LF development without a darkroom

[msbarnes]

I'm interested in starting LF but I don't always have access to a darkroom...

Well, what are some ways to develop film? I'm interested in options for 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 but will probably start with 4x5. I see one popular but somewhat controversial option for 4x5 is the mod54, what are some other options and relative prices for the equipment.

Else, I am thinking of just making my bathroom into a temporary darkroom and going tray development. This seems like a hassle but the most conventional.

[Tin Can]

Bathroom.

I had some luck with ziplock baggy developing in a pinch.




I'm interested in starting LF but I don't always have access to a darkroom...

Well, what are some ways to develop film? I'm interested in options for 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 but will probably start with 4x5. I see one popular but somewhat controversial option for 4x5 is the mod54, what are some other options and relative prices for the equipment.

Else, I am thinking of just making my bathroom into a temporary darkroom and going tray development. This seems like a hassle but the most conventional.

[dodphotography]

I'm interested in starting LF but I don't always have access to a darkroom...

Well, what are some ways to develop film? I'm interested in options for 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 but will probably start with 4x5. I see one popular but somewhat controversial option for 4x5 is the mod54, what are some other options and relative prices for the equipment.

Else, I am thinking of just making my bathroom into a temporary darkroom and going tray development. This seems like a hassle but the most conventional.

I am in the same boat as you... really new to LF and while I have a darkroom, it really isn't a darkroom. I have zero ventilation and it's just a windowless attic room.

I am planning on developing via the "taco method" in a Patterson Super 4 Day Tank

[AnselAdamsX]

I use print drums to develop 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 film. I load them in a changing tent. I only need the bathroom darkroom to enlarge.

[David Beal]

If you are handy with a sewing machine (or know someone who is) and have a few dollars, you can greatly improve the standard taco method. Buy some black plastic screen material at the hardware store. From the sewing store, get a pack of blunt needles (used for sewing synthetic fabrics) and some medium gauge clear polyester thread (looks like small diameter fishing line). Cut the screen material into 6" x 7" pieces; fold it in half and sew the 2 long sides together so that you have a tube 7" long. The 4x5 film goes in there. To load (changing tent) put an empty pill bottle in the tube, gently roll the film (emulsion side in) longways, slip it in the pill bottle, and push the bottle and film into the tube. Gently withdraw the bottom part of the material from the tube, pull the tube out, and you're done. Do this in the light with a sheet of exposed film until you get the hang of it. If the pill bottle's diameter is on the small site put a 4"x5" piece of paper on top of the fim before you roll, so that one edge/corner doesn't scratch the emulsion.

A tank capable of holding 2x120 reels (volume 900-1000 ml.) will hold 6 of these sleeves. Since developer/stop/fixer reach all film surfaces (and the surfaces don't directly touch each other), the halation layer is completely removed.

For 6 sheets of HP5+ at ISO 200, 1 liter of 1->50 rodinal does the job.

Welcome to LF. Once you start, you'll know why some many photographers love it.

/s/ David

[Light Guru]

If you are handy with a sewing machine (or know someone who is) and have a few dollars, you can greatly improve the standard taco method. Buy some black plastic screen material at the hardware store. From the sewing store, get a pack of blunt needles (used for sewing synthetic fabrics) and some medium gauge clear polyester thread (looks like small diameter fishing line). Cut the screen material into 6" x 7" pieces; fold it in half and sew the 2 long sides together so that you have a tube 7" long. The 4x5 film goes in there. To load (changing tent) put an empty pill bottle in the tube, gently roll the film (emulsion side in) longways, slip it in the pill bottle, and push the bottle and film into the tube. Gently withdraw the bottom part of the material from the tube, pull the tube out, and you're done. Do this in the light with a sheet of exposed film until you get the hang of it. If the pill bottle's diameter is on the small site put a 4"x5" piece of paper on top of the fim before you roll, so that one edge/corner doesn't scratch the emulsion.

That just sounds like scratches waiting to happen.

[Light Guru]

Ive used both the mod54 and unicolor drums for daylight developing.

The mod54 is just simply unreliable with issues ranging from film coming out of place, to uneven development caused by the holder itself.

Unicolor drums are nice, they do give even development, but I've also had a few times where a piece of film slips under the divider and sticks on top of the one next to the piece of film next to it.

I have not tried one but it does look like the best day light option for developing 4x5, and that is the the Nikkor 4x5 tank
http://backglass.org/duncan/apug/nikor_4x5_01.jpg

I personally have gone to trays.

