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Thread: Arrrrrghhh!! Ok, Developer recommendation?

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Ottawa, Canada
    Posts
    640

    Arrrrrghhh!! Ok, Developer recommendation?

    Ok, deep breaths.



    Film processing (B&W, 4x5) is slowly driving me nuts. It seems almost impossible to get a really good, practical comparison; so much anecdotal stuff, usually conflicting, so much information left out. I have all but abandoned a rational based-selection. I don't (actually won't) try a bunch of different films and develops; I just don't have the interest or attention span.



    I thought I had found it in TMAX/D-76. Nice grain, nice results, no real quirks, both easily available even at local sources, at least 2 different speeds available. I recently discovered (the hard way) the flaw in D-76: oxidization. I used some oldish stuff and the contrast was insane. Sigh.



    So I am looking (begging?) for recommendation. I don't want some special "look"; I found the look of T-MAX in D-76 (which I suppose could be called a boring look, nothing special) to be happy for me. It is only the oxidization of D-76 that kills me. So here are the requirements:

    <ul>
    <li>Shelf life. I do 6-12 sheets, then wait a while. I can't mix a large batch each time of something like D-76 since I will end-up throwing it out all the time.
    <li>Compatible with a Jobo, 2500 series tank (i.e. no insane dilutions of a liter of solution for 3 sheets of film) at 25 degrees or so (warm house much of the time), constant agitation
    <li> Reasonably easily available. I don't want something made only by midgets in Madagascar.
    <li> Easy to use. I don't mind precision, but I don't want to mix my own from 10 chemicals.
    <li> S-type curve....more or less. I guess straight is ok.
    <li> Happy to be scanned. This mostly just means reasonable contrast. No contact printing will be done....I don't care for 4x5 prints.
    <li> Not a speed killer. I could live with a little speed loss I suppose.
    <li> Regular to fine grained. Acutance is not so important as it tends to have to be tweaked a lot for scanned stuff anyway.
    </ul>



    Only a little list, right? OK, there is probably more, but I guess you can fill in your own gaps. Xtol looked good for a bit, but apparently only comes in 5l quantities. HC110 looks ok, except for that upswept curve which is in serious risk of giving way contrasty highlights in TMAX.



    On TMAX...I might be convinced to change, but I really want 2 films...one ultra-fine for those detail shots, one a little faster for portrait, etc. Hence why I like the TMAX 100/400 family. But if someone can convince me Tri-X/whatever will make my year, then I might be convinced.



    Thanks for reading and the therapy.

  2. #2

    Arrrrrghhh!! Ok, Developer recommendation?

    Here is my recommendation: Dump TMAX 100. Keep TMAX 400 and partner that with Efke PL100. Both developed in Pyrocat HD. I cannot think of anything more economical, easy to use, more forgiving and more flexible. Good luck!

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Posts
    195

    Arrrrrghhh!! Ok, Developer recommendation?

    T-Max RS developer is worth a look. Like many others, I use it diluted 1:9 straight from the stock bottle. Mix the "B" packet into the "A" bottle to get stock. Dilute that 1:9. I process it in a Jobo 2500 series tank either on a Jobo CPA-2 or on a Uniroller. At 75 degrees, my time for 100TMax (N) is 8.5-9 minutes.

    In my experience the stock solution keeps well over 6 months. As a test, I shot identical images and processed them split into two groups, one in older RS stock, one in brand new. negs looked and printed the same, and on my densitometer no differences existed. Hope this helps.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Greenbank, WA
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    2,605

    Arrrrrghhh!! Ok, Developer recommendation?

    Paul: If you like D76 and TMAX 100 (I do too) then stick with it. Order some glass bottles from Specialtybottle.com. They're cheap, and when you fill them to the top with stock D76 it will last a year without problems. I store Xtol this way and up to a year old it works like new. Tri-x and HC110 is a time-honored combination, it just depends if you like the look. You'll have to convince yourself with that or any other combination.

  5. #5

    Arrrrrghhh!! Ok, Developer recommendation?

    Greetings Paul,

    I'll second Francesco's recommendations, but will add a few additional comments. I sense a desire for the one size fits all paradigm. Most folks on this forum are trying to get the absolute most from their materials/process - I know I am. Pushing the envelope to achieve the maximum result usually only comes with careful testing and careful execution. There are many varibles and until each is controlled and understood you wont know what can happen.

