Using Sylvania Blue Dot #2 flashbulbs

[Tin Can]

I usually shoot digital crowd documentation at this event, http://cimmfest.org/, this is year five. I am tired of blasting away with digital. No fun.

I wanted to use Press 25 bulbs with a Press camera, I might find them in 3 days, might not. Any bulbs available in Chicago would be great. Press # 25 andor # 5.

I do have a case of Sylvania Blue Dot #2 flashbulbs.

I am sure these put out a lot of light.

I need advice on how to use them, most likely for group shots on 8x10.

Since I have fresh Ilford Delta 100 film I will use that, with Calumet C1 and Symmar-S f5.6 300 mm. Sure I could use studio flash or SB800's, but what fun is that. maybe for backup...

How do I wire and fire?

Maybe put them in SV reflectors?

I can meter, but I bet, these are a known quantity and some guidelines exist.

I have a four socket video light bar...

[BrianShaw]

I don't think you can meter bulbs. But they have guide numbers and if you divide GN by distance you'll get an aperture setting. Or, in the old Kodak photoguides there are calculators. Or, there were sliderules for bulb exposure determination.

What do you mean by, "How do I wire and fire?" Flash handle and M-synch on the shutter. What else do you need to know?

[Jac@stafford.net]

I usually shoot digital crowd documentation at this event, http://cimmfest.org/, this is year five. I am tired of blasting away with digital. No fun.

I wanted to use Press 25 bulbs with a Press camera, I might find them in 3 days, might not. Any bulbs available in Chicago would be great. Press # 25 andor # 5.

Ya big silly! Next time a little advance notice would be good. I'm a bulb-flash guy. Got cases and cases of 'em and dozens of flash units of all kinds.

The guideline for exposure is 'Guide Number' and it is printed on the box. Test first. A good flash meter will read bulb flash correctly, even in strong ambient light.

One of my manual, spelunking flashes.
93484

I don't know if your LF shutter has more than one flash synch delay (some have 3 or 4), so shoot at 1/50th or slower and be happy.

To fire them you need a unit that matches the base of the flash. Some are Mazda/Edison screw base - same size as household sockets. There are adapters for #25 bulbs to screw base. (#25 gets their name from their 25mm diameter).

All it takes to set off any flashbulb is 1.5V, but I use 4.5. What the heck.

[Tin Can]

# 2 bulbs are big with medium base, they don't fit my flash handle, I figure I need an external battery and a light bar. They screw into regular household sockets.

While I have about 45 of them, I want to make each shot count.

Says 3 to 120 volts. Can I use a small 12 volt motorcycle battery that is handy and not worry about my expensive Copal 3 shutter flash contacts? I know 12 volts is safe, but how much current, amps do these bulbs draw? Do I need a relay. etc...

Here is what is printed on the box, mostly Greek to me!

934819348293483



I don't think you can meter bulbs. But they have guide numbers and if you divide GN by distance you'll get an aperture setting. Or, in the old Kodak photoguides there are calculators. Or, there were sliderules for bulb exposure determination.

What do you mean by, "How do I wire and fire?" Flash handle and M-synch on the shutter. What else do you need to know?

[Tin Can]

Jac, it was a middle of the night realization. A 'flash' as it were...

I have no time, well a little, the big group shots are Sunday, in tiny places. I have had trouble with 50 mm on FF Nikon, framing 50 people. They have to get very cozy.

I will save these big guns until I do the group shots, now i want to find some 25's in Chicago. I am putting up a WTB in a minute. Ebay will be too slow. Local, if not I will use the Press camera with a nikon SB800 and make a show of it with the the 8X10 and these #2's Sunday.



Ya big silly! Next time a little advance notice would be good. I'm a bulb-flash guy. Got cases and cases of 'em and dozens of flash units of all kinds.

The guideline for exposure is 'Guide Number' and it is printed on the box. Test first. A good flash meter will read bulb flash correctly, even in strong ambient light.