[IanG]

I don't think I've processed much film in a darkoom since about 1986, (except tray development of 10x8) I load the tanks in a darkroom if handy or a bathroom, toilet, cellar, a cupboard, where ever's dark, I like to process while away on trips. I've finally bought a large changing bag which I've yet to use (about a metre square).

For 5x4 I now use Jobo 2000 series tanks (pre rotatry), I have one in the UK and a second in Turkey, I'd used deep tanks for general use and a Jobo for specialist processingh since 1976. The great part about using a daylight tank is you process where you want once loaded, and I often process and cook at thesame time (separate work surfaces).

Ian

[jcoldslabs]

I often process and cook at the same time.

And I thought I was the only one....

Jonathan

[Tin Can]

It's all chemistry

[Daniel Stone]

JOBO 3010/3006 drums and a beseler motor base. easy peasy

[welly]

Paterson Orbital, taco method, mod54, jobo tanks, trays in bathroom (my choice - bathroom doesn't have windows and the door is light sealed), jobo processor. Loads of options, depending on how much you want to spend.

[Mark_S]

I use a Jobo, and the only thing you need to do in the dark is to load the film into the drums, which could easily be done in a changing tent or bag - you will need the bag or tent to load your film holders anyways.....

The jobo can also do your small format films.

[Bruce Barlow]

Go to Home Depot and get a piece of 2'x4' white melamine, and put it over your bathtub. Trays can go on the melamine, which is easier than ruining your back when you put trays on the bottom of the tub. Melamine cleans easily, and a 2x4 piece can be stored out of the way when you just really need that bubble bath. Works with 8x10 trays.

[Andrew O'Neill]

BTZS tubes.

[jp]

I'm kinda partial the combiplan tanks for 4x5. If I did a ton of 5x7 or 8x10, I'd consider jobo or btzs tubes.

[msbarnes]

I googled jobo and btzs tubes and those seem costly and I'm not convinced that the mod54 and taco style methods are all that great. I'll start with trays and then move onto something fancier when the time comes.

[welly]

I googled jobo and btzs tubes and those seem costly and I'm not convinced that the mod54 and taco style methods are all that great. I'll start with trays and then move onto something fancier when the time comes.

BTSZ set costs $164. Is that costly? Otherwise you can get the individual tubes for $20 each and a cheap and cheerful tray for a few bucks, if not free. But no harm in starting (and staying) with trays.

[Tin Can]

Trays work fine.


I googled jobo and btzs tubes and those seem costly and I'm not convinced that the mod54 and taco style methods are all that great. I'll start with trays and then move onto something fancier when the time comes.

[Nigel Smith]

and I'm not convinced that the mod54 and taco style methods are all that great. I'll start with trays and then move onto something fancier when the time comes.

I did my 1st couple (4x5) in trays, didn't scratch anything but read about the taco's and gave them a go. Much better than standing in the dark for 11mins (my dev time). I have found that the rubber bands stop the anti-halation layer washing off on some films (mostly J&C 400) so I have added a step in the process where after the fix I give it a quick water rinse, move the rubber bands, then another fix for a minute before the wash. Half way through the wash I usually move the rubber bands again.

[Light Guru]

Much better than standing in the dark for 11mins (my dev time).

you can shorten Dev times by using more concentrated developer. I use xtol and d76 and when I moved to trays I switched from 1:1 solution to the stock solution to cut my times. When I need to shorten my Dev time for zone system n-1 or n-2 I can always use a 1:1 to lengthen the time so it's not to short.

Another good thing about tray developing is that say I go out and expose 3 negatives one weekend and each one needs separate developing times because of zone system developing compensation I find it easier to do that with trays. With a day light system you have to wait for your tank, film holder or whatever to completely dry before you can load another sheet. With trays you just place the developed sheet in a tray of water, turn off the lights and start on your next sheet.

[Daniel Stone]

I found that anything tray developing anything smaller than 8x10 was a ROYAL P.I.T.A. in the long run.

tray developing takes time and practice to become proficient at. Like ANYTHING in life, honestly. It worked for Ansel and Edward Weston, and many here use it regularly as well. Try it, shoot some film and try it out. Burn a box of 25 sheets to see if it works for your style.

Now that 5x7 has become my go-to format(using 4x5 on occasion as well), I found that using a Jobo 3010(going to trade towards a 3006) drum is a PLEASURE to use. And its in the light. I can mix up the next batch of developer(pyro, d-76, etc..) for the next run, or simply just do other things!

YES, there is a cost involved with this. How committed are you to this endeavor? If you want to work in the light, frankly I feel that the Jobo Expert drums are unequaled in performance vs other methods.

