Tray Development: Fix Filtering, Minimum Post-Development Processing

[Harlan Chapman]

Just getting my feet wet with tray development and looking for advice on a couple of points:
-Fixer is reused so it sees a lot of in/out of open trays. This leads me to worry about solid debris accumulating in the fixer solution and making its way onto my negatives. Is this a concern and, if so, how do you filter your fixer?
-When processing in a drum it is pretty easy to run a textbook multi-step post-developing sequence of two separate fixes, rinse, hypo clear, final wash. Doing all this by hand in trays gets old. I