One of my manual, spelunking flashes.
93484

I don't know if your LF shutter has more than one flash synch delay (some have 3 or 4), so shoot at 1/50th or slower and be happy.

To fire them you need a unit that matches the base of the flash. Some are Mazda/Edison screw base - same size as household sockets. There are adapters for #25 bulbs to screw base. (#25 gets their name from their 25mm diameter).

All it takes to set off any flashbulb is 1.5V, but I use 4.5. What the heck.

[BrianShaw]

That should fit in a Graflite with 7 inch reflector. Two or 3 D-cells i ssufficient. The GN on the box is for tungsten film so some adaption may be needed for other film. I use the Kodak Photoguide calculator and get good exposure every time. While making every shot count is a good goal, some "wastage" may be required to dial in the exposure. All of that gibberish on the box is to let you know that GN/distance=aperture, but there are also exposure impacts of reflector size and polish-ness, and shutter speed.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Says 3 to 120 volts. Can I use a small 12 volt motorcycle battery that is handy and not worry about my expensive Copal 3 shutter flash contacts? I know 12 volts is safe, but how much current, amps do these bulbs draw? Do I need a relay. etc...

All you need is two D size batteries. Flashlight stuff. You will not hurt the Copal shutter. Believe me. Just NEVER use house current. I can explain in detail, but just don't.

Your guide number is 320 (a compromise because size and shape of reflector matters. I'm giving the typical 7" reflector size. Divide the subject distance (in feet) into 320. Example: at 10 feet, that's F/32 @ 1/50th of a second for 100ISO film. Work from that. 20 feet would require F/16. It is almost intuitive.

Ya gotta find a flash unit and proper synch cord.

[Tin Can]

I have a PC to HH cord. I can mount the only flash unit I have to either the 2X3 or 4X5 in the image, but that flash needs # 25's

I am thinking of gaffing a battery and a long cord to 2 SV reflectors. So 2 #25's at 20 feet in dull 10' aluminum cone reflector. Pictures shortly of those.

hers's the press cameras and falsh unit, needs mounting, it came off a 3x4. I could use the 3X4, but i would need to cut film. I may just do that as it needs no mods and is not quite as nice as the 2 in the pic. It is also way lighter than that 4X5.

93485



All you need is two D size batteries. Flashlight stuff. You will not hurt the Copal shutter. Believe me. Just NEVER use house current. I can explain in detail, but just don't.

Your guide number is 320 (a compromise because size and shape of reflector matters. I'm giving the typical 7" reflector size. Divide the subject distance (in feet) into 320. Example: at 10 feet, that's F/32 @ 1/50th of a second for 100ISO film. Work from that. 20 feet would require F/16. It is almost intuitive.

Ya gotta find a flash unit and proper synch cord.

[Jac@stafford.net]

I have a PC to HH cord. I can mount the only flash unit I have to either the 2X3 or 4X5 in the image, but that flash needs # 25's

93485

Lucky you. Your flash handle (battery holder) has the 90 degree head adapter. Take it off! Voila, underneath is a screw base bulb holder. Just push the bulb down into the hole. Got another reflector? There is one that fits over the top, surrounding the top, leaving the hole for the bulb base, and the more typical version that fits via an extension into the tab on the rear.

...or tape a pie plate behind the bulb. Stick with my guide number because it's flat, not dished.

[Tin Can]

YES!

I never used this stuff. i think I do have a reflector that has u-shapped mount that does slide down the tube, and now i remember when i took the habdle apart, it has exactly that.

Very good Jac!

This is awesome. Thanks!

I also just got a peply to my WTB flashbugs ad, i cant type I am so excited



Lucky you. Your flash handle (battery holder) has the 90 degree head adapter. Take it off! Voila, underneath is a screw base bulb holder. Just push the bulb down into the hole. Got another reflector? There is one that fits over the top, surrounding the top, leaving the hole for the bulb base.

[Jac@stafford.net]

I have no time, well a little, the big group shots are Sunday, in tiny places.

Then shoot bare bulb - no reflector! The flash will bounce around the walls and ceiling. Beautiful, soft light. Yer good to go!

