Lens shade or just using the hand

[wiggywag]

I have the practice of using my hand only for shading the lens from the sunlight. Will my images benefit from using a compendium/lens shade compared to only using my hand? I use both multicoated and single coated lenses, but no uncoated.

[C_Remington]

Yes. U won't get your hand in the picture.

[Kirk Gittings]

FWIW I've never used anything but my hand, my darkslide or my hat since starting LF in 1978.

[Heroique]

I’ll use my compendium shade even if I’m certain my final image will be good enough by using just my hand. Or my hat.

To do this, I have to fight a complacent voice inside my head that says, “Why bother with the compendium?” That voice enjoys being no better than good enough, and he has tricky arguments to win me over.

“Ansel used his hat,” he’ll add. “Why not use yours?”

-----
I remember a forum poll about using shades – there was an even split between people who used a shade for each and every shot, and those who simply used a hand/hat if they felt it was needed.

[Diane Maher]

I have done both. It depends on what else I might need my hand for (holding an umbrella to block the wind comes to mind). I have also used the lens shade to keep snow off of my lens while shooting.

[jp]

I use my darkslide or my body.

I don't wear a hat. Using weak logic inference, hats make people go bald.

[Jim Noel]

Set up your camera and make two identical exposures. One using your hand, or hat or dark slide and one with a compendium shade. You will then know what is best for you to do.

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

Set up your camera and make two identical exposures. One using your hand, or hat or dark slide and one with a compendium shade. You will then know what is best for you to do.

Wise advice! Long ago I tried this and now use a compendium hood.

[jcoldslabs]

I don't wear a hat. Using weak logic inference, hats make people go bald.

I always wear a hat in the (perhaps mistaken) belief that a sunburned scalp leads to hair loss. So far, so good!

I have compendiums but find them cumbersome so I use a dark slide instead. If I shot with fresh film and modern lenses I might worry more about it, but as it is I'm a pretty lazy technician when it comes to 'optimizing' my results.

Jonathan

[Kirk Gittings]

Don't just test but look at whether it fits into your work method and subject matter. There is nothing lazy about not using a compendium. Its a choice one makes balancing many factors. It has a lot to do with your work style and subject matter. I travel light and shoot quick usually in rapidly changing light or trying to catch moving clouds etc. I oftentimes need to be set up and shooting in under 2 minutes. I don't need anything that slows me down more, catches the wind more or adds more weight to my kit.

If one needs confirmation look at all the extraordinary LF landscape photographers in the modern era who didn't use one. Lazy? I think not? Prevented them from creating exquisite work? Hardly.

One can be simply too anal and miss the light, which is what I did when I first started. Perfectly Zone placed exposures, perfectly individually developed negatives-perfectly boring images-but technically perfect.

[John Kasaian]

Hat. Dark slide. Body. I don't have Series filter adapters as large as I'd need to fit my big Ektars, nor a compendium.

[Cletus]

Compendium. Lee Shade actually. I always use my Lee FK holder and at a minimum a Yellow #12 filter for just about everything. (I only do B&W) The Lee shade clips on the front of the holder, is simple and lightweight and stays where you put it. There's no fangled rods or clips or clamps or set screws or adjustments or anything else that would give me a good excuse not to use it, so I do.

I use the darkslide to shade end of the film holder.

[jcoldslabs]

Don't just test but look at whether it fits into your work method and subject matter. There is nothing lazy about not using a compendium. Its a choice one makes balancing many factors. It has a lot to do with your work style and subject matter. I travel light and shoot quick usually in rapidly changing light or trying to catch moving clouds etc. I oftentimes need to be set up and shooting in under 2 minutes. I don't need anything that slows me down more, catches the wind more or adds more weight to my kit.

If one needs confirmation look at all the extraordinary LF landscape photographers in the modern era who didn't use one. Lazy? I think not? Prevented them from creating exquisite work? Hardly.

One can be simply too anal and miss the light, which is what I did when I first started. Perfectly Zone placed exposures, perfectly individually developed negatives-perfectly boring images-but technically perfect.

Well put, Kirk. If I were being more kind to myself I might have said as much. Call it what you will, but I, too, find accessories that slow me down to be a problem, no matter how well intentioned the gizmo. Better to make the photo you want to make when you want to make it than wait for all of the fiddly bits and bobs to be in place.

