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Randy
7-Mar-2013, 10:48
I have been processing 8X10 X-ray film in trays using HC-110 "H" for a while now. I want to give my Uni-Color drums a try. I think I purchased them many years ago for processing Cibachrome prints. I have an 8X10 and an 11X14, with end caps.
Anyway, I have no experience processing film in any rotary processing methods, so I have some questions.

1 - Since the X-ray film I use has emulsion on both sides, and my drums have thin ribs that run the length of them, will the film contacting these thin ribs affect the processing of the emulsion layer that is against the ribs, causing me to have to strip the back emulsion layer?

2 - Since very little chemical is used in these processors, will I still be able to use dilution "H" (1:63) or will that exhaust to quickly, making dilution "B" necessary.

3 - I will be rotating the drum manually and assume that agitation has to be constant. Any thoughts on how fast I need to rotate the drum?

Wally
7-Mar-2013, 11:05
I use HC110 in unicolor and besseler drums for 5X7 HP5+. I use 150mL of dilution H, which is at the raggedy edge of what's recommended for minimum developer, and have seen no issues yet, but 8X10 at dil.H and you might be running out of juice. I'd recommend dilution D instead to keep from starving out on developer, especially with the double-load of silver.

I use the drum turner, which spins the drum about 20 rpm (rough guess), and it agitates continuously. It goes about 1.5 turns clockwise then about 1.5 turns counter-clockwise, which I think helps keep streaking away.

John Kasaian
7-Mar-2013, 12:28
My Unicolor has been giving me fits after over a decade of excellent service---1/4 of the film I exposed at my last shoot was screwed up because of uneven development and I stil can't unearth the problem so I'm tray developing now. With ortho film you can tray develop under a safe light---a piece of cake!:)

Randy
7-Mar-2013, 16:01
I tray process X-ray film with a red safe-light also, but the problem is that film is so prone to scratching. I was hoping that using the drum might solve that problem. If all I am going to do is scan, I can get rid of the scratches in PS, but if I want to contact print, which I would like to, I can't have all these darn scratches.

Jody_S
7-Mar-2013, 21:49
I gave up on the drum after some very uneven development. I started stripping off the back emulsion so I didn't care if it got developed, but rolling the drum over the counter as recommended in their instructions yielded much heavier development of the ends of the film. So I'm back to trays, emulsion-side up (notch the film so I can keep track), one sheet at a time, and if there's a scratch on the backside I don't care because it goes away when I strip. I still get minor scratching on the front from washing and hanging to dry. If I could wash each sheet individually I might solve that as well, or I need to get some SS hangers and a wash tank.

Randy
8-Mar-2013, 04:33
I gave up on the drum after some very uneven development. I started stripping off the back emulsion so I didn't care if it got developed, but rolling the drum over the counter as recommended in their instructions yielded much heavier development of the ends of the film.Well crap.

John Kasaian
8-Mar-2013, 06:38
If you are going to use the Unicolor, a motorized base! I have had many excellent negatives using one. It sounds as if maybe a smooth, ribless tank with those self adhesive silicon "bumps" Drew Wiley uses in trays would be less prone to scratching instead of the Unicolor's ribs. Just a thought.

Tav Walraven
8-Mar-2013, 09:45
Randy....

I have used the Ciba drums for years on a motorized base that turns both ways. All of my drums are smooth inside. I have only processed 11x14 and 12x20 film this way and they have always come out with no streaks or uneven development. Those negs have been used for pt/pd prints and it is the only way I'll process what film I have left in inventory. I've received 11x14 and 14x36 X-ray film and will cut the 14x36 down to 12x20 soon for testing and will try the same drum processing I have used in the past. I'm sure patience will be a large part of the equation with the potential scratching problems but with the price of Ilford film vs. x-ray film in ULF sizes, the wallet seems to stay thicker purchasing x-ray. I have a good friend with a fabricating shop and took him a piece of my 12x20 film. He cut a piece of stainless plate which is .058 thick to the exact size of the 12x20 film. I have a piece of glass cut to 14x22 and will put the x-ray film on that, put a piece of 24# paper on the film, then the stainless plate on the paper, weight it all down with a gallon container of water, and get to work with a utility knife. Hopefully, out comes (somewhat) inexpensive 12x20 film. I mention the above process for those interested in cutting down the 14x36 to any sized smaller formats not available in standard sizes. Time permitting, I hope to have this all done by Sunday and I'll report back with any results, success or failure!


tw

Randy
8-Mar-2013, 10:24
Thanks for the input Tav. I guess I just need to break down and try a couple sheets this weekend. I do not have a motorized drive so I will be rolling it around on the bathroom floor or perhaps kitchen counter.

SergeiR
8-Mar-2013, 10:38
Motorbase here...

I processed only couple of xrays in mine, but basically its same deal as with using jobo print tanks. If you put film carefully in - you not getting any problems at all. If you try to force-slide it - ribs will scratch other side of emulsion (i got both effects, b/c i didnt get first sheet in right and had to pull/force it a bit). If you stripping - wont matter. If you not stripping - then just carefully bend film get it inside of tank and then just kinda tuck it into groves.

