View Full Version : TriX 320 with HC110 Push/Pull Times?

27-Feb-2013, 14:26
I found a chart at one point that listed times for push/pull with hc110 and trix but cant seem to find it via google now. Does anyone know of one?

27-Feb-2013, 14:44
try the Kodak B&W darkroom dataguide.

27-Feb-2013, 14:52
I have not been able to find that other than print versions, have you seen it as a pdf anywhere?

27-Feb-2013, 16:47
Lots of suggestions in the massive development chart (http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php) but ultimately you'll need to try some stuff and see how it turns out.

My usual routine for Tri-X and HC-110 is 1:49 for 8 minutes so I have been pushing it two stops and developing for 16 minutes. Works but gets a lot of contrast so now I am thinking about agitating less.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8110/8509400690_8ffe8e6f31_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/delorenzo/8509400690/)
River Runner (http://www.flickr.com/photos/delorenzo/8509400690/) by Anthony DeLorenzo (http://www.flickr.com/people/delorenzo/), on Flickr

27-Feb-2013, 16:48
My copy is from 1980. It was required as part of the photography course when I attended the local college way back then. You might find a copy on ebay or for sale on this forum or other photography forums.

If no one is selling a copy, just place a WTD ad in the forum's classified section.

27-Feb-2013, 17:08
Thanks I will have to do some tests from the massive chart. Curious how it looks if I shoot TriX 320 at 100 or 50. Don't like having to crank paste f40 for a portraits in natural light.

27-Feb-2013, 18:01
Does not seem like they have anything in it for push/pull and trix 320, anyone have some guesses or starting points to try if I shoot trix 320 at 100?

Kevin Crisp
27-Feb-2013, 18:09
Shave off two full minutes and you should be close.

Kevin Crisp
27-Feb-2013, 18:10
Shave off two full minutes and you should be close.

On your first shot, shoot two identical exposures. Take off a couple minutes and develop the first one. Adjust if necessary.

27-Feb-2013, 18:27
Thanks I will give that a try

Neal Chaves
1-Mar-2013, 18:47
I'm going to repost the data I gave you in a previous thread. Any given film emulsion is going to produce the best negative quality only within a limited effective film speed range. Since film speed is an important selling point, manufacturers tend to rate their films at the high end of that range. When Tri-X was first introduced, Kodak rated it at 200, then later rerated it at 400 without changing a thing.

In any given lighting situation (SBR), film can only be pulled (contraction) or pushed (expanded) a finite amount or the resulting prints will be too flat or too contrasty, even when attempts to normalise contrast are made in the printing process.

I use diffusion enlargers and have used a great deal of Tri-X in the past. Now I use Ilford HP5+. I did extensive tests on both and found them essentially identical. Using HC110 B in tray development, I find a time of 5:00 at 68* produces a "normal" negative exposed for 100EI. A time of 7:30 will produce a normal negative with the film rated at 400EI. The negative from the 100 sceme will have slightly more shadow and highlight detail, seen only upon careful examination side by side of prints from both the 100EI and 400EI negatives. If I use a water presoak when processing a stack of sheets, I add an additonal thirty seconds.

Expansions and contractions are done as follows. I keep the time constant and vary the dilution.
N-1 3/4 oz. concentrate to 31 1/4 oz H20 EI is one half the N speed
N-2 1/2 oz. concentrate to 31 1/2 oz. H20 EI is one quarter of the N speed
N+1 1 1/2 oz. concentrate to 30 1/2 oz H20 EI is twice the N speed
N+2 2 oz concentrate to 30 oz H20 EI is four times the N speed

For several years when I first started developing this way with Tri-X, I used an N speed of 64 for 5:00 at 68* in HC110 B, but I later increased it to 100. If you look at Phil Davis' BTZS charts, you can pick off the Tri-X speed as EI 64 at 5:00 in HC110 B. Of course, your times and speeds may be quite different due to variables in shutter, meters, water quality, etc.

1-Mar-2013, 19:32
Thanks Neal, I will have to do some testing this weekend.