J.

[Leigh]

It depends a lot on the exact lens and camera.

If you're shooting a lens with an IC much larger than required for the film, you may find stray light hitting the inside
of the bellows. That can bounce around and reduce the contrast of the image.

A compendium can be used to restrict the field of view of the lens to eliminate much of that stray light.
Since these are typically square, the vignetting effect is not perfect for a non-square film format, but it's close.

Accomplishing the same thing with a hand or hat (or both) would require significant contortion, and a square hat. :D

- Leigh

[Heroique]

Since these are typically square, the vignetting effect is not perfect for a non-square film format, but it's close.

For illustration, here’s the shape of Lee’s wide-angle (non-slotted) version.

It’s very flexible and a joy to shape. ;^)

-----
Countless times have I discovered better light that came right after, or soon after the light I was chasing in a hurry. I can thank my Lee compendium for slowing me down to recognize moments like this. I can also thank it for causing me to miss the best light. One mental habit that’s good to break is believing the fleeting light you see, or anticipate, will not improve even more a little later. You win some, you lose some, no matter what your shading habits are.

[Bernice Loui]

The dark slide, cast a shadow on the front of the lens. This works best with dark slides 5x7 and larger. Simple, quick, easy to learn and quite effective.

Compendium shades also work great when set up properly.

Sinar makes a mask shade with adjustable curtains that can work for masking and a very effective lens shade, but requires effort and careful set up. This is really a specialty item.

Regardless, shading the lens from stray light is good practice multi-coated optics or not.



Bernice


I have the practice of using my hand only for shading the lens from the sunlight. Will my images benefit from using a compendium/lens shade compared to only using my hand? I use both multicoated and single coated lenses, but no uncoated.

[Doremus Scudder]

Don't just test but look at whether it fits into your work method and subject matter. There is nothing lazy about not using a compendium. Its a choice one makes balancing many factors. It has a lot to do with your work style and subject matter. I travel light and shoot quick usually in rapidly changing light or trying to catch moving clouds etc. I oftentimes need to be set up and shooting in under 2 minutes. I don't need anything that slows me down more, catches the wind more or adds more weight to my kit.

If one needs confirmation look at all the extraordinary LF landscape photographers in the modern era who didn't use one. Lazy? I think not? Prevented them from creating exquisite work? Hardly.

One can be simply too anal and miss the light, which is what I did when I first started. Perfectly Zone placed exposures, perfectly individually developed negatives-perfectly boring images-but technically perfect.

+1

That said, I do carry a small Voss "filter holder" with barn doors on it. It folds up into a 3-inch square is less than 1/4-inch thick folded. This I use when I have the time, especially when sunlight is striking the front element of the lens. I don't think these are made anymore, but they appear used from time to time. I like that it clips on quickly with a spring clip and is fast to set. I have a compendium that I've never used just because it's too heavy and bulky to carry into the field. If someone came up with a lightweight compendium that was easy to mount and adjust, I'd likely be a customer. Till then, it's the Voss barn doors.

And, I use the darkslide propped over the lens a lot as well.

Best.

Doremus

[E. von Hoegh]

I have the practice of using my hand only for shading the lens from the sunlight. Will my images benefit from using a compendium/lens shade compared to only using my hand? I use both multicoated and single coated lenses, but no uncoated.

Yes.

On 8x10 I use uncoated lenses and consider a compendium mandatory. A properly adjusted compendium masked to match the aspect ratio of your format will improve any lens' performance, I use one whenever possible regardless of how (or if) the lens is coated.

[wiggywag]

For illustration, here’s the shape of Lee’s wide-angle (non-slotted) version.

It’s very flexible and a joy to shape. ;^)

-----
Countless times have I discovered better light that came right after, or soon after the light I was chasing in a hurry. I can thank my Lee compendium for slowing me down to recognize moments like this. I can also thank it for causing me to miss the best light. One mental habit that’s good to break is believing the fleeting light you see, or anticipate, will not improve even more a little later. You win some, you lose some, no matter what your shading habits are.

Which version of the Lee hoods is best for LF? I dont do extreme wideangle, mostly 210mm on an 8x10. I have also invested in a 7x17, where I think my widest will be 305mm. Is it important to go for wide angle adaptors only since we do shift and tilt on a view camera?

