Which 8x10 100 ISO ?

John Kasaian · 6-Oct-2004, 06:17

I'm quite happy with my favorite flavors of FP-4+(Ultrafine and Arista) and intend to keep on using it for as long as its available(hopefully, a long long time!) but since Plus X no longer is available, having a panchro 100 ISO film to fall back on should FP-4+ "succumb." I was never a Boy Scout but I'd like to be prepared!

The trouble is choosing one. While nothing will take the place of my own experimentation, I'd appreciate some input by those who shoot the 100s as a place to start. I figure I have three choices:

Fortepan or J and C Classic 100. While I've used and like Fortepan 200, I've never used the 100. Its the most affordable of the lot. Anyone use it? Anyone really like it? Why?

Efke PL100. I've read lots of posts about this one---being scratch prone seems to be a complaint but is this a widespread problem? BTW, since I've started using a Unicolor I haven't had any problems with scratches---should I expect continued good results with PL100 or not? More important, does it share the same neat "look" that PL25 is noted for?

Kodak Tmax 100. The most costly of the batch. I've used and like Tmax 400---never had a problem with it though its reputed to be a more fussy than conventional grain film(I've only used TmaxRS to develop though.) In your opinion is Tmax 100 more or less of a Prima Donna? John Sexton gets wonderful results from it but I'm afraid my technique is considerably more "laid back" than his.

Any guidence is sure appreciated!

Francesco · 6-Oct-2004, 11:32

John, I only use two films, Efke PL100 being one of them and also being my primary film. I use it with Pyrocat HD and develop in tubes using minimal agitation (see the AZO forum on more about this agitation procedure). In the beginning I was plagued with scratches on the emulsion side but since using fiberglass mesh screen as backing for my negs before inserting into the tubes I have had no scratches now for nearly 150 sheets of film. I have used FP4+. Efke PL100 is in my experience superior in every respect. It is very flexible - I have exposed and developed it from N+2 to N-8 (SBR 5 to 15). It has excellent reciprocity characteristics. I print only on AZO paper and I have found this film to build excellent general and local contrast without much corresponding increase in density. The new Grade 2 AZO has an extremely long tonal scale and Efke PL100 is the only 100 ASA film I know commercially available that can match that. I have never used Efke 25 and do not see the need to go that slow what with all the positive results I get from its faster brother.

Francesco · 6-Oct-2004, 11:33

John, I only use two films, Efke PL100 being one of them and also being my primary film. I use it with Pyrocat HD and develop in tubes using minimal agitation (see the AZO forum on more about this agitation procedure). In the beginning I was plagued with scratches on the emulsion side but since using fiberglass mesh screen as backing for my negs before inserting into the tubes I have had no scratches now for nearly 150 sheets of film. I have used FP4+. Efke PL100 is in my experience superior in every respect. It is very flexible - I have exposed and developed it from N+2 to N-8 (SBR 5 to 15). It has excellent reciprocity characteristics. I print only on AZO paper and I have found this film to build excellent general and local contrast without much corresponding increase in density. The new Grade 2 AZO has an extremely long tonal scale and Efke PL100 is the only 100 ASA film I know commercially available that can match that. I have never used Efke 25 and do not see the need to go that slow what with all the positive results I get from its faster brother.

Francesco (www.cicoli.com)

Francesco · 6-Oct-2004, 11:34

Apologies for the double posting.

Jim Galli · 6-Oct-2004, 12:39

John, I'm an Efke 100pl convert. I've been getting some remarkable negatives with it. I've been buying the 100 foot roll for cirkut camera and cutting it up in 8" pieces for the 8X10 holders. I haven't experienced scratches even with the extra handling. Maybe I'm too dumb to see them. I like it so much I've got a freezer full of other stuff that may never get used. It's "look" seems better in every way to me than the fp4 clones (same as yours) I've been using before it. Also Pcat HD.

David Beal · 6-Oct-2004, 15:37

John, I use homemade BTZS tubes and have had no problems with scratching PL100. However, it is a soft emulsion when wet (OK when dry).

PL100 is NOT the same as Efke 50 or Efke 25; those films are quasi-orthochromatic, and are said to be better for portraiture than PL100, which is Efke's panchromatic low speed film.

Good shooting.

Jay DeFehr · 6-Oct-2004, 16:16

Hi John. J&C Pro 100 is the only housebrand 8x10 film they carry, and it isn't Forte, it's the Chinese stuff. Haven't tried it myself, but I've been meaning to. You can get it for $1/sheet if you buy 1000 sheets! I wish they did carry the 100 speed Forte film, because I like it very much. Reminds me of Verichrome Pan. J&C classic 200 is also a good 100 speed film, if you want it to be.

ramin · 7-Oct-2004, 00:54

Ciao Francesco. Could you post the address of this Azo forum please. i couldnt find it in search.

cheers

Francesco · 7-Oct-2004, 01:11

Ramin, here you go http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/startframe.html

Francesco (www.cicoli.com)

Dan Smith · 7-Oct-2004, 02:42

If you are looking at any alt process work in the future forget TMax 100. It has some kind of UV light blocker in the base & will make platinum or any other process that is exposed by UV light nearly impossible. What was a very good film is not trash can material as a result. Yep, another "nothing has changed" result from The Yellow Godfather & his new coating facility.

Maybe we are supposed to be happy that Tri-X doesn't have this base?

