First 8x10 camera, and something bad

[A9tm]

This is my first time to evolve to LF, I've bought a wooden Burke & James 8x10 camera on the bay. It looks good as the seller's description, until I found out there's a looong crack at the right side of rear standard as you can see at below photo. I don't know was that camera DOA or something I don't want to talk.

Firstly I felt excited, and then it turned out very bad. I don't know can it be fixed, repaired, or it'll be broken when I don't take care it carefully in the future.

I highly appreciate if you could give me some idea about this situation.
Thanks,

http://i.imgur.com/fWkP4Sdl.jpg

P/S: I'm living overseas then I can't return the camera, unluckily.

[Ed Bray]

It doesn't look too bad to me, Have you tried putting a filmholder into the film gate then removing the lensboard and looking through the camera to see if there is any light leaking in, you will have to put a darkcloth over your head to prevent light seeping in between your face and the camera body.

I do suspect you would be able to fill the cracks though, especially as they appear to be along the grain lines with some sawdust mixed with some woodworkers glue or try some Gorilla Glue (google it) and push it into the cracks.

[Peter Gomena]

I don't own one of these particular cameras, but I have owned two antique wooden cameras.

First, it's usually not difficult to disassemble a wooden camera. Second, most repairs can be made with carpenter's wood glue. I'd take it apart to see how badly it's cracked, and go from there.

From what I can see in the picture, it looks as though the metal parts may have been over-tightened and damaged the wood. It may only be cosmetic damage, or it may be more serious. Depending on how it's made, some glue and reinforcement may do the job. If it's very badly cracked, you may need to use some epoxy to shore it up.

[RichardRitter]

Don't worry about it.
If and when it breaks then you fix it.
It will not affect the use of the camera.

[civich]

Don't worry about it.
If and when it breaks then you fix it.
It will not affect the use of the camera.

A9tm - I see that this is your first post to this forum. Pay attention to this advice. Richard has more camera repair experience than the rest of the forum members put together.

[Tim Meisburger]

Ya, I agree with Richard. Those are just surface checks in the wood. You can fill them with wood putty, or just leave them. If, on the other hand, the wood is actually split and I cannot see it, then dismount the hardware, open the crack a bit and glue the surfaces with white woodworkers glue, then clamp it back in place. Wipe up any excess with a damp paper towel. Tomorrow it will be fine.

[IanG]

I wouldn't worry, I've seen far worse cracks in cameras. That's easy to repair and is only showing because the paint's been removed.

Ian

[Steven Tribe]

The grain is uneven in this pece of wood - and original weaknesses have shown up due to continued drying out.

The crack nearest the edge needs to be filled up (glue) and you might as well do the other ones at the same time.
It will last for ever.

[John Kasaian]

Issues and answers like this exemplify the beauty of wooden cameras!:D
If it were my camera, I'd name it Elmer (but I have a warped sense if humor:rolleyes:)

[E. von Hoegh]

This is my first time to evolve to LF, I've bought a wooden Burke & James 8x10 camera on the bay. It looks good as the seller's description, until I found out there's a looong crack at the right side of rear standard as you can see at below photo. I don't know was that camera DOA or something I don't want to talk.

Firstly I felt excited, and then it turned out very bad. I don't know can it be fixed, repaired, or it'll be broken when I don't take care it carefully in the future.

I highly appreciate if you could give me some idea about this situation.
Thanks,

http://i.imgur.com/fWkP4Sdl.jpg

P/S: I'm living overseas then I can't return the camera, unluckily.

That's not a crack, it's a "check" It's most likely been there since the camera was built, but was invisible until someone stripped the grey paint off.

[boswald]

You do need to replace the paint, with a varnish if you want to see the grain(and the flaws). Richard is right, you can wait till it breaks, but don't let the environment attack/weaken/soften the wood(all those little screws will loosen). In Vermont, we see tourists going home with old furniture that they are going to take home, strip, and leave unfinished or finish in a modern style(stain or not, oil or poly varnish). I always said that there were not enough people in Vt to produce that much old furniture, then one day, I saw a northbound tractor-trailer pulled over for something, they opened the back, it was packed with old ratty chairs and tables!
Anyway, don't worry too much, it's not structural. Enjoy it. David

[DennisD]

Go out now with your camera and do some photography. Enjoy the camera and don't worry.

- if there's a problem you'll find out soon enough... and any problem you encounter will be easy to repair with all the advice you've already received here and all the additional advice you will receive if you ask again.

Be sure to post some of your images.

Dennis

[Jim Andrada]

Put a light of some kind in the camera and turn off the room lights. If you see light through the crack/check, then it needs to be fixed. If not (99.9999% probability) then just go take pictures and take Richard's advice.

[lenser]

Excuse me....I'm no B&J expert, so correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the bellows installed at the rear of the back section, behind where these "cracks" appear, and therefore completely away from any possibility of a light leak?

If that's the case. that means that these marks can ONLY be cosmetic in terms of shooting and only structural if they are actually cracks which would be dead simple to glue and clamp.

None of the wooden field and studio cameras I've had in my collection have had the bellows mounted anywhere else but just in front of the reversible backs at the very rear of the back frame.

[A9tm]

Thanks guys, I'll find some wooden glue and seal it tomorrow.

[Jim Jones]

Thanks guys, I'll find some wooden glue and seal it tomorrow.

Do the best possible job of gluing and clamping if it is really needed. It is easy to do the job right, and very difficult to redo it.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Do the best possible job of gluing and clamping if it is really needed. It is easy to do the job right, and very difficult to redo it.

If the gluing and clamping goes bad, you can remove the standard in question and microwave it on high for 30 seconds. The animal glue will soften and the whole thing will pull apart with a gentle tug. Then you can clean it up and start over.

[A9tm]

If the gluing and clamping goes bad, you can remove the standard in question and microwave it on high for 30 seconds. The animal glue will soften and the whole thing will pull apart with a gentle tug. Then you can clean it up and start over.

Thanks Jac for the tip with microwave.

Anyway, I've applied some wooden glue by the head of knife, hold it for awhile then it seems stick together (I felt the crack was deep enough from outer side to inner side of the wood, when I push it from inside). Detach the bellow for inspecting will cost much more time for this "cosmetic" issue, as you guys said.

My worry was the crack would deeper, deeper and larger in some occasion when carrying it to outdoor shoot, for example. But now, I'm less thinking of it. Thanks all :)