Oh, cut the guide number in half for bare bulb. Experiment with your digital camera on manual to be sure.

Thanks to Brian Shaw for shaking the cobwebs from my head! I needed to reboot it.

Now, off for my daily walk and a beer.

[Tin Can]

Jac,

Of course, this is great, shooting this film and old stuff is way more interesting than GD digital.

I'm going to bring some FujiFilm fp3000b and sell some $5 fujiroids.

I dug out a kit I bought a while ago and found the reflector and some # 25's!

Now I need to nicely move that mount onto the mint 4X5, carefully.

93487






Then shoot bare bulb - no reflector! The flash will bounce around the walls and ceiling. Beautiful, soft light. Yer good to go!

Oh, cut the guide number in half for bare bulb. Experiment with your digital camera on manual to be sure.

[premortho]

If that's a Graflite, it will fit any Graflex or Graphic camera (except the 35). While you should not abuse it, they were made to use and are pretty tough. When I reccomended Press 25's to you, it is because these are still easy to get. The #2's, with the mazda base (screw) are more likely to shatter when firing, because they are older, and have had more time to leak oxygen inside. Clean the base of the bulb by rubbing the base on your bluejeans. While 3 volts (2 flashlight batteries) is certainly enough to get the fire lit, you still have to have a good contact.

[Tin Can]

mmm, exploding bulbs would be a very bad thing. I sure would not want to injure any of the people I shoot.

I even put safety screens my Lowell Omni's and Tota's, they provide a free retrofit for all existing product.

Maybe fully retro is a bad idea, kinda like steel dashboards and no seat belt cars.





If that's a Graflite, it will fit any Graflex or Graphic camera (except the 35). While you should not abuse it, they were made to use and are pretty tough. When I reccomended Press 25's to you, it is because these are still easy to get. The #2's, with the mazda base (screw) are more likely to shatter when firing, because they are older, and have had more time to leak oxygen inside. Clean the base of the bulb by rubbing the base on your bluejeans. While 3 volts (2 flashlight batteries) is certainly enough to get the fire lit, you still have to have a good contact.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Ah, live it up. Use the bulbs. Your clients will freaking love it. Even if one bulb blows, which is unlikely, it won't hurt anyone a few feet away. They are coated and can't shatter.

[Tin Can]

Well half of them think they are hard ass punk rockers, who put nails in their heads. The real trick will be to keep them interested without blowing all the shots on idiots. Maybe I can snag a shill, I mean an intern. But it's a film fest and they always want to run off and watch a movie. i don't get it, I never watch the movies, I watch the people.

I hope I get one good shot...I did OK at the step and repeat line last year, but it was very fast moving in a small space. I hope we have more room this year.

Since half my building is preparing for the festival, it's getting pretty hectic already. Most of them can no longer put sentences together. I have to translate English to English. Amusing.


Ah, live it up. Use the bulbs. Your clients will freaking love it. Even if one bulb blows, which is unlikely, it won't hurt anyone a few feet away. They are coated and can't shatter.

[premortho]

That's what newspaper photographers did---shoot pics of people doing things like participating in film festivals. Look at WeeGee's pics (just google him up). A perfect example of the kind of shooting you're going to do. Carry spare bulbs and filmpacks in a backpack. All you have to remember is the guide number. 100 speed film guide number for a #2 bulb is 320. That translates to 20 feet at f16, or 10 feet at f32. 3000 speed film is a problem. That is approx. 100 feet at f32. If you are going to use the color instant film, put the blue side of the plastic sock over the bulb for color shots. Take one or two exposures before Sunday to get it right. We used to use flashbulbs all the time, because it made everything so easy, not to mention the great depth of field at f22-f32.
Well half of them think they are hard ass punk rockers, who put nails in their heads. The real trick will be to keep them interested without blowing all the shots on idiots. Maybe I can snag a shill, I mean an intern. But it's a film fest and they always want to run off and watch a movie. i don't get it, I never watch the movies, I watch the people.