6-Oct-2004, 06:17	#1
John Kasaian Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: San Joaquin Valley, California Posts: 4,400	Which 8x10 100 ISO ? I'm quite happy with my favorite flavors of FP-4+(Ultrafine and Arista) and intend to keep on using it for as long as its available(hopefully, a long long time!) but since Plus X no longer is available, having a panchro 100 ISO film to fall back on should FP-4+ "succumb." I was never a Boy Scout but I'd like to be prepared! The trouble is choosing one. While nothing will take the place of my own experimentation, I'd appreciate some input by those who shoot the 100s as a place to start. I figure I have three choices: Fortepan or J and C Classic 100. While I've used and like Fortepan 200, I've never used the 100. Its the most affordable of the lot. Anyone use it? Anyone really like it? Why? Efke PL100. I've read lots of posts about this one---being scratch prone seems to be a complaint but is this a widespread problem? BTW, since I've started using a Unicolor I haven't had any problems with scratches---should I expect continued good results with PL100 or not? More important, does it share the same neat "look" that PL25 is noted for? Kodak Tmax 100. The most costly of the batch. I've used and like Tmax 400---never had a problem with it though its reputed to be a more fussy than conventional grain film(I've only used TmaxRS to develop though.) In your opinion is Tmax 100 more or less of a Prima Donna? John Sexton gets wonderful results from it but I'm afraid my technique is considerably more "laid back" than his. Any guidence is sure appreciated! __________________ "Tradition is not the worship of ashes, but the preservation of fire"---GKC

6-Oct-2004, 11:32	#2
Francesco Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 32	Which 8x10 100 ISO ? John, I only use two films, Efke PL100 being one of them and also being my primary film. I use it with Pyrocat HD and develop in tubes using minimal agitation (see the AZO forum on more about this agitation procedure). In the beginning I was plagued with scratches on the emulsion side but since using fiberglass mesh screen as backing for my negs before inserting into the tubes I have had no scratches now for nearly 150 sheets of film. I have used FP4+. Efke PL100 is in my experience superior in every respect. It is very flexible - I have exposed and developed it from N+2 to N-8 (SBR 5 to 15). It has excellent reciprocity characteristics. I print only on AZO paper and I have found this film to build excellent general and local contrast without much corresponding increase in density. The new Grade 2 AZO has an extremely long tonal scale and Efke PL100 is the only 100 ASA film I know commercially available that can match that. I have never used Efke 25 and do not see the need to go that slow what with all the positive results I get from its faster brother.

6-Oct-2004, 11:33	#3
Francesco Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 32	Which 8x10 100 ISO ? John, I only use two films, Efke PL100 being one of them and also being my primary film. I use it with Pyrocat HD and develop in tubes using minimal agitation (see the AZO forum on more about this agitation procedure). In the beginning I was plagued with scratches on the emulsion side but since using fiberglass mesh screen as backing for my negs before inserting into the tubes I have had no scratches now for nearly 150 sheets of film. I have used FP4+. Efke PL100 is in my experience superior in every respect. It is very flexible - I have exposed and developed it from N+2 to N-8 (SBR 5 to 15). It has excellent reciprocity characteristics. I print only on AZO paper and I have found this film to build excellent general and local contrast without much corresponding increase in density. The new Grade 2 AZO has an extremely long tonal scale and Efke PL100 is the only 100 ASA film I know commercially available that can match that. I have never used Efke 25 and do not see the need to go that slow what with all the positive results I get from its faster brother. Francesco (www.cicoli.com)

6-Oct-2004, 11:34	#4
Francesco Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 32	Which 8x10 100 ISO ? Apologies for the double posting.

6-Oct-2004, 12:39	#5
Jim Galli Join Date: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,425	Which 8x10 100 ISO ? John, I'm an Efke 100pl convert. I've been getting some remarkable negatives with it. I've been buying the 100 foot roll for cirkut camera and cutting it up in 8" pieces for the 8X10 holders. I haven't experienced scratches even with the extra handling. Maybe I'm too dumb to see them. I like it so much I've got a freezer full of other stuff that may never get used. It's "look" seems better in every way to me than the fp4 clones (same as yours) I've been using before it. Also Pcat HD. __________________ He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949 http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com

6-Oct-2004, 15:37	#6
David Beal Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 51	Which 8x10 100 ISO ? John, I use homemade BTZS tubes and have had no problems with scratching PL100. However, it is a soft emulsion when wet (OK when dry). PL100 is NOT the same as Efke 50 or Efke 25; those films are quasi-orthochromatic, and are said to be better for portraiture than PL100, which is Efke's panchromatic low speed film. Good shooting. __________________ David Beal Memories Preserved Photography, LLC "Making tomorrow's memories by capturing today's happiness" (R)

6-Oct-2004, 16:16	#7
Jay DeFehr Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 917	Which 8x10 100 ISO ? Hi John. J&C Pro 100 is the only housebrand 8x10 film they carry, and it isn't Forte, it's the Chinese stuff. Haven't tried it myself, but I've been meaning to. You can get it for $1/sheet if you buy 1000 sheets! I wish they did carry the 100 speed Forte film, because I like it very much. Reminds me of Verichrome Pan. J&C classic 200 is also a good 100 speed film, if you want it to be.

7-Oct-2004, 00:54	#8
ramin Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 65	Which 8x10 100 ISO ? Ciao Francesco. Could you post the address of this Azo forum please. i couldnt find it in search. cheers

7-Oct-2004, 01:11	#9
Francesco Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 32	Which 8x10 100 ISO ? Ramin, here you go http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/startframe.html Francesco (www.cicoli.com)

7-Oct-2004, 02:42	#10
Dan Smith Join Date: Oct 1997 Posts: 1,227	Which 8x10 100 ISO ? If you are looking at any alt process work in the future forget TMax 100. It has some kind of UV light blocker in the base & will make platinum or any other process that is exposed by UV light nearly impossible. What was a very good film is not trash can material as a result. Yep, another "nothing has changed" result from The Yellow Godfather & his new coating facility. Maybe we are supposed to be happy that Tri-X doesn't have this base?

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