Good catch, I only looked at the first picture. There should be resistance if opening the iris then, and if pushing all the way to f/8 there is probably a serious problem if the aperture blades are not in the right position (forcing it to f/8 at that point despite the resistance and not opening). The aperture blades may already be damaged.
well, i mentioned this in my original post, seems no one reacted so far, but thanks, now its come up.
shall i try to push it back in, and if so, in which position of the aperture?
now that u mention it, the aperture lever moves well but less smooth than my other shutters. its, like i said, my only synchro compur..
thanks evrybody
That is an "aperture blade" and NOT a a "Shutter blade" and no that is not normal.
To your question should you "push it bake in" and I'll tell you to simply "push" a metal aperture blade back in position may lead to bending the aperture blade then you may not be able to reassemble the aperture properly but if your going to try to slip it back under the rim just be careful not to damage the aperture blade. You can also disassemble the iris rack and put the blade back in it's proper position you should be able to fix it . Once in the proper position your aperture scale stops should be accurate.
Last edited by Louis Pacilla; 8-Oct-2017 at 04:35.
hello louis.
the term shutter blade is also in use, easy..
it was no problem to push the blade back in position, gently, just using a screwdriver and a finger without dismantling it. this has not changed the opening of the aperture at f8, but i found a solution by dismantling and changing the aperture levers original setting. f8 is f11 now and f6 is f8, not showing the blades in this position. the whole lens opening is visible now.
problem solved.
Last edited by chris77; 8-Oct-2017 at 06:42.
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