I hope I get one good shot...I did OK at the step and repeat line last year, but it was very fast moving in a small space. I hope we have more room this year.

Since half my building is preparing for the festival, it's getting pretty hectic already. Most of them can no longer put sentences together. I have to translate English to English. Amusing.

[Tin Can]

There is a bar named WeeGee after the Photographer a 1/2 mile from my house. I always have worn all black denim for a long time. My signature fedora has been my hat for longer than that. Whenever I shoot like this I put my TIN CAN COLLEGE business cards in the hat band. I play up a WeeGee look. Looks very natural on me.

BUT this the first time I will be using Press cameras! I got a note from B&H my Bi-Pin flash connector will be delivered today!

The show will go on! I love this act and I will have fun playing the role. I can easily pull this off with a straight face.

The pressure is building!

Real news!

LOL

I am going to create some interest and copycats. I think I started the fedora craze on Chicago all by myself. Big ego here...

I have been trying to come with his Travelwide camera.

I am shooting only B&W. I will do test shots today.

I am thinking of using Delta 100 for 4x5. I'll even get fresh film from Calumet today. They have a store close by.

[BrianShaw]

Oh my, have Homburgs gone out of style???

[Jac@stafford.net]

Randy, as long as you are going WeeGee, you might consider using the 4x5 press with the existing lens properly triggered by the battery holder.

Briefly, it works this way: there is a red button on the battery holder. You fire the lens from that button. Pressing the button sends current to a solenoid on the lens board. The solenoid pulls (or pushes. yours pulls) the lens' shutter. All this includes the proper 20 millisecond delay that allows the big bulbs to work to peak before opening the shutter. With this set-up you can exploit faster than a 1/50th shutter speed. It is quick and handy.

I don't know if your press camera supports it, but there is a device called the Focuspot which fits on the top of the rangefinder body and it projects two beams of light out of the two windows in the front of the rangefinder. You focus by simply placing the beams of light on the subject, then move focus until the two images coincide. This lets you focus in darkness, or low light, without raising the camera to your eye. Focuspot! I have a couple and use one on the Super Technika.

Also, for rangefinder use it is handy to use an extension, magnifying tube that fits over the viewing lens. It lets you get your eye closer, and of course, magnifies.

This whole flashbulb, large format rangefinder stuff is great to work with. WeeGee used infrared film on at least one occasion. Infrared bulbs are hard to find. I have a few dozen. Can barely be seen when they blast IR. Oh, and I have several large bulb flashes that do not use a battery, but I'll save that for some other time.

Enjoy!

[BrianShaw]

Jac, that was my thinnking from the beginning of the thread but never mentioned it bcuase of hte desire to use a 300mm in Copla shutter. One of the cameras in teh pics posted yesterday already has a focuspot. But neither pic allows determination of the existence of solenoids.


The approach you mention is exactly what I do (with minor vairations like not having a rangefinder extension on mine)... and it's the greatest!

[BrianShaw]

p.s. My rig is exactly like the Anniversary Graphic (same year of manufacture - 1940, too) as depicted in post #12. Only difference is that I have a "regular 3-cell" Graflite handle, not the polished chrome handle depicted. The alumininum (not black) rangefinder does not support the screw-in telescoping magnifying eyepiece, but supports an older variant that pushed on an did not telescope. I don't think it magnified either.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Jac, that was my thinnking from the beginning of the thread but never mentioned it bcuase of hte desire to use a 300mm in Copla shutter. One of the cameras in teh pics posted yesterday already has a focuspot. But neither pic allows determination of the existence of solenoids.

The solenoid is there on your lens board. Is is the chrome cylinder thing below the lens. It requires a bi-post/AC cord that goes to the battery holder.

93512

From your description of the small room, it seems a 300mm lens would be way too long.

[BrianShaw]

The solenoid is there on your lens board. Is is the chrome cylinder thing below the lens. It requires a cable that goes to the battery holder.

I know what it is and where it is... I use mine. I was saying that in the OP's pictures it is not visible. Maybe my eyesight not good today... which is very possible!