    If you want a developer that has a truly long shelf life, then I would recommend Rodinal and I would use it at dilutions up to 1:150. Rodinal has a long history and as a stock solution lasts for years.

    For film, I would stay away from the newer T-grain/crafted emulsions, which are much more sensitive to variations and stick with films that have a little more "slop," or are little more forgiving in exposure/development. Films like FP4+, HP5+ and Tri-X; Efke PL100 would also fall into this category. The Tmax emulsions are very nice, particularly TMY, but they are very responsive to variations; change the development time one minute and the contrast index changes - not good if don't want to test.

    My personal favorites are Efke PL100, Kodak TMY and Ilford FP4+ all souped in PyrocatHD, but PyrocatHD stock solutions may only last 6 months to a year, which isn't a problem for me given all the film I develop. Good luck!

    Regards, Pete

  6. #6

    Join Date
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    Arrrrrghhh!! Ok, Developer recommendation?

    Urk, I may have mislead you a little on the testing....I am willing to nail down a development for a specific film/developer combo, just not willing to fool with different film/developers forever.

    Precision is not a problem. I can nail development to +- 0.2 degrees, +- 5 seconds no problem over and over. What I don't want to do is do it different; I am obviously not a zone person man

    I am happy getting 95% out of my process; they last 5% would be nice, but really -- for me -- I would rather be doing other things to improve my shots. This is my technique; I certainly understand others but I think I am lacking too much in other areas right now.

    Pyrocat intrigues me, but I think maybe the staining is a problem with scanning, not an improvement. It would seem to me that most of the advantages are lost in the digital darkroom (which is nonnegotiable). And having read a quite a bit about it, it still remains iffy in a Jobo....or am I reading too much old stuff? Or too much operator trouble? Pyrocat HD availability is iffy too. I don't know of any Canadian distributors, but maybe that is just me.

    TMAX-RS I have seen a lot of references to. It would seem simple enough to try. What is the gotcha? Everything has to have a downside...

    But will be keeping the simple glass bottles in mind...

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
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    1,794

    Arrrrrghhh!! Ok, Developer recommendation?

    Are you using the processor for the tanks? You could mix up D-23. It's only two chemicals. Both easy enough to find in Canada-) The formula I think wouldn't have too much of an issue with 25C. You'd just have to shorten your times. If you mix it up the day you process shelf life is basically forever. If you really like D-76 then how about making D-76H up to working strength same day? It's three chemicals.

    http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Developers/Formulas/formulas.html

    http://www.colba.net/~fotochem/

    He can likely fill all your chemical needs.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Ottawa, Canada
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    Arrrrrghhh!! Ok, Developer recommendation?

    Hmmm...that sounds almost combative. So I shall rephrase it as a question, since I am looking for your knowledge instead of attempting to illustrate the lack of my own.

    <ul>
    <li>How does pyrocat HD work out with scanning? Does the staining interfere with it?
    <li>Does pyrocat work ok in a Jobo? I have seen lots of reports of streaking, etc.
    <li>Is there a canadian distributor for pyrocat HD?
    <li>Assuming I am not contract printing, what is the advantage of pyrocat? The ultra-long neg doesn't seem so important if you are not doing alternative printing process, although I suppose scanning is alternative
    <li>What is the downside of TMAX-RS?
    </ul>

    To quantify one thing: 6 months shelf life is fine, so long as I don't have to mix more then 5 liters at a time.

  9. #9

    Arrrrrghhh!! Ok, Developer recommendation?

    Read Sandy Kings excellent article on Pyrocat HD at unblinkingeye.com. It is concise, comprehensive and complete on this subject.

    Cheers!

  10. #10

    Arrrrrghhh!! Ok, Developer recommendation?

    Paul, I regularly use ilford fp4+ with Rodinol at 1:50 dilution.

    Fp4+ offers outstanding results at a reasonable price. It is also great with pyro developers (unlike tmax100) if you want to go that route. HP5 400 or Tmax400 are excellent if you need extra speed.

    Rodinol is famous for is outstanding quality and looong shelf life(in concentrate form). I am like you.. I only get to develop sheet film occasionaly. Rodinol is also easy to use.. it comes in a liquid concentrate that you mix with water when you need it. Get a syringe to measure the ml.

    Use the 1:50 dilution and one little bottle will last you months.

    If you are using continuous agitation, dont forget to reduce the development time by 15-25%

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