Any recomendations for some cheap metal work?

[sully75]

I have a Copal 3 shutter with a very wide retaining ring. The ring blocks it from fitting in my linhof copy lens board. I'd like to get the ring turned down. I'd like to not pay an arm and a leg to do it. I remember hearing that there was a member on here who used to do affordable work. Any suggestions? Rough but workable would be fine by me. 90028

[Vick Ko]

Why not do it yourself? Get a new sharp file from the hardware store. The retaining ring is likely only aluminum, or maybe brass. It would go really fast.

[B.S.Kumar]

Paul, that's actually a flange that goes on the front of the lensboard, and is held with screws and nuts. A Copal 3 shutter usually has a spacer ring between the shutter and the lensboard. Otherwise it may be difficult to operate the shutter. If the screw holes on the flange do not interfere with the light baffle (the raised ring on the back of the lensboard), it might be easier to drill holes into the board and put the flange on the front.

Kumar

[Jac@stafford.net]

I agree with B.S. Kumar. It is supposed to go on the front of the board. Used as a jam-nut probably won't work well due to close fit to the shutter, as Kumar said.

It is very likely that the screw holes will go right through the light baffle ring on the back without harm. I have done this myself. You should drill and tap the board to suit the screws. If you cannot do this, then it is an easy job for a pro.

Go to the big auction site and search for item # 130855576789, and look at the pictures of the back of the lens. It shows where the screw holes are likely to fit.

[Jon Shiu]

probably cheaper just to buy a retaining ring from ebay.

Jon

[Preston]

Contact SK Grimes. Since you already have the appropriate flange and board, you can send those items, along with the lens, and they will mount it for you.

I had this done very recently with my 70's vintage Xenar 210/4.5 Copal-3 on a Linhof board. They did an excellent job, and it wasn't very costly. It works just fine on my Chamonix.

If you want a retaining ring, you'll have to know the exact diameter and thread size that will fit your lens. You will also need the spacer, as has been mentioned. SK Grimes does sell rings and spacers, but again it's easier to send the lens to them and have them mount it for you.

--P

[Ari]

Find a local machinist, or a retired gentleman with a garage.
Or as someone here once suggested to me, affix the shutter with hot glue; apparently it holds very well, yet is quite easy to remove if needed.

[Leigh]

That flange belongs on the front of the lensboard, not the back.

It looks too big to fit on the front. You need clearance for the retaining hardware.

It might be possible to mill enough of the flange off to clear the hardware, but that would require having the shutter along with the flange and board so the shutter control levers would be positioned properly when the shutter is tightened in the flange.

- Leigh

[sully75]

Thanks everyone. I hate to say it but I think Ari's suggestion might be the winner...

[sully75]

ok I think I need the flange in front of the board to clear the camera. I'll try Grimes. Annoyingly, the outer rim of the flange is bigger than the hole of the lensboard...

[sully75]

Contact SK Grimes. Since you already have the appropriate flange and board, you can send those items, along with the lens, and they will mount it for you.

I had this done very recently with my 70's vintage Xenar 210/4.5 Copal-3 on a Linhof board. They did an excellent job, and it wasn't very costly. It works just fine on my Chamonix.

If you want a retaining ring, you'll have to know the exact diameter and thread size that will fit your lens. You will also need the spacer, as has been mentioned. SK Grimes does sell rings and spacers, but again it's easier to send the lens to them and have them mount it for you.

--P

Preston, how much is "not too costly"?

[Jac@stafford.net]

Preston, how much is "not too costly"?

You can contact them via the email at their site. Include your pictures, and description such as you have here.

They are likely to write back within a couple days with a quote. Then you will know for certain.

It worked for me. Over the years they have mastered this kind of work to the extent that the prices are reasonable.

[Preston]

Paul,

Each project that SK Grimes does has different requirements, so my cost may or may not be the same as the cost for your project. As Jac says, contact them with as much info as you can and they will reply with a quote.

They do suggest that you send the parts that you have to them. They will evaluate what needs to be done and will reply with a quote. This option leaves less to chance, in my opinion.

--P

[C. D. Keth]

Oh just do it yourself. You need a hacksaw and a course file. Use the hacksaw to remove as much of the material around the thicker threaded ring as you can. Use the file to remove the rest. The hacksaw or a finer file can be used to make notches for a spanner. It'll take you 45 minutes and you'll have it now.