[Jac@stafford.net]

Brian, I was not paying attention to whom I was replying. Sorry.

In any event, it is in Randy's picture above.

I need coffee! :)

Here is a photo (http://bloximages.chicago2.vip.townnews.com/winonadailynews.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/5/fa/5fa046fd-6f73-5622-91db-b043a59c2fe7/4e7cf376b8383.image.jpg) of the man responsible for me getting about 1/3rd of my bulb flash stuff.
One-Shot Kelley. He almost never shot more than one film per assignment.

See his finger nails. What's he using for soup?

[Roger Cole]

Cool stuff, let us know how it works out Randy.

A press camera with matching RF, VF and cammed lens so its usable handheld (I know what they weigh, but bygosh the old guys did it, I can too!) with a flash gun and supply of bulbs is definitely on my "gotta get me one o'dem someday!" list.

BTW, is anyone in the world still making flashbulbs NEW? I know there's still a large, if somewhat expensive, supply of old stock. But I know that, for example, vacuum tubes are undergoing a bit of a renaissance and are being made in Russia and probably elsewhere. Just wondering if they are gone from the world for good when the last old one is popped.

[Roger Cole]

See his finger nails. What's he using for soup?

Probably amidol? Amidol will stain skin and nails black (and should be used with gloves anyway, but they didn't know that back then.)

[Tin Can]

Jac, thats sound great. I have a lot to learn. The red button fires a solenoid that is wired with HH to bi-pin connector on camera right side behind the RF? It triggers the FPS only or does it kick the front panel shutter button and thus can trigger either shutter depending upon the white shutter button slide switch position?

The focus spot is separately wired to by HH to bi-pin on the top of RF?

If that is correct I need 2 bi-pin to HH connectors.

I bought 3 Monday on ebay, I sure hope they get here. http://www.ebay.com/itm/260813906661?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

This camera should work, it looks like new.

I will now look at Butkus web manuals to see what is up.

Those features are incredible. I had no idea!

I am also calling Central Camera in the hopes they have bi-pin cable laying around. Do you know of anyway to jury rig or make a bi-pin connector? HH is obviously no problem.

I do have old infrared 35 mm film I have yet to try, but no 4X5 and I have a lot of old old film.

Of course my hands are starting to lock up and I may end up in a chair with a tripod. All good!



Randy, as long as you are going WeeGee, you might consider using the 4x5 press with the existing lens properly triggered by the battery holder.

Briefly, it works this way: there is a red button on the battery holder. You fire the lens from that button. Pressing the button sends current to a solenoid on the lens board. The solenoid pulls (or pushes. yours pulls) the lens' shutter. All this includes the proper 20 millisecond delay that allows the big bulbs to work to peak before opening the shutter. With this set-up you can exploit faster than a 1/50th shutter speed. It is quick and handy.

I don't know if your press camera supports it, but there is a device called the Focuspot which fits on the top of the rangefinder body and it projects two beams of light out of the two windows in the front of the rangefinder. You focus by simply placing the beams of light on the subject, then move focus until the two images coincide. This lets you focus in darkness, or low light, without raising the camera to your eye. Focuspot! I have a couple and use one on the Super Technika.

Also, for rangefinder use it is handy to use an extension, magnifying tube that fits over the viewing lens. It lets you get your eye closer, and of course, magnifies.

This whole flashbulb, large format rangefinder stuff is great to work with. WeeGee used infrared film on at least one occasion. Infrared bulbs are hard to find. I have a few dozen. Can barely be seen when they blast IR. Oh, and I have several large bulb flashes that do not use a battery, but I'll save that for some other time.

Enjoy!

[Jac@stafford.net]

BTW, is anyone in the world still making flashbulbs NEW?

Yep! Megaflash (http://www.meggaflash.com/) in Ireland.

[Tin Can]

Too bad, that shutter does not work and the whole thing is 3X4.

If the shutter would stay cocked I would use it and cut film to 3x4.

Maybe it's an easy fix.

