Graflex optar 4.7

[Calimolio]

Hey guys, I'm new to large format photography but I have been doing medium format for some time. I'm testing out a camera I'm thinking about buying but I'm a little iffy on the lens. It says it is a 4.7 on the ring but the scale only goes to 7.5 any insight?

[Jon Shiu]

The shutter was switched at some point from another lens. The f-stops will not be accurate, so I would pass.

Jon

[Calimolio]

The shutter was switched at some point from another lens. The f-stops will not be accurate, so I would pass.

Jon

Thanks Jon, I appreciate it.

[Jim Jones]

If the spacing between the lens cells is correct and if the diaphragm is correctly positioned between the cells, it might work well enough. You can either add a correct scale (they aren't difficult to improvise) or just mentally correct to the right aperture number. However, the Optar doesn't permit extensive front movements on a 4x5 camera, and they are readily available in good condition with the correct scale. Most people would pass it up.

[Ivan J. Eberle]

The numbers you've thrown out there suggests that you've got a Tessar lens mated to the right shutter but the wrong scale. Say it's a Wollensak-built Raptar or Optar 135mm f/4.7, one of the most common ones. The shutters (Rapax or Graphex) were made in quantities of the millions as original equipment on Graflex Speed and Crown Graphics and the correct aperture scale should not be difficult to find, at all.

Tessar press lenses are much deprecated and underrated on most forums nowadays for their lack of excess coverage, which restricts large front standard camera moves. This really isn't such a problem for many kinds of photography, like portraiture or event-type coverage. Not the best choice for architecture, true. But should the camera you're looking at happen to have rear standard movements, this small image circle will not be quite as big of a handicap.

If you happen to like the camera well enough to buy it by itself, go for it. You may end up buying several lenses anyway if you stick with LF. You may also, in the end, being surprised at the image quality from an old "press" or Tessar lens, as just about every lens ever made for LF will be truly breathtakingly good at a typical working aperture of f/16 or f/22, particularly if you're coming from smaller formats. At these apertures, Tessars are nothing short of fabulous.

Hopefully the rest of the lens/shutter is in good condition--shutter fires reasonably close to indicated speeds, and doesn't hang up at 1 second setting, for instance--and assuming the lens elements are not separated or decentered from high heat, the glass not etched by fungus, or badly abused. The resulting images may be rather indistinguishable from those taken with more modern designs.

[BrianShaw]

A picture would help understand what you have.

[Calimolio]

A picture would help understand what you have.

Sorry guys, I guess i should have posted a picture at first. But here it is, I really appreciate every ones input :) 95322

[E. von Hoegh]

Looks like that shutter originally contained the Wollensak version of the 203 Ektar, and some heretic screwed the Optar cells in.

[dsphotog]

Super-Graphic....GOOD!

[BrianShaw]

Replacing the lens/shutter with a 135 Optar in the correct shutter is very easy and affordable. Don't let that hold you back if that's the only issue with the camera.

[Jim Jones]

If it were mine and the shutter works, I'd use it like it is and try to remember that the actual aperture is one stop wider than indicated on that scale. For practical photography, that's within the cumulative error of all the other variations. Only for rigorous applications of the zone system and some lab work will the error be significant.

[Ivan J. Eberle]

There's another good reason to get that lens working with the right shutter with this particular camera.

I greatly enjoyed using the rangefinder on a Super Graphic I once owned, makes it a speedy camera and possible to use handheld. Any SG will have a replaceable lens cam installed for the rangefinder if it's still set up properly (and not stripped out, say for weight reduction). Most common lens for these was the 135mm Optar in a Graphex, ergo there's every chance that the cam installed is correct for this particular 135mm, as was mine.

Now, like I mentioned it's very useful to have a working rangefinder (wouldn't want another SG without one, personally). But the Caltar IIN (Rodenstock Sironar N) 135mm f/5.6 lens I bought specifically for the camera, unfortunately didn't work with that original cam. Not even close after adjusting infinity stops. A Raptar 135mm f/4.7 I had laying around worked with very precise focus. Never did get around to custom grinding a cam for the SG to take the Caltar; didn't use it much and wound up selling that camera with the Raptar.

Super Graphics could have been the bomb had somebody thought to go into business making cams for popular modern lenses. (Oh yeah, and if they'd also figured out a way for the RF and for coupled internal rack focusing to use the camera with wide angles, ala the Crown Graphic. Didn't like that other downside to the SG at all!)

[Calimolio]

Thanks for all the responses guys, The lens that i showed yall snagged up at speeds below 1/10. But i found one in good condition for a good price. I should be getting it this week.

[Ivan J. Eberle]

Very common that a Graphex or
Rapax shutter has a slow running or hanging escapement as most is 60+ year old gear. The shutter may simply need the old lubricants flushed out and replaced. There are still a few places where you can send a shutter out for a CLA or you might do a "Ronsonol soak" yourself.

[Calimolio]

got the new lens in about a week ago and tried it out with the camera. Thanks for all the input guys, i really appreciate it. Now i think i might have to invest in a scanner to be able to scan all my shots. Im hooked haha.