8x10 b/w processing - tubes, trays or?

[nonuniform]

So, I had to try 8x10 after all these years shooting 4x5.

Planning to stick with b/w Tri-X for now, and trying to decide whether I want to tray process or use tubes or some other thing. I'm used to tray processing 4x5, and I'm trying NOT to jump in and buy lots of gear right away. :)

Would love to hear how others are processing their 8x10 b/w film.

[nonuniform]

Okay, so this went nowhere.

How about this - which Unicolor drum works best for processing 8x10 film? Anyone....? Anyone....?

[vinny]

Jobo
Why not trays if that's what you know?

[Kimberly Anderson]

I use a JOBO, but you could do tray since you already know how. Tubes are great, but JOBO is best. JOBO with Unicolor base is second best.

[AJ Edmondson]

Both the Unicolor and Beseler rotary type processors work well... the ribbed inside precludes film sticking and allows complete wetting of the back of the film. In my experience they are a bit sloppy in that they seem to invariably leak a small amount but, aside from that they were always satisfactory for me.

Joel

[DougD]

I have used a jobo print drum (smooth sided on the inside) to process 8x10 a sheet at a time. I used the smaller drum because I was worried that multiple sheets would slip over each other. The Besler and the Unicolor are the same to me, but I found that I had monitor the drum as it spun because it would creep towards one end of the roller. I did an additional fix in a tray to make sure dyes in the rear of the film would be removed.

[Nicolasllasera]

I use a Jobo ATL 2200 and the 3005 tank. Works great.

[Leigh]

Your choice of developer may influence your choice of method.

Tubes provide (and require) continuous agitation. This is not appropriate for compensating developers.

I always do my 8x10 in trays.

- Leigh

[nonuniform]

Thanks. The only downside for trays for me is that I'd have to blackout my bathroom, hence the idea of using a drum. I don't necessarily want to spend the $599 on a Jobo 3005, so I was looking at the Unicolor drums. Anyhow, I'll probably just tray process for now.

[ShawnHoke]

Trays. Cheap and easy.

[David Lobato]

Beseler and Unicolor drums on a reversing roller base work well for me. First test for water leaks and deal with them before putting film in. Old gaskets lose the seal and sometimes require some sort of fix. The 11x14 Unicolor drum holds two 8x10 sheets, my preference. First use a scrap sheet or an 8x10 substitute to see how they load into the drums. Don't overfill the drums with chemicals or else they could leak out the front opening. I've developed a few dozen 8x10's this way. There is a small learning curve but not hard to learn. I use 300ml of developer per sheet, and more fixer than that. Use a GFCI outlet for the roller base to be safe with all those liquids present. And never pick up or grab a film loaded drum by the end cap. They can pop off with your exposed film inside. Handle carefully before the developing process starts. I got my motley collection of drums and roller base from scouring ads and the dust/bargain bins in photo stores.

[Brian Ellis]

I processed 8x10 b&w negatives in trays at first, then BTZS tubes. I switched from the trays because I didn't like standing around in the dark jiggling trays and inhaling chemical fumes, plus even though I rarely scratched a negative, when I did it always seemed to be the best photograph in the group. I've used a Jobo system at two of John Sexton's workshops in Anderson Ranch. It was an o.k. system but considering the cost, the space it requires, and the fact that you have to make three separate runs for your normal, plus, and minus negatives I preferred the tubes.

[Tav Walraven]

Always Ciba drums and Uniroller reversing base for me. I've got a bunch of both and picked up 2 more Ciba 11x14 drums today....$10 each. I buy 'em when I find 'em......


tw

[nonuniform]

Thanks for the feedback! I don't want to get over-invested in Jobo gear, though I've got a 3010 drum that I use for 4x5 C-41 processing.

[Vaughn]

After decades of tray development (4x5, 5x7 and 8x10), my Jobo 3005 drums are wonderful! Still tray develop 11x14's, though...kind of nice.

[Vaughn]

After decades of tray development (4x5, 5x7 and 8x10), my Jobo 3005 drums are wonderful! Still tray develop 11x14's, though...kind of nice.

And if I had a once-in-a-lifetime incredible 8x10 image with lots of areas of even tonality, I would be tempted to tray develop it just to be safe.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Nothing wrong with tray development. Sounds like you are used to trays, so stick with it. You probably already have the trays for it. I tend to bounce between trays and tubes (BTZS), depending on how I want to develop the film.

[Jac@stafford.net]

For tray-like work I use Honeywell-Nikor stainless rocking trays for 8x10.

But Beseler and Unicolor are better.

[jeroldharter]

I think it depends most on your budget. Jobo is the best and easiest but by far the most expensive. Trays are the trickiest and the cheapest and us the most chemicals.