The shutter is Compur with Jena Tessar lens that looks unused. When I cock it, it 99% of the time it will not lock cocked and slips and fires. Speeds look and sound great. It simply will not stay cocked.



The solenoid is there on your lens board. Is is the chrome cylinder thing below the lens. It requires a bi-post/AC cord that goes to the battery holder.

93512

From your description of the small room, it seems a 300mm lens would be way too long.

[Tin Can]

300 mm was for 8X10. The room may be bigger. Everything is in flux.

[BrianShaw]

Brian, I was not paying attention to whom I was replying. Sorry.

In any event, it is in Randy's picture above.

I need coffee! :)

I missed that. Thanks!

[BrianShaw]

300 mm was for 8X10. The room may be bigger. Everything is in flux.

When using on a camera/lens that isn't a regular press camera I've connected the flash and held the handle with my spare hand. It works fine. The angle of the 7 inch reflector is 120 degrees and 65 for the smaller reflector. For 4x5 it works so I assume for 8x10 it will also... whenever you get around to that.

[Tin Can]

Mission creep.

Thursday shoot 2X3 Graphic with SB000 speedflash and roll film. The rangefinder is spot on. Some E6 mostly B&W. I can drop off the E6.

Work on flash bulbs as i get time.

Goal is Sunday group shots, maybe 8X10. use #2 bulbs.

In between shoot Fuji fp3000b and some DDS.

I was not and am not prepared.

And now I have a visitor from Turkey who needs a Horseman repair. That I can do!

[BrianShaw]

I was not and am not prepared.

Don't ever let that stop you! :)

[premortho]

Back in the day, we were never totally prepared either. We had to adapt and overcome sometimes to "bring home the bacon." Those number 2's should be fine with 100 speed film. I put red finger nail polish on the lensboard. One at 10 feet, one at fifteen feet, and one at 20 feet. For f32, f22, and f16. The focus spot was a big help where the light wasn't good. Set camera for 15 feet (for example) at f22. Turn on focus spot and move back until the light beams come together on the primary subject, shoot picture at whatever shutter speed you thought best. If you are shooting a couple, be sure they are both the same distance from the camera. Try giving your old flashbulb to them as a souvenier.

[Tin Can]

All good tips, I like the flash bulb gift idea!

I found Bi-Pin cords in Chicago, big storm here now, I will get them tomorrow.

going to haul it all to Central Camera and see if they have an easy mount for the Heiland to my 4X5, which is my best Press camera. It has a very slow shutter. I am going to try some FPS Polaroid tests in a few minutes, to see if i can NOT change lenses. I don't want to reset infinity stops and RF and... if I can avoid it. For those lurkers, FPS is the Focal Plane Shutter on the back.





Back in the day, we were never totally prepared either. We had to adapt and overcome sometimes to "bring home the bacon." Those number 2's should be fine with 100 speed film. I put red finger nail polish on the lensboard. One at 10 feet, one at fifteen feet, and one at 20 feet. For f32, f22, and f16. The focus spot was a big help where the light wasn't good. Set camera for 15 feet (for example) at f22. Turn on focus spot and move back until the light beams come together on the primary subject, shoot picture at whatever shutter speed you thought best. If you are shooting a couple, be sure they are both the same distance from the camera. Try giving your old flashbulb to them as a souvenier.

[Jac@stafford.net]

[...]Try giving your old flashbulb to them as a souvenier.

If you are shooting quickly, wear a glove and don't hand a bulb to someone until it is cool.

[Tin Can]

good tip again,

As a mechanic I was known for finger tip thermocouple checking of engine exhaust manifold temps on startup, mostly diesels, you can find a dead cylinder quickly that way.

I wiil be careful with my hot gift!

I will be busy trying to wind up the FPS with reluctant hands, and no they are not burned.




If you are shooting quickly, wear a glove and don't hand a bulb to someone until it is cool.

