HC110 or Pyrocat HD for FP4

[Kevin Klazek]

I am a long time user of HC110 (Dil H) with FP4. I use slosher trays for 5x7 and 8x10 with a semi stand method. I am thinking of trying the pyrocat due to all the positive comments on this combo. I have read a lot threads and info already, but have not seen much with a slosh tray method.

A few questions...

Will my development method work well with Pyrocat?
What is a good starting time for development ( I normally work at EI 50 on the film)?
What type of agitation cycle is recommended?
What stop times and fix times are best?

Any other tips or recommendatons in the processing?

Thanks

Kevin

[phil sweeney]

You probably can use the film at EI 100 with pyrocat - though your tests will prove the best speed. I use TF3 for fix.

[Ken Lee]

Try some test images first.

Read this article to get some perspective. You'll note that Sandy King has tested with FP4+ quite a bit, and regards it highly among films of that speed range. The Ilford films give less of a "fog" or background stain, and respond in a rather linear manner to changes in development time.

As to SemiStand and other methods of compensation for scenes of high contrast, have a look at this page, which discusses the use of Divided Pyrocat. It's the bees knees, as they say. Compared to other tedious methods, it's laughably simple, and lets you shoot in subject brightness ranges that would ordinarily send you home with your tail between your legs - or even worse - reaching for a digital camera to make a series of HDR overlays

I've been shooting with FP4+ lately, by accidentally ordering the wrong film (instead of HP5+) in 5x7. As predicted, it has worked very nicely with Pyrocat HD, and I am thinking of using it for my standard film. While I have always shot all films at half the recommended film speed, I am finding that this film/developer combination does well at around ISO 75 or maybe even 100 , as Phil has articulated. Surprise for me, "I told you so" for Professor King.

One issue that I have found, which is sometimes discussed but not mentioned in any official literature, is how to remove the slight magenta cast, which the developer gives to the film. After fix and brief rinse, about 10 minutes in Hypo Clear bath will remove it. You can make your own Hypo Clear or "Washing Aid' by mixing a 1% solution of Sodium Sulfite, which is a very inexpensive chemical. One teaspoon in a liter of water is roughly 1%. (From what I have been able to find, the only active ingredient in Hypo Clear formulas, is Sodium Sulfite. The rest is just stabilizer, to ensure shelf life. If you mix your own and toss when done, there is no need for stabilizers, etc.)

[mdm]

FP4+ is very nice in pyrocat. I was very happy with 1:1:100 in BTZS style tubes but struggled to stay awake late enough to get any developing done (mine are not light tight and the sun sets very late in summer) so have recently changed to 1:1:150 and 4 agitation cycles of 4 elastic banded 4x5 sheets in a standard 35mm developing tank, 35 minutes, as per recomendations in another pyrocat thread somewhere. I had some doubt about some of the negatives but they scanned very well. It is very important to be consistent with your agitation and to jolt the tank to dislodge bubbles. I am now using a lot more developer but it would have gone off before I would have finished it anyway, using BTZS tubes.

Slosher trays should work well. I use Ilford Hypam fixer with no trouble. 1 minute 'stop' bath in water.

Regards
David

[IanG]

Second the use of Hypam, or Ilford Rapid Fixer, after Pyrocat. It's better to use a slightly acid fixer particularly when using water instead of acid stop bath.

Ian

[sanking]

Originally Posted by IanG

Second the use of Hypam, or Ilford Rapid Fixer, after Pyrocat. It's better to use a slightly acid fixer particularly when using water instead of acid stop bath.

Ian

I answer a lot of private email on the question of alkaline versus acid fixer for Pyrocat-HD so thought it might be appropriate to respond.

In The Book of Pyro Gordon Hutchings advises the use of an alkaline fixer with PMK and I assume that he still does. Years ago when I used PMK I generally followed this advice, though in some personal tests I did not find that the use of a slightly acidic fixer had any negative impact on the stain.

When I first developed and introduced the Pyrocat-HD formula I also recommended the use of an alkaline fixer. My thinking at this time is that it does not make any difference whether one uses with Pyrocat-HD an alkaline fixer or one that is slightly acidic.

My personal procedure for negatives developed in Pyrocat is to use an acid stop bath of about 1/2 normal strength, followed by an alkaline fixer like the Formulary TF-4.

Sandy King

[Gem Singer]

FYI,

The Photographer's Formulary now has an improved version of their TF-4 fixer.

TF-5 has little, or no odor and is no longer formulated in a super-saturated milky solution that required shaking before use.

I prefer keeping the entire process alkaline eliminating the unpleasant smell of acetic acid stop bath.

[Richard Wasserman]

[quote=Gem Singer;556823
I prefer keeping the entire process alkaline eliminating the unpleasant smell of acidic stop bath.[/QUOTE]


Citric acid makes a good odor-free stop bath.

Pyrocat HD and FP-4 is my primary 4x5 combination, they are great together.

[Ken Lee]

What is the benefit of a mildly acid stop bath ? Is it to arrest development more instantaneously and completely ?

Performing development by inspection, with the aid of an Infra Red viewing device, I sometimes place a sheet of film in the (water) stop bath, and return it to the developer, on further consideration, bur a little more development.

Does development continue once the film is immersed in water ?

[Ken Lee]

"Citric acid makes a good odor-free stop bath."

I'm so glad you mentioned that. I was wondering, since I have some left over from my excursion into the realm of Pt/Pd.

Could you suggest a formula, IE a dilution ?