Sounds like you are relatively low volume. BTZS tubes or the Unicolor drum on a motor base are the obvious suspects. Cheap, daylight processing with minimal chemical usage and consistent results.

[John Kasaian]

The Unicolor print drum for paper. 8x10 or 11x14. I've used one for years with fine results but this year, well, I've been loosing way too many sheets of film to uneven development.
I still don't know what's causing it(same film, same chemicals, same technique) so I've gone back to tray development.

[koh303]

You can use the 2830 Jobo print drum for 2 sheets of 8X10 per run. The drum is cheap, and will work on most motorized rollers, or the Jobo 1509 manual roller base.
It will also fit a Jobo machine if you decide to go that way in the future, and will also be useful when processing roll film (with some modifications).

As noted above, the 3005 is the ideal solution, if somewhat pricey.

[TimeShare]

I tray developed my first 8x10 negative utilizing stand development in HC-110 for 35 minutes.

Oh Oh ... got some uneven development due to ridges in the 8x10 tray. Normally I use HC-110 in B or H dilution when developing 4x5 negatives in the same tray. Due to the constant agitation, I haven't run into this uneven development problem before.

With the next negative, I'll probably give dilution H a go and use a regular agitation pattern on every 30 seconds like I normally do. Otherwise, I may have to look at getting a flat bottom tray to avoid this issue.

98673

[Regular Rod]

I tray developed my first 8x10 negative utilizing stand development in HC-110 for 35 minutes.

Oh Oh ... got some uneven development due to ridges in the 8x10 tray. Normally I use HC-110 in B or H dilution when developing 4x5 negatives in the same tray. Due to the constant agitation, I haven't run into this uneven development problem before.

With the next negative, I'll probably give dilution H a go and use a regular agitation pattern on every 30 seconds like I normally do. Otherwise, I may have to look at getting a flat bottom tray to avoid this issue.

98673

Here's a way to tray develop in daylight... (http://freepdfhosting.com/f640343f29.pdf)


RR

[Duolab123]

I just developed 2 sheets of 8 x 10 Tri-X in Jobo 2830 tube, Used my SpyNet IR goggles to make sure film was placed correctly in tube. Developed by constant rotation in Jobo Duolab XTOL 1 + 1 550 mL (8 min 75F) , used TWO pre-rinses (550mL) of water. Worked perfect no streaking perfectly uniform development, used stop bath and Fixer in tube (6 minutes fresh Ilford Rapid Fix) pulled out sheets and washed in trays, switching back and forth with fresh running water. Photo-flo in tray with deionized water. PERFECT!! Don't forget when diluting XTOL you need enough stock solution to do the job! Minimum of 135mL of stock per 8 x 10, 120 roll, 135-36 etc. Really don't need the Jobo processor when developing at room temperature any tube and roller should work.

Darkrooms are FUN!

[ic-racer]

Planning to stick with b/w Tri-X for now

At almost eight dollars per sheet, I'd only use a film processor.

[Duolab123]

Alas, IC-racer is right, I noticed some slight streaks when I printed, streaks are consistent with the flow of the chemistry. I use the Jobo 2509 reels for 4x5 no problem with this little Duolab, I'm probably just going back to deep tanks and hangers.

I never did like tube processors, I still (rarely) use a old Kodak Rapid color processor for RA-4 works better than anything else I have ever used.

The new Fomalux "Azo" worked great.

[Duolab123]

NOT SURE BUT THIS SOUNDS LIKE WHAT IS HAPPENING GOING TO TRY THE TUBES AGAIN WITH A ROCKING BACK AND FORTH ROLLER, AFTER THAT ITS DEEP TANKS, TRAYS OR SPEND THE MONEY FOR A FULL BLOWN JOBO OUTFIT.
A definition in one of my photography books about bromide streaking:

"The developer near the heavily exposed areas of the film becomes exhausted in the process of reducing silver salts to silver. Bromide ions are also produced in this process, and being heavier than the developer, they drag downward across the surface fo the film, inhibiting development in those areas and leaving streaks of uneven development, called "bromide drag" aka bromide streaking. Agitation during development brings fresh developer to all areas of the film and flushes away the bromide by turbulence within the developer."

THE DUOLAB JUST GOES ROUND AND A ROUND IN ONE DIRECTION NOT ENOUGHT TURBULENCE???????

[Rick A]

My set up for 8x10 or 4x5 processing, I just acquired a 5x7 and can use it for those too. I have different tubes for 11x14. The white tray catches the drips from the old seal. I tried wiping a light coating of petroleum jelly on the seal and it helps some to keep the leaking to a minimum.



135830

[Luis-F-S]

Stainless 1 gal tanks with the film in hangers, 6 tanks in a water jacket. Use this setup for 4x5, 5x7 & 8x10. L