[Tin Can]

I found a darn good Press camera website, here is a link to his flashlight explanations. This guy has a lot of comprehensive information.

http://lommen9.home.xs4all.nl/technical%20page/start.html

[Tin Can]

I love this tip, next time I will have 2 flashlights! Read this, it is a great way to get that 'deer in the headlight look all reporters love!'

Copied from this website, for Academic fair use purposes. http://lommen9.home.xs4all.nl/index.html

Thank you Jo Lommen! WOW!


"One of the pressmen, Ruud Hoff, an Amsterdam photojournalist, told me: ”. We had these big Graflex with two flash guns. To draw attention from the VIP’s, gathered in the lobby below us, I scratched off some of the safety coating from one of the bulbs and fired a “blind“. This gives a special loud “bang”. The “detonation” made the “audience” looked up at me, straight in the lens of the camera, then I took the real picture…” Another Photographer Rob Walls wrote: "Some of the anecdotes on your web-site brought it all back especially the memory of the burn callouses on the thumb and two fingers of my right hand from changing flash bulbs."

[photoevangelist]

Randy, I can't wait to see your work from this event!

[Tin Can]

I'm pretty worried about producing one image at all.



Randy, I can't wait to see your work from this event!

[Tin Can]

Anybody have a parts list for the Hieland Flash gun. My batteries are not making contact at the top. When I look up there there are 6 insulators surrounding the center contact and those 6 'L' shaped insulators will not let the battery touch that center brass electrode.

Maybe there is a part missing, but that seems odd, since 3 D cells fit nicely and compress slihjyly when the bottom cap is installed.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Positive poll of the battery should point up towards bulb.

[Tin Can]

I checked that 3 times.
Here is a pic.

We are flooding city wide right now. I hope I can get to Central Camera with it and show it to Don, the owner.

93554


Positive poll of the battery should point up towards bulb.

[Tin Can]

If you are shooting Fuji fb3000p, 1/2 power SB28 direct flash at 6 ft, F32 rangefinder focus, it seems to have enough power to simulate deer in headlight look. Hopefully the sticking shutter stays consistant at 1/100th.

All advice here in Chicago is to not leave home, but I can see the L running and I need to get to Central Camera.

93558

[Michael Cienfuegos]

If you are shooting Fuji fb3000p, 1/2 power SB28 direct flash at 6 ft, F32 rangefinder focus, it seems to have enough power to simulate deer in headlight look. Hopefully the sticking shutter stays consistant at 1/100th.

All advice here in Chicago is to not leave home, but I can see the L running and I need to get to Central Camera.

93558

I spoke to my son this morning and he said that there was widespread flooding. Stay warm and dry.

[premortho]

Randy, I don't know if this will work for you, but I always "dry fired" my shutter a half a dozen times at the start of the day in order to "warm up" the shutter. My newspaper bought second hand cameras that were traded in by the Times or the Herald/Examiner. Nobody CLA'd shutters in those days, so sometimes they were slow. Try excercising the shutter, starting at the high speeds, then working your way to the slower. Works for me.

[premortho]

That camera shop you are going to today should be able to transfer the flash to your 4X5. So take both cameras over there. He may have a suggestion on the shutter not staying cocked problem on the 3X4 as well. It could be simple.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Remember with these early shutters to first set the shutter speed, THEN cock and fire. In that order.
If a shutter is still sticky, remove the board, front and rear elements, and flood the shutter with lighter fluid.
Work the shutter many times, shake out the fluid, let it dry.
Reassemble.

Do NOT lubricate it at this time because it is too easy to screw it up again.
Let a pro do the CLA, or do it yourself when you have more time before needing it.
Never, ever use dry graphite as a lube. It is invasive and very hard to remove.

[Tin Can]

Good advice, I had Don, the owner, a protege and 2 customers all working. Not perfect yet, but learning. becoming very crazy here with CIMMFEST as I also volunteer for too much..

While we were all battling flash bulbs a beautiful young woman photographer came in and wanted bulbs for her vintage Kodak Duaflex II. We got that working while she was double parked, and she was leaving the country tonight. I told Don and his protege about the Wanderlust 4X5 project. 1-1/2 and worth every minute.