As of uneven development - didnt see that one at all - both sides were perfectly developed.

I did presoak it for 5-7 minutes (as i do with regular film.. 5 normally, but sometime if i do something while it soaks - i do get carried away ;)).

Jody_S
8-Mar-2013, 10:45
As of uneven development - didnt see that one at all - both sides were perfectly developed.



I see I'm the only one getting uneven development? Well, I'm pulling the processing quite a bit, my times are 3 to 3.5 minutes with 1:31 HC-110. I've gotten streaks with tray processing also; I'm having to look at my tray rocking proceedure. Plus, I'm shooting snowy scenes, with large uniform white areas, so this is very unforgiving and the slightest hint of uneven development ruins the neg. I haven't had any problems with the Unicolor drum with longer dev times and my normal landscape scenes.

Carl J
8-Mar-2013, 10:53
Tav,

Please keep us posted! Never heard of the Ciba drums but will look them up. I'm using Unicolor drums with 8x10 single-sided X-ray film and don't have to worry about scratching from the ribs. Film cost is somewhat higher -- Kodak B/RA @ ca. $70/100 sheets (although probably higher now) -- but still a reasonable trade-off.

But wondering if anyone has found single-sided emulsion x-ray film in sizes larger than 8x10? I've tried navigating various seller sites but still haven't come up with a clear answer yet. I know mammography film is single-sided but so far have only found it in 8x10.

SergeiR
8-Mar-2013, 13:58
I see I'm the only one getting uneven development? Well, I'm pulling the processing quite a bit, my times are 3 to 3.5 minutes with 1:31 HC-110. I've gotten streaks with tray processing also; I'm having to look at my tray rocking proceedure. Plus, I'm shooting snowy scenes, with large uniform white areas, so this is very unforgiving and the slightest hint of uneven development ruins the neg. I haven't had any problems with the Unicolor drum with longer dev times and my normal landscape scenes.

Could be times and developer. I am not super comfy with HC-110 :)

Tav Walraven
8-Mar-2013, 16:40
Carl...
I do have a few on them. They work great for me up to 12x20. My research never found one-sided over 8x10.

tw

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc187/Grainfed/IMG_1122_zpsbdca90b4.jpg

Jim Fitzgerald
10-Mar-2013, 19:41
Don't reinvent the wheel. Many threads on developing x-ray film. KIIS is the way to go. If you try to use drums please let us know and good luck. :)

Carl J
10-Mar-2013, 23:02
Carl...
I do have a few on them. They work great for me up to 12x20. My research never found one-sided over 8x10.

tw



Hi Tav,

That's an impressive array of developing tubes! Hope your project to cut down to 12x20 works out. Very interested in this. Curious though, wasn't sure from your posting if you've already successfully processed the 8x10 or 11x14 X-ray in the Ciba tubes?

Yes, as Jim says KISS, for me (for now) that means tubes as I don't yet have a properly darkened room (bathroom, to be precise) to develop in trays or hangars w/tanks.

Jim Fitzgerald
11-Mar-2013, 07:05
Hi Tav,

That's an impressive array of developing tubes! Hope your project to cut down to 12x20 works out. Very interested in this. Curious though, wasn't sure from your posting if you've already successfully processed the 8x10 or 11x14 X-ray in the Ciba tubes?

Yes, as Jim says KISS, for me (for now) that means tubes as I don't yet have a properly darkened room (bathroom, to be precise) to develop in trays or hangars w/tanks.

If you don't scratch the film the it is KIIS! That is what I mean. With a red safe light you don't need areally dark room. I use my bathroom as well.

SergeiR
11-Mar-2013, 07:18
Carl...
I do have a few on them. They work great for me up to 12x20. My research never found one-sided over 8x10.

tw


that it some serious processing porn :) I feel like i need few more tanks now too :)

Tav Walraven
11-Mar-2013, 08:32
There is a place here in town that sells used and OLD used photo equipment. Several trips there allowed me to stock up on the Ciba drums shown and he probably has more.

Carl.......Didn't get any time to try out any processing yesterday. I'll post results soon on both the film cutting and CIBA tube tests.

Andrew O'Neill
11-Mar-2013, 14:11
You are flirting with disaster if you develop double-sided xray film in tubes/drums. Like Jim said, you don't need a darkened room. I have a bright amber safelight in my darkroom. Flat-bottomed trays are the best, or if you can master them, hangers.

Carl J
11-Mar-2013, 15:15
Jim/Andrew,

You've inspired me to get serious about developing in the bathroom with a safelight (been wanting to try Pyrocat HD). Will see how much light leaks in from the edge of the window curtain and, if needed, figure out a not too inconvenient way to cover the spill.

Thanks.

Jim Fitzgerald
11-Mar-2013, 15:30
I think with x-ray film if you block as much light as you can and have the red safe light on it should be okay. Just block asmuch as you can as I said. A small amount may not be a problem. YOu will love watching your film come to life before your eyes.