don't want you to fail, repeating our mistakes.