Gotta go, thanks everybody!



Randy, I don't know if this will work for you, but I always "dry fired" my shutter a half a dozen times at the start of the day in order to "warm up" the shutter. My newspaper bought second hand cameras that were traded in by the Times or the Herald/Examiner. Nobody CLA'd shutters in those days, so sometimes they were slow. Try excercising the shutter, starting at the high speeds, then working your way to the slower. Works for me.

[Tin Can]

Lenser got me 70 #25 bulbs. Thanks Lenser! I am getting there. Been running through a bit of Fujiroid testing.

Got some bi-pin cables.

I have FocuSpot working.

Bought a second Graflex flash handle from Central Camera. It had mounting clips and labeled HH sockets. Makes it easier to use!

Did not shoot last night at http://cimmfest.org/, too tired after everything else and the entire area is flooded, Chicago is somewhat OK. My building is OK.

Drying some test 2X3 film shots right now. Done with SB28.

Here are my 2 good shooters as setup to use tonight. I will use only the 2X3 tonight. I can handle 2X3 sheet better and it is really easy to film can develop with the waffle iron. Pic below.

93629936309363193632

[premortho]

Randy, are you all set up now? It's really pretty simple. All you have to remember is the guide number. Divide the distance you are going to shoot at into the guide number, and presto, you have the aperture for each shutter speed. ( the guide number changes with shutter speed). That's why I always used a baseline of 1/100th. If you want more exposure go to 1/50th, less exposure, go to 1/200th (or the nearest number). Simple, huh?

[Tin Can]

I'm set. I need to go get some lighter fluid and wash my shutter, it runs slow, but the spaces will be dark and I will compensate if the shutter doesn't heal. I also have not done that to a shutter yet... Maybe pop the top and flush with spray Trichloroethylene, I still have a few forbidden cans. Magic Trike, but dangerous as Hell. I have 2 dead friends from it. They loved it too much, caught Industrial Disease and died early.

The 2X3 is great, but I don't want to switch the Focuspot and I can't shoot Fujiroid. But I can process 2X3 far faster than 4X5.

Day by day I am catching up with the 40's!

Thanks everyone!



Randy, are you all set up now? It's really pretty simple. All you have to remember is the guide number. Divide the distance you are going to shoot at into the guide number, and presto, you have the aperture for each shutter speed. ( the guide number changes with shutter speed). That's why I always used a baseline of 1/100th. If you want more exposure go to 1/50th, less exposure, go to 1/200th (or the nearest number). Simple, huh?

[Jac@stafford.net]

Maybe pop the top and flush with spray Trichloroethylene,

No. Just hike to the corner and get some good old-fashion lighter fluid.

(Oi! I'm beginning to talk to you as if you were my kid... who is probably your age!)

[Tin Can]

I just sound young, because I hang with young people.

I am 62, retired, and swimming as fast I can! The kids are catching up...

Ya, trike is bad juju, I bet the crackheads buy lighter fluid at the closeby gas station.

I got a couple hours. waiting for my test shoots to dry.

Remove the glass elements and soak in a cup of Naphtha? Under my vent hood!

No. Just hike to the corner and get some good old-fashion lighter fluid.

(Oi! I'm beginning to talk to you as if you were my kid... who is probably your age!)

[premortho]

Randy---I've never soaked them. I just take out the lens elements, dribble lighter fluid in the middle, turn it around and around facing me. I don't even take them off the lens board. After I rotate it a half a dozen times, I start cocking and firing the shutter on the slowest speed that will fire. start at 1/100th and work your way down. You may have to dose it with more lighter fluid. As you cock and fire it, it's getting washed inside. I only do it until the shutter fires correctly. You can let it dry under the kitchen hood for an hour, then try it again. If is still slow, do it again. Usually the second time is a charm. If this is the Compur shutter, send it off for a CLA as soon as you can. They are much more delicate than American shutters are.

[BrianShaw]

If you are going to do that, you want more of a flush than a soak.