How to attach levels to a Tachihara Field Camera without harming the finish ?

[Ken Lee]

Is there a way to attach some levels to a Tachihara Field Camera without harming the finish ?

[lenser]

Ken,

I put up a thread with illustrations back in November titled Zone VI Level Modification about how I had two levels added to my Zone VI 4x5. If your camera walls are thick enough to handle the cavity for the levels, it will work beautifully. With the right tools and the right person handling the job, it's a piece of cake.

Tim

[Ken Lee]

Here it is: Zone VI Levels Modification (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?96635-Zone-VI-levels-modification)

I was trying to do it without cutting or scratching anything, but I'll have a look. Thanks !

[lenser]

Just my opinion, Ken; but I think the Zone VI design of the recessed levels "looks" far less intrusive than any surface style bubble level that is attached to the camera body. The alternative might be to carry a hardware store type of bubble level and just use it as needed.

[Ken Lee]

I agree. Anything which protrudes is likely to snap off and cause damage, while those recessed levels look very nice, like "original equipment".

I have a bubble level which is the size of a pen, with a pocket-clip on it. Perhaps I'll just keep using that.

[Mark Sampson]

Somewhat over twenty years ago, I just glued a small bullseye level to the top of the rear standard of my 4x5 Tachi. It worked well and I shot a fair amount of architecture with that camera, until in 1992 I bought a Zone VI. I never took the level off the Tachi- when I sold it the buyer liked the idea and kept it, as far as I know.

[Bob Salomon]

Kaiser 206386 is a circular bubble level that is self-adhesive and also has holes in the body flange so you can use screws if you prefer. Comes with the adhesive already attached but you have to supply the small screws if you want to use them. The flange base is 1" in diameter.

[lenser]

Another thing I dislike about the bullseye type levels is the need to be above the camera to center everything. It's great when using a low angle, but even at 6'3" height, I've got to have a step stool or something similar if I am shooting from a camera position that is higher than my chest. The little line levels that are used to hang from a string in their normal life, actually work better than the bullseyes.

[Mark Sampson]

lenser, you are right about the bullseye level (mine must have been the Kaiser part Mr. Salomon mentions), but then once glued down, it never got lost. Unlike the several chalkline levels I bought over the years...

[Bob Salomon]

Another thing I dislike about the bullseye type levels is the need to be above the camera to center everything. It's great when using a low angle, but even at 6'3" height, I've got to have a step stool or something similar if I am shooting from a camera position that is higher than my chest. The little line levels that are used to hang from a string in their normal life, actually work better than the bullseyes.

Just checked one of the Kaiser ones. They do work upside down or right side up. So you could mount one to the bottom of the camera as well as to the top.

[Keith Pitman]

I bought a plastic torpedo level and cut off the 45-degree bubble and shortened the other end. It's only about two inches long and only weighs about an ounce. I carry it in my pocket.


94800

[Tim Meisburger]

Sweet!

I tend to use the levels on my tripod head or, since I was a carpenter back in the day, just eyeball it.

[Mark Stahlke]

I use one of those plastic levels designed to fit the hot shoe of a small format camera. It's quick and easy to level the bed and the standards.

[Leigh]

Take a bullseye level and set it on the bed below the bellows.
This is the round level with concentric circles.

You can set it on top of the front or rear standard if desired.

- Leigh

[scm]

When I bought this camera, it had several pieces of sheet metal double-stick taped to it to allow the use of a small magnetic level on it. I use a different type of level, so I just heated the strips up a bit with a hair dryer and they peeled right off, didn't leave a mark.

Pretty slick, no drilling, no screws, no glue, nothing much above the surface of the camera and completely reversible.


http://stevemidgleyphotography.com/IMG_2244b.jpg

[Doremus Scudder]

I have a few wooden folders that I've added levels to. Here are my recommendations:

First, an accurate bull's-eye level is simple to use and you only have to mount it once. You need at least two of the bullet levels and run the risk of mounting one (or both) incorrectly.

You can read a bull's-eye level from the side easily, you just have to look at both axes to get the camera back in a final position (keep this in mind when deciding on a spot to mount the level).

I have a couple bull's-eye levels that are attached to the camera with simple double-sided tape. They have been doing fine and reading accurately for years. Removal leaves some adhesive residue which is easily removed.

Mounting the level so it reads accurately is the tricky part. I prefer the following:

Use your gridded ground glass as your guide, not other levels. First, however, you must make doubly sure that your ground glass is mounted square and immovably to your camera back. Make whatever changes are necessary there to achieve this. I had to add spacers to a couple cameras to make sure that the ground glass did not shift or twist. Once that is done...

Set up the camera to take a shot of a subject with obvious and accurate verticals (e.g., a modern building, etc.). Spend some time getting this right: use a vertical at the center of the image (I like portrait orientation of the back to improve accuracy here) and the grid line to adjust the side-to-side level of the camera back. Then use verticals at the side of the image and the grid lines to level the camera front-to-back. Repeat this a couple of times till you are really honed in on the correct alignment.

When you are happy with the camera alignment, test fit the level in its predetermined location on your camera back. If you are lucky, it will read level, then you can simply tape it down. If not, you will have to shim the level so it reads level before mounting. This can be a trial and error process using thicknesses of tape, paper, etc. till you get the level to read correctly, i.e., agree with the alignment on the ground glass. Then mount the level.

And, still only use your level as a guide to get the camera set up correctly. Use the grid on the ground glass as the final arbiter of any image you make.

Best,

Doremus

[Cor]

Is relying on the horizontal and/or vertical lines on your ground glass (if you have these, off-course) not enough for levelling your camera ?

best,

Cor

[lenser]

Cor,

In a perfect world, the lines should work, but I shoot architecture and often shoot at night or in very dim twilight or interiors when the grid lines become nearly invisible. Add to that the simple fact that I trust a level more than I do my eyes.

Tim

[lenser]

Regarding those who express an uncertainty to mounting bullet levels in the camera:

The way that the jbh kit works makes this an easy fail safe method. The mounting hole has wiggle room and the adhesive is silicone which has a few minutes of setting time. In the case of the Zone VI where other levels already were present, I simply leveled the camera with the existing ones and then installed the new ones in the bed of silicone and adjusted them with a toothpick until they matched the corresponding level. I only added the faceplate once the silicone had completely set and I had reverified that the two levels matched. I also used a line level on the body to prove that the existing levels were correct before installing the new ones.

To do the same on a camera without existing levels, first zero all detents, then use a bubble level or a line level as your guide and then follow the same procedure of silicone and adjustment for the bullet level until set in its cavity. Definitely easy and worked like a charm.