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ScottPhotoCo
19-Feb-2013, 23:43
So I need to process some 4x5 TMax 100 I shot today and realized that I'm out of my usual developer, TMax RS. I have some D76 here that I guess I can try but I've yet to use this developer. Is there anything I should know before I begin?

I usually process starting with the times on the Massive Dev Chart. In this case is recommends 1+1 for 11:15 at 20 degrees Celsius or stock strength for 5:45. Is there a benefit for either way?

Also, I usually agitate for the first minute and the for 10 seconds every minute following. Same process for D76?

Anything else I should keep in mind?

Thanks in advance!

Tim
www.ScottPhoto.co

Doremus Scudder
20-Feb-2013, 03:56
I would never develop important film in a developer I had never tested and calibrated. My advice would be to spend a bit of time with some test negs to make sure you can get good results from D-76 or wait till you can get the developer you are used to again.

Best,

Doremus

Keith Tapscott.
20-Feb-2013, 05:28
I suggest downloading the technical publication from Kodak's website and start with what they recommend.

Michael Graves
20-Feb-2013, 05:40
I agree with Doremus. Never process film in an untested developer. Results will be unpredictable. Even if you do get the expected density range, you will experience other side effects that may affect image quality. D76 has a slightly solvent effect on film grain. Some people like it, some people don't. But it impacts how the final image prints on paper. Highlights and shadows develop differently between two developers, so the density gradient between dark tones and light tones will be different as well. Stick with what you know for "live" shots.

Scott Walker
20-Feb-2013, 06:56
D76 1:1 for 11 minutes is my standard developer and time for normal development with TMax 100.
I tray develop and use constant but gentle agitation for the first minute then 7 seconds ofaggressivee agitation once every following minute.
I also pre-soak for 5 minutes in water. I develop 1 sheet per tray and work 4 trays at a time.

I have tried developing with straight solution but was not happy with the results.

I also agree with Doremus, but since you are asking the question, the negatives are obviously not something that can't be easily redone if you are not completely satisfied with the results.

jp
20-Feb-2013, 10:33
D76 at 1:1 or even 1:2 is respectable and capable and widely copied, but I agree you should try it first.

It was what I first used and developed lots of nice negatives in it, but I tired of mixing it, and it was no longer was available locally. I liked that tmax developer was liquid but it was costly. So eventually I have settled on liquid concentrated pyrocat-HD and PMK from formulary. Formulary sell some sort of tmax-like developer as well which I haven't tried.

ScottPhotoCo
20-Feb-2013, 11:18
Thanks for all of the comments! I wish I had time to wait for the TMax developer that I'm used to but I had to order it and it won't be here for a few days. I'm going to take a chance and go ahead and try the D76 with the ideas here and the Kodak recommended times. Wish me luck... :)

Tim
www.ScottPhoto.co

MIke Sherck
20-Feb-2013, 14:09
One thing about Tmax film and D76 should you decide to try it -- Tmax likes FRESH D76. Results will be lower in contrast and resolution from even week old D76. If you decide to try it, mix up fresh D76 and use that. I use D-76 straight at Kodak's recommended time, in trays, with continuous gentle agitation (shuffling through the stack of negatives, typically 8-12 negatives in an 8x10 try with 1 qt. of fresh D76.

Good luck!

Mike

ScottPhotoCo
20-Feb-2013, 15:16
One thing about Tmax film and D76 should you decide to try it -- Tmax likes FRESH D76. Results will be lower in contrast and resolution from even week old D76. If you decide to try it, mix up fresh D76 and use that. I use D-76 straight at Kodak's recommended time, in trays, with continuous gentle agitation (shuffling through the stack of negatives, typically 8-12 negatives in an 8x10 try with 1 qt. of fresh D76.

Good luck!

Mike

Thanks Mike! I just went for it and things seem to have worked just fine. I went with stock D76, freshly mixed (well, last night anyway) and followed the Kodak recommended agitation (5-7 inversions then 4 inversions every 30 seconds) using my Paterson tank with the MOD54. Sometimes you just gotta go for it. :)

Tim
www.ScottPhoto.co

Frank Pittel
20-Feb-2013, 20:10
One thing about Tmax film and D76 should you decide to try it -- Tmax likes FRESH D76. Results will be lower in contrast and resolution from even week old D76. If you decide to try it, mix up fresh D76 and use that. I use D-76 straight at Kodak's recommended time, in trays, with continuous gentle agitation (shuffling through the stack of negatives, typically 8-12 negatives in an 8x10 try with 1 qt. of fresh D76.

Good luck!

Mike

So Mike, When did you start mixing fresh D76? :cool:

StoneNYC
21-Feb-2013, 06:27
Thanks Mike! I just went for it and things seem to have worked just fine. I went with stock D76, freshly mixed (well, last night anyway) and followed the Kodak recommended agitation (5-7 inversions then 4 inversions every 30 seconds) using my Paterson tank with the MOD54. Sometimes you just gotta go for it. :)

Tim
www.ScottPhoto.co

How do you love the MOD54? I've been thinking of getting one, pluses and minuses?

neil poulsen
21-Feb-2013, 09:17
So I'm wondering, what's the difference between FRESH D76, and say, week-old D76? Has it oxidized? I'm switching to D76 from ID11. Maybe I should wait a bit after mixing before doing my calibrations.