-Dan

[Zaitz]

A btzs tube is cheap and works really well. Definitely do not need the full set. Used HP Combiplan works too.

[Andrew O'Neill]

With a day light system you have to wait for your tank, film holder or whatever to completely dry before you can load another sheet. With trays you just place the developed sheet in a tray of water, turn off the lights and start on your next sheet.

Really? I wipe BTZS tubes with paper towels and I'm ready to go. If you presoak the film, no need to dry the tubes. BTZS tubes are great for individual times AND chemistry.
As mentioned, you don't need to buy the kit. Just get a couple of tubes, and a deep tray (got one from Ikea) and Bob's your uncle.

[Jim Noel]

I use print drums to develop 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 film. I load them in a changing tent. I only need the bathroom darkroom to enlarge.
This is probably the best solution. I used it for years.

[Leigh]

Load a daylight tank in a changing bag.

- Leigh

[MMELVIS]

Load a daylight tank in a changing bag.

- Leigh

This method works great

[europanorama]

How about Novatanks? 8x10 for 8x10 or the larger ones.
Are novatanks working for filmsheets? for 8x10 do i need the larger tank(30x40cm) since with 8x10 when moving up and down upper parts will come out of the chemistry. maybe only move left and right.
do i need the trimate or is dualmate enough? developper-fix only. maybe stop outside before fixing. never did try film-developping. did a lot of ra4-printwork. novatank 8x19 dualmate was also a good testtank for my rcp20/ra-4-conversion. running teststrips there before using the machine(takes 3x longer) Thanks

[Roger Thoms]

BTZS tubes.

+1 on the BTZS tubes. I load the film and chemistry in a small closet with a piece of blackout cloth hung on the inside of the doorand then carry the tubes into the kitchen.

Roger

[John Kasaian]

I'm interested in starting LF but I don't always have access to a darkroom...

Well, what are some ways to develop film? I'm interested in options for 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 but will probably start with 4x5. I see one popular but somewhat controversial option for 4x5 is the mod54, what are some other options and relative prices for the equipment.

Else, I am thinking of just making my bathroom into a temporary darkroom and going tray development. This seems like a hassle but the most conventional.
Really, it's not a hassle at all. that's what I do.
Even if you opt for a daylight processor, you still need someplace that's going to be dark to load your drum (and load/unload your film holders!)
Check out Graywolf Phillips article on the Unicolor processor by clicking on the LF Home Page on blue banner at the top of this page. I've used a Unicolor for years but mine quite recently turned on me, so I'm back to using trays.

[Brian Ellis]

There were a couple things I didn't like about tray development. One was just the idea of standing in the dark jiggling trays and inhaling chemical fumes. Another was the difficulty of keeping track of which sheets were say N and which were say N+1. Another was the large amount of chemicals used relative to the BTZS tubes at least. And finally, while I became reasonably proficient at doing 4-6 sheets at a time in trays, every now and then I'd get a scratched negative.

Obviously a choice of development gear is personal and everyone has their preferences. But FWIW, I'd get the BTZS tubes. While you don't absolutely have to buy all six plus the water jacket/tube holder that comes with the set, being able to do 6 at a time and easily keep track of which tube gets how much time (if you need to) helps speed things up. While $164 may seem like a lot, these things are virtually unbreakable and you'll likely be able to use them for the rest of your photographic life.

[Joe O'Hara]

JOBO 3010/3006 drums and a beseler motor base. easy peasy

+1 to that! Even development, consistent agitation, fewer variables to control.

[Regular Rod]

Have the best of both worlds, tray development but in daylight and only one tray... (http://freepdfhosting.com/f640343f29.pdf)

Paterson Orbital Processor for up to four 4x5, two 5x7 or one 8x10 at a time.


RR

[DannL]

I recently dismantled my darkroom and sold off most of the darkroom equipment, enlargers, big trays & drums, etc. When I put that darkroom together I suspected that a dedicated space for processing would be a waste of valuable real estate, and it turned out to be just that. Especially considering I processed enlarged prints so infrequently. As I prefer the smaller contact prints, I simply tossed myself back into the age of pre-darkroom. I use print drums primarily for both film and prints, and those can be loaded in any darkened space, closet, etc. And when I need to expose/print a contact print that requires a dodge/burn and tray processing I have a table set up in the garage where it's plenty dark at night. The nice thing about print drums is that you can develop prints/film anywhere. Not too long ago I developed paper negatives on site, in daylight, on the tailgate of the truck. It's not quite as convenient as instant film, but it's better than waiting until I arrive home to find that my exposures were lacking.