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Michael Roberts
4-Apr-2013, 10:33
I tried searching for this, but these terms are apparently used too often....

So, anybody have a good, or even workable, method for repairing a cracked darkslide?

This material is the oft-seen composite stuff. My thought is to try super glue and then sand it down after it dries.

lenser
4-Apr-2013, 11:52
And if that crack doesn't go back together absolutely in perfect sync, you will find yourself with a perfectly glued pin hole leak directly onto the film behind it. It might be better to go on ebay and search for replacements.

SergeiR
4-Apr-2013, 11:57
Just buy new one or make one. I tried to glue one together and it wasnt fun.

Even for 8x10 you can find them for like 25$... you will spend same money on glue :)

IanG
4-Apr-2013, 12:36
It depends on the crack, I've reparied a few successfully with Super Glue and they don't leak light but I took a lot of care. These repaired slides have been replaced since and are now spares.

Ian

John Kasaian
4-Apr-2013, 14:29
It probably could be done. I don't know if it would be actually worth the time/effort/materials but hey, its a learning experience, right?
Find a compatible, light proof compound that dries flexible, roughen the area for good adhesion and filler 'er up then polish it super smooth---900 grit then polishing compound maybe? I'd be concerned about roughness boogering the emulsion and damaging the velvets.

jcoldslabs
4-Apr-2013, 14:55
If it's just a crack and not a hole I've used that really thin silver foil tape that we used to use in school for masking slides. Not sure what it is called, but it is opaque and so thin that it doesn't obstruct the slide from moving in and out. You can tape both sides of the crack and it works well, but it doesn't help with structural integrity if that's your issue.

Jonathan

IanG
5-Apr-2013, 00:53
It probably could be done. I don't know if it would be actually worth the time/effort/materials but hey, its a learning experience, right?
Find a compatible, light proof compound that dries flexible, roughen the area for good adhesion and filler 'er up then polish it super smooth---900 grit then polishing compound maybe? I'd be concerned about roughness boogering the emulsion and damaging the velvets.

I'd forgotten, I used non-chip Black Nail polish, I bent the slides slightly to get the Super glue into the cracks, I put some glue on a non porous surface and then used a pin to apply just enough, first though I'd rough up the edges of the cracks with the pin. The nail polish was used last to fill any crevices and then flattened off with #600 wet and dry. A bit of metal polish is enough to finish it off.

It's worth checking all your slides well every now and again as these crack can go unnoticed.

Ian

C. D. Keth
5-Apr-2013, 08:09
I have one that I repaired with testors black model enamel. I did a coat thinned down so it would wick into the crack and let that dry. Then I did a second coat unthinned so it would build up a tiny bit. Very fine sandpaper finished it off. There is a tiny bit more thickness on the area of the crack but it works with the light trap just fine.

Ari
5-Apr-2013, 11:27
If it's just a crack and not a hole I've used that really thin silver foil tape that we used to use in school for masking slides. Not sure what it is called, but it is opaque and so thin that it doesn't obstruct the slide from moving in and out. You can tape both sides of the crack and it works well, but it doesn't help with structural integrity if that's your issue.

Jonathan

Ditto for Jonathan's method.

Scott --
5-Apr-2013, 15:14
Just plain ol' 'lectrical tape. It's just a crack.

What size? I have a stack of 5x7 dark slides, if that's what you're needing.

C. D. Keth
5-Apr-2013, 16:19
Just plain ol' 'lectrical tape. It's just a crack.

What size? I have a stack of 5x7 dark slides, if that's what you're needing.

Blech, no! If you do that, you'll just have a sticky mess when it gets hot.

tenderobject
5-Apr-2013, 16:41
how about cloth tape?

jcoldslabs
5-Apr-2013, 16:44
I think the idea is you need something that won't get caught in or on the light trap as you pull the side in and out over time. Get a piece of sticky tape lodged in there and you're done for.

Jonathan

lenser
5-Apr-2013, 17:01
Even a successful repair that added to the thickness of the slide.....wouldn't that eventually wear out the light trap? I would still think just replacing it would be a better choice than later having to toss the whole holder.

Jim Galli
5-Apr-2013, 17:11
black gaffers paper tape. Not the duct tape type, the stuff that's like masking tape but black. It should be in your kit anyways. Patches a thousand holes. Also good when the hinge tape fails.

IanG
6-Apr-2013, 03:24
black gaffers paper tape. Not the duct tape type, the stuff that's like masking tape but black. It should be in your kit anyways. Patches a thousand holes. Also good when the hinge tape fails.

I had some black Invisible mend material, self adhesive sold in rectangles 10cm sq aprrox, very thin and lightproof. Great for bellows as very strong and flexible, never thought but it would be excellent for darkslides.

Ian

Lenny Eiger
6-Apr-2013, 20:17
I tried working with Grainger on this, they were totally useless. I even sent them a holder and the person just didn't want to bother with me.... very rude. They sent me some garrolite, which they said was opaque, but was the color of vomit. I also tried black carbon fiber - which was way too expensive. It would certainly be wonderful if someone know what that last stuff that Fidelity/Lisco actually used. I don't imagine they made it themselves. The stuff that is sort of like fiberboard, but actually plastic of some sort.

Apparently, Calumet owns both of them.... and they charge $20 for a single dark slide for 8x10. In my book, that's very greedy. If they were $2-5 for a set of 2 I would pay it happily. I bet a lot of other people would as well...

Lenny

Leszek Vogt
6-Apr-2013, 23:05
Thanks guys.....just gained some wisdom from this discussion. Slide repair does not appear to be worth the effort....and likely would ruin a good holder. At least to me, it makes no sense economically.

Les

Ian Gordon Bilson
7-Apr-2013, 03:10
In my humble experience,you simply can't bond a thin,highly stressed component along a thin,cracked edge. Super Glue?. Joke. And taped edges will destroy your light-trap as they traverse it.
You would be much better sourcing a tired old film holder from the usual online sites,scribing the d/slide and cutting it to make a replacement.

Michael Roberts
7-Apr-2013, 10:03
Thanks everyone for the ideas. I have repaired it as best I can, but I also am emailing Scott for a replacement since this one does happen to be 5x7.

Michael Roberts
7-Apr-2013, 10:44
Thanks everyone for the ideas. I have repaired it as best I can, but I also am emailing Scott for a replacement since this one does happen to be 5x7.

Scott --
8-Apr-2013, 06:51
Blech, no! If you do that, you'll just have a sticky mess when it gets hot.

Hasn't been a problem in about 4 years of summer and winter shooting, but I don't leave the loaded holders in a closed up car in August, either...

tenderobject
8-Apr-2013, 07:36
i got a pro gaffer camera tape a while ago.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161001915176?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

would this be good enough just to patch very small cracks on a darkslide or either the holders body? i didn't knew gaffer's would be light tight!