MIke Sherck
21-Feb-2013, 09:29
So I'm wondering, what's the difference between FRESH D76, and say, week-old D76? Has it oxidized? I'm switching to D76 from ID11. Maybe I should wait a bit after mixing before doing my calibrations.

Note: I'm not a chemist, nor do I play one on TV. :) My understanding is that oxidation is indeed the culprit but that's just from reading and talking to people. I have personally noticed a difference when developing Tmax-100 in freshly mixed D-76 vs. D-76 mixed a week before and stored in a 1/2 full gallon jug. The film developed in the old D-76 was at least a stop lower in contrast and had larger grain than the film developed in fresh D-76.

Mike

MIke Sherck
21-Feb-2013, 09:30
So Mike, When did you start mixing fresh D76? :cool:

Hiya, Frank! You're just jealous that they still make the film I like! :)

Mike

ScottPhotoCo
21-Feb-2013, 09:44
How do you love the MOD54? I've been thinking of getting one, pluses and minuses?

The MOD54 works well for what it does. I can do up to six sheets at once. It took me a little bit to get used to loading it but now it's pretty easy. I was unhappy at first that the sheets sometimes came loose in the processing. After a little experimentation I figured out that they came loose while pouring liquids OUT too quickly. I now just pour a little slower and it's working great.

It does what I need it too and is easier for me than trays at this point. :)

Tim
www.ScottPhoto.co

Frank Pittel
21-Feb-2013, 19:00
Hiya, Frank! You're just jealous that they still make the film I like! :)

Mike

I can't prove it but I know for a fact that you were somehow involved in Efke going under!! :)

Ian Gordon Bilson
21-Feb-2013, 20:34
Mike Sherck's comments about "fresh D-76" have me bemused. It is well documented that D-76 gains activity in the few days after mixing. I have personal experience of this-getting horrible thin negatives from a batch mixed and used immediately. A week later,the same batch gave normal,predictable results. Go figure..

StoneNYC
21-Feb-2013, 23:56
Mike Sherck's comments about "fresh D-76" have me bemused. It is well documented that D-76 gains activity in the few days after mixing. I have personal experience of this-getting horrible thin negatives from a batch mixed and used immediately. A week later,the same batch gave normal,predictable results. Go figure..

Isn't D-76 a throw away dev? Or is it re-usable? I always mix my dev's minutes before I start processing...

Doremus Scudder
22-Feb-2013, 05:17
So I'm wondering, what's the difference between FRESH D76, and say, week-old D76? Has it oxidized? I'm switching to D76 from ID11. Maybe I should wait a bit after mixing before doing my calibrations.

Neil,

ID-11 is for all practical purposes identical to D-76. You're only switching manufacturers, not developer.

Both D-76 and ID-11 have the documented characteristic of gaining a bit of activity after being stored for a while, so there will be a small difference in negatives developed with freshly-mixed D-76 and, say, week-old D-76. Normally, this difference is negligible, but noticeable. Most find it too small to worry about.

Best,

Doremus

Frank Pittel
22-Feb-2013, 07:08
Mike Sherck's comments about "fresh D-76" have me bemused. It is well documented that D-76 gains activity in the few days after mixing. I have personal experience of this-getting horrible thin negatives from a batch mixed and used immediately. A week later,the same batch gave normal,predictable results. Go figure..

In the "official" recipe for D76 the hydroquinone <SP?> isn't active and only the metol actually does the development. This is a result of the PH being to low. However after D76 is mixed the hydroquinone <SP?> reacts with the Sodium Sulphite and causes an increase in PH which is enough to make the hydroquinone active causing an increase in development. Unless you plan on using the D76 in a replenishment line it's best to simply eliminate the hydroquinone and increase the metol to 2.5gm per liter of stock.

It won't help with the drop off in activity over time resulting in oxidation but I mix it one liter at a time so that's never an issue for me. :)

StoneNYC
22-Feb-2013, 09:07
In the "official" recipe for D76 the hydroquinone <SP?> isn't active and only the metol actually does the development. This is a result of the PH being to low. However after D76 is mixed the hydroquinone <SP?> reacts with the Sodium Sulphite and causes an increase in PH which is enough to make the hydroquinone active causing an increase in development. Unless you plan on using the D76 in a replenishment line it's best to simply eliminate the hydroquinone and increase the metol to 2.5gm per liter of stock.

It won't help with the drop off in activity over time resulting in oxidation but I mix it one liter at a time so that's never an issue for me. :)

So times listed, are they for newly mixed or "active" week old mix?

Frank Pittel
22-Feb-2013, 10:00
So times listed, are they for newly mixed or "active" week old mix?

I would use the listed times for the "newly mixed".

Truth be told when using a new film/developer combination I do testing to determine the film speed to use and development time. I also like to use freshly mixed d76h. It's fast and easy to do and by using distilled water to mix it I don't have to heat the water to 120F prior to mixing. Meaning I can mix up a liter or even half liter just prior to use.