Would love to learn more about Lee hoods for LF camera, very interesting option, especially the ones with filter holder included.

[drew.saunders]

Which version of the Lee hoods is best for LF? I dont do extreme wideangle, mostly 210mm on an 8x10. I have also invested in a 7x17, where I think my widest will be 305mm. Is it important to go for wide angle adaptors only since we do shift and tilt on a view camera?

Would love to learn more about Lee hoods for LF camera, very interesting option, especially the ones with filter holder included.

I have the wide angle Lee hood with 2 slots, and it works fine for my 300mm lens on 4x5. I also have the standard one, but needed the wide for my 80mm and 120mm lenses, so I experimented with the coverage of the wide when fully extended, and it seemed to work well enough for my longest lens.

[Tin Can]

I am guilty of buying those cheap Chinese screw-on hoods. And using them!

49mm hood fits my 150 and 210 mm lenses, plus is threaded to fit my old Pentax filters.

I don't know how they ship from Hong Kong to my door with USPS for a total delivered price of $5.00!

It fits in my shirt pocket.

Maybe it does nothing, but it makes me feel better...


+1

That said, I do carry a small Voss "filter holder" with barn doors on it. It folds up into a 3-inch square is less than 1/4-inch thick folded. This I use when I have the time, especially when sunlight is striking the front element of the lens. I don't think these are made anymore, but they appear used from time to time. I like that it clips on quickly with a spring clip and is fast to set. I have a compendium that I've never used just because it's too heavy and bulky to carry into the field. If someone came up with a lightweight compendium that was easy to mount and adjust, I'd likely be a customer. Till then, it's the Voss barn doors.

And, I use the darkslide propped over the lens a lot as well.

Best.

Doremus

[Brian Ellis]

Hand is fine if all you want to do is keep direct light from striking the lens. But if you want to shield the lens from indirect diffuse light, e.g. the kind of light you get on a cloudy but bright day, a compendium shade will do that while your hand won't. The problem with the only compendium shade I owned (Linhof) was that it was kind of cumbersome and time-consuming to put on and take off so I had a tendency not to use it.

[Heroique]

...Would love to learn more about Lee hoods for LF camera, very interesting option, especially the ones with filter holder included.

The wider compendium of the WA version certainly makes life easier the wider your lenses are, and the greater your movements.

This becomes even more important when you use a filter holder. If you use a holder, the shade is designed to slide into the holder’s outer-most slot. This pushes the shade out in front of the lens – more so than if you were using just the shade by itself. The more filters in the holder, and the greater your movements, the more the shade tends to get in the way. My widest lens is 110mm (on 4x5), so this isn’t a common problem with most of my landscape shots, but often, I do find myself working close to the limits w/ small to moderate movements. Being able to tailor each compendium corner is a great help.

When using the shade by itself (on an adaptor ring), you can rotate it to match your GG orientation. When it’s on the holder, you can’t rotate the shade, but you can rotate the holder. I think Lee makes an adaptor that allows you to turn the shade independent of the holder, but I imagine that pushes the shade out in front even more.

[Joseph Dickerson]

For illustration, here’s the shape of Lee’s wide-angle (non-slotted) version.

It’s very flexible and a joy to shape. ;^)

-----
Countless times have I discovered better light that came right after, or soon after the light I was chasing in a hurry. I can thank my Lee compendium for slowing me down to recognize moments like this. I can also thank it for causing me to miss the best light. One mental habit that’s good to break is believing the fleeting light you see, or anticipate, will not improve even more a little later. You win some, you lose some, no matter what your shading habits are.

Same unit I use in the field except mine fits a Cokin P filter holder, although in the studio I use a Sinar bellows and rod set up. However, if the light is really changing rapidly I revert to using my hat. Wish I knew 50 years ago that wearing hats caused baldness...:p

Heroique, how can you use your hand when it's all sticky from the apple fritters at Cinnamon Twisp?

JD

[Heroique]

Heroique, how can you use your hand when it's all sticky from the apple fritters at Cinnamon Twisp?

That’s a great, practical tip for all who use their hands in Washington state – take your shots in N. Cascades NP before you go to the bakery in Twisp, not after.

[wiggywag]

The wider compendium of the WA version certainly makes life easier the wider your lenses are, and the greater your movements.

