okay. i am in. i just developed a couple of 120 rolls of HP5 with pyro hd 1:10. 4.5 min in both A and B.
the negs look great. i will print them today in the DR.
boy this is fun....!
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okay. one more thing. i can not find it even though i read it recently. how long will my 1:10 pyro hd solution keep for? how many rolls/sheets can i do and in what time frame?
thanks.
i just souped another batch of neopan 400 in the above dilutions. a bit more flat than the hp5. but i will print some later to see.
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how long will my 1:10 pyro hd solution keep for? how many rolls/sheets can i do and in what time frame?
On this Forum thread, , Sandy says this:
"Although I prefer to discard the used working solutions, it is possible to re-use them three or four times within a window of two or three hours. Don't try to save for another day, however."
(I got so confused with all the different postings, I had to make a collection of links for myself)
Eddie, If you fiind that your second batch of negs are too flat just try selenium toning. This will increase contrast/density linearly. You may be pleased with the results. Just tone with visual inspection and try not to overdo it... you can always tone more a second time.
Sinar P, 240mm APO-Nikkor
4x5 TMY, Divided D-23
I mixed up some Divided D-23, using the Thornton version. As others have pointed out, it's not a "real" divided formula, since development occurs in both baths. However, using an InfraRed monocular, you can monitor the progress in each bath, and perform Development By Inspection. Does this mean you get the best of both worlds: the compensation of Two-Bath, plus contrast control ?
Ed Buffalo suggests in this article, that "...you develop in solution A until your high values are almost where you want them, then you place the film in solution B and develop until the shadow values are where you want them."
To those with experience: is Ed's assessment correct ?
Last edited by Ken Lee; 24-Apr-2018 at 18:30.
Well, that is an very nice looking flower and leaves image.
I think Ed is essentially correct, but if you are going to develop by inspection I don't see what you have to gain with two-bath development, especially if you are developing to scan. I think you could get equivalent results with a plain one-bath solution.
Sandy
Last edited by Ken Lee; 23-Feb-2011 at 19:12.
You're probably right !
It's great to "expose for the shadows, and develop for the highlights", but it may be even more helpful (especially when the exposure is off) to be able to develop for both. (?)
I'll fiddle a bit and see. There are many situations - architecture, outdoor portraits, landscapes with clouds - where I have learned in the past to "just say no" and save the film for a more probable shot. I would like to be able to work with subjects of greater dynamic range, without having to make careful notes or give special handling. Being able to manage things during DBI, strikes me an attractive option.
well i played with some pyro hd as a two part developer. fun. i had roll film ready for processing so i hope it is okay to show the pics as we are talking about a developing technique.
hp5. pyro hd 1:10. 4.5 min per bath. regular shooting as i had not planned to change developers. direct sun.
the prints are freaking sharp! the 1st one is a straight print. the other i used a #3 filter to add contrast. ilford VC RC warmtone paper. ilford paper developer.
My YouTube Channel has many interesting videos on Soft Focus Lenses and Wood Cameras. Check it out.
My YouTube videos
oldstyleportraits.com
photo.net gallery
Interesting... please keep it up!! Have you tried the selenium toner yet to add contrast?
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