Glass Negatives

[bruce501]

I am in possession of about 60 glass negatives circa 1890-1896.
Photos were taken in and around Austinburg Ohio by Rev R.G. McCelland. Rev. McCelland was the Principal of the Grand River Institute.
Question.....I have tried to scan the plates with no sucess and am preparing to contact print the better negatives. Any hints on how to do this as efficiently as possible.
Thank you and I certianly will share some of the images on this forum. Best, Bruce

[dwross]

Hi Bruce,

Scanning glass negatives is often a dismal failure. I don't even try that option first anymore. What works perfectly is to photograph them on a light table (or flat, even light source). Unless you know how to fuss with perceptive in Photoshop, the only real trick is to make sure the camera and plate are parallel to each other. Then, of course, you treat the image file like any other.

I've done this with all sorts of plates, with cameras from 8MP to 14, and can't see any differences between the smaller and bigger cameras. Cameras are actually better than a flatbed scan because there isn't anything like light bounce ruining things.

Good luck and great fun! What a treasure.
d

[bruce501]

Thanks Denise! I hadn't Thought of photographing the plates. Sure would save long hours in darkroom.
Thanks again!
Bruce

[jnantz]

hi bruce

i hate to ask this, but do you have, or are you able to get
some old outdated azo paper ? i have contact printed old plates
and printed old ortho / box camera film on azo with great results.
it is pretty easy .. and quick printing ( if the light box and d-cam are a pain ) ..

[bruce501]

Thanks for the help, I don't have a problem with resorting to printing, but I kind of like the photographing plates on light box idea. Best, Bruce

[David Lobato]

Using a digital SLR can work fairly well. I use to use an old 6MP DSLR to digitize 8x10 negatives on a light table. It is worth the extra time to make sure the negative surface and the camera back plane are parallel. Use a specialized macro lens of 50, 55, 100, 105mm because they normally have a flat field and minimal distortion. Use manual mode and adjust exposure so that the camera histogram includes the whole curve with some space on either side. Bracketing helps as well.

[ROL]

While I initially thought I would have to print them, I scanned these glass negatives straight from my Epson 4990 (as transparencies) without difficulty or further adjustment. I will probably eventually attempt to print one, but honestly the results seem more than adequate for the web.

[Vaughn]

I am printing a few glass 5x7 negs for a friend -- not the highest quality negs, but it is an interesting experience. I am just using some old photopaper...if the negs were of better quality, I would consider using some Azo that I have. It is nice not having to use a contact printing frame -- just laying the glass plate on top of the photopaper.

Just wondering here, probably a crazy idea -- how about scanning glass plate negs as 'prints' by placing a mirror on top of the neg while scanning?

Vaughn

[dwross]

I was on the run this morning and neglected to mention one more trick. You probably have already figured it out. Photograph the plate emulsion side up and then flip in PS.

Thin/underexposed plates usually scan well, but dense plates can be a real challenge.

Vaughn, what an intriguing idea!

d

[Winger]

The light box method sounds good.
I have printed glass negs as contacts in the darkroom, though. It was really pretty easy. I started with how I usually do contact sheets and just adjusted the times from there. I don't think it took much adjusting and I could usually pump out 3-5 prints from about 5 negs in 4 hours or so. I wasn't doing anything too fancy, but I did do some dodging and burning on a few. (there's guy near here who bought a bunch of glass negatives from 5x7 up to about 13x18 and wanted silver prints a couple of years ago)