This becomes even more important when you use a filter holder. If you use a holder, the shade is designed to slide into the holder’s outer-most slot. This pushes the shade out in front of the lens – more so than if you were using just the shade by itself. The more filters in the holder, and the greater your movements, the more the shade tends to get in the way. My widest lens is 110mm (on 4x5), so this isn’t a common problem with most of my landscape shots, but often, I do find myself working close to the limits w/ small to moderate movements. Being able to tailor each compendium corner is a great help.

When using the shade by itself (on an adaptor ring), you can rotate it to match your GG orientation. When it’s on the holder, you can’t rotate the shade, but you can rotate the holder. I think Lee makes an adaptor that allows you to turn the shade independent of the holder, but I imagine that pushes the shade out in front even more.

Should I go for wide angles adapter rings, or will standard do fine? Im thinking of buying the wide hood with 2 filter slots in it.

[Heroique]

Should I go for wide angles adapter rings, or will standard do fine? I’m thinking of buying the wide hood with 2 filter slots in it.

Here’s an image to help – the ring underneath is the plastic (but high quality) regular ring; the one resting on top is the metal (aluminum) wide angle ring. I use both – the plastic ring for my 150 and 240, the metal WA ring for my 110mm. I think the metal version is worth the extra money no matter which lens you use, but both work well. (Remember to think through how to manage GND filters with the slotted hood.)

[drew.saunders]

Should I go for wide angles adapter rings, or will standard do fine? Im thinking of buying the wide hood with 2 filter slots in it.

For my 80mm, the wide angle adaptor ring is necessary. For my 120, it's mostly necessary, and for my 135, it's not necessary, but the 120 and 135 are the same filter diameter, and I tend to take one or the other, so the 135 gets used with the wide angle ring. Eventually, I'll cough up for a 2nd ring.

[Tony Karnezis]

Will my images benefit from using a compendium/lens shade compared to only using my hand? I use both multicoated and single coated lenses, but no uncoated.

Consider this article by Robert Zeichner, a member of the forum.

http://razeichner.com/RAZP_large_pix/Shade_pg_1.html

He made pairs of 4x5 B&W negatives using either a round rubber lens hood or a barn door shade (no negs using his hand as a shade or without a hood), on both modern multicoated lenses and older single coated lenses, photographing a variety of subjects under different lighting conditions. He then developed and printed the negs similarly such that any difference in outcome could be attributed to the type of hood.

His conclusions: In almost every case, the barn door hood resulted in increased tonal range, approaching between 1/2 and 1 full contrast grade, particularly with single coated lenses, but also noticeable with multicoated lenses.

I'm guessing a round lens hood is a more effective shade than your hand. So if you think your images could benefit from increased tonal range, then it's probably a good idea to give a barn door hood a try.

[Tin Can]

Tony,

Thanks for the link to Robert's outstanding article and test. It sure will influence my hood use going forward. I particularly like that his article included sources and part numbers. Makes it easy for us.

I met Robert Zeichner last January for a few minutes, a very dedicated photographer.

Thanks Robert and Tony!



Consider this article by Robert Zeichner, a member of the forum.

http://razeichner.com/RAZP_large_pix/Shade_pg_1.html

He made pairs of 4x5 B&W negatives using either a round rubber lens hood or a barn door shade (no negs using his hand as a shade or without a hood), on both modern multicoated lenses and older single coated lenses, photographing a variety of subjects under different lighting conditions. He then developed and printed the negs similarly such that any difference in outcome could be attributed to the type of hood.

His conclusions: In almost every case, the barn door hood resulted in increased tonal range, approaching between 1/2 and 1 full contrast grade, particularly with single coated lenses, but also noticeable with multicoated lenses.

I'm guessing a round lens hood is a more effective shade than your hand. So if you think your images could benefit from increased tonal range, then it's probably a good idea to give a barn door hood a try.

[E. von Hoegh]

Don't just test but look at whether it fits into your work method and subject matter. There is nothing lazy about not using a compendium. Its a choice one makes balancing many factors. It has a lot to do with your work style and subject matter. I travel light and shoot quick usually in rapidly changing light or trying to catch moving clouds etc. I oftentimes need to be set up and shooting in under 2 minutes. I don't need anything that slows me down more, catches the wind more or adds more weight to my kit.

If one needs confirmation look at all the extraordinary LF landscape photographers in the modern era who didn't use one. Lazy? I think not? Prevented them from creating exquisite work? Hardly.

One can be simply too anal and miss the light, which is what I did when I first started. Perfectly Zone placed exposures, perfectly individually developed negatives-perfectly boring images-but technically perfect.

I rode a motorcycle over 100MPH wearing cutoff jeans shorts, a T-shirt, and Bass loafers. Why waste money on leathers, I never needed them.

OK, maybe not the best analogy.
A properly adjusted comepndium will exclude any and all light that does not go into forming the image, and it can and usually does make a difference even with MC lenses.

[Jac@stafford.net]

A person can never have enough lens shade (http://www.ebay.com/itm/200933597297). :)

[jeroldharter]

I have a nice Arca Swiss compendium adapted to use on a Wehman 8x10 as well as the Arca 4x5. I prefer to use the hood because it works much better than my hand or a dark slide; holds its place for long exposures; is less prone to clip a corner of the frame with wide angle lenses; and blocks more extraneous light.

However, it is one more trinket, one more step. So I use the the compendium more for static objects in static light and less out in the field when the environment is more changeable.

I looked into the Lee compendium but they found them too small for 8x10 or large lenses and the cost of all the adapter rings adds up. I prefer a compendium that attaches to the front standard rather than the lens.

[wiggywag]

I have a nice Arca Swiss compendium adapted to use on a Wehman 8x10 as well as the Arca 4x5. I prefer to use the hood because it works much better than my hand or a dark slide; holds its place for long exposures; is less prone to clip a corner of the frame with wide angle lenses; and blocks more extraneous light.

However, it is one more trinket, one more step. So I use the the compendium more for static objects in static light and less out in the field when the environment is more changeable.

I looked into the Lee compendium but they found them too small for 8x10 or large lenses and the cost of all the adapter rings adds up. I prefer a compendium that attaches to the front standard rather than the lens.

Same her now! Very satisfied with my Arca compendium :)

[Leszek Vogt]

My compendium acts like a sail and it takes too much to set. I think I'll use a flexible goosneck with a slide (or some other dark metal sheet)....Bogen used to make those specifically to shade off a lens from strong light (as in cinema)....and this thing is adaptable (by a clip) to any camera....so it's possible to use on (oh gasp) digi or any film rig.

Les

[Tin Can]

Reef that sail...



My compendium acts like a sail and it takes too much to set. I think I'll use a flexible goosneck with a slide (or some other dark metal sheet)....Bogen used to make those specifically to shade off a lens from strong light (as in cinema)....and this thing is adaptable (by a clip) to any camera....so it's possible to use on (oh gasp) digi or any film rig.

Les

[Andrew O'Neill]

I've always wanted a compendium shade but too expensive and it's just another thing to hump around. I'll use that money to buy film and stick with the darkslide lens shade!

[Stephen Willard]

It depends a lot on the exact lens and camera.

If you're shooting a lens with an IC much larger than required for the film, you may find stray light hitting the inside
of the bellows. That can bounce around and reduce the contrast of the image.

A compendium can be used to restrict the field of view of the lens to eliminate much of that stray light.
Since these are typically square, the vignetting effect is not perfect for a non-square film format, but it's close.

Accomplishing the same thing with a hand or hat (or both) would require significant contortion, and a square hat. :D

- Leigh

I read an article a number of years ago that talked about stray light. The author used a barn door type lens shade and developed a method so that he could quickly remove all stray light hitting the interior of the bellows by adjusting the barn doors of his lens shade. He said the compendium lens hood provided only about a 70% solution. He had pictures with the compendium lens hood and with his barn door lens shade and the results were striking. The improvement in contrast was amazing.

I personally do not use the barn door lens shade because I tend to shoot in highly directional light over my shoulder in morning and evening where stray light is almost non existent. However, I still have not forgotten the article, and in time, I do plan on testing the a barn door lens shade solution.

That said, there are times when you are shooting in the moment and the use of a hat or hand is all you have time for so you need to be good at improvising. However, there are many times when the photograph is premeditate requiring long periods of waiting or revisiting. During these times, it is my belief that a good lens shade is well worth the effort.

-Stephen

[Tin Can]

I suppose there is a good reason Sinar sells a compendium and barn doors that can be used simultaneously.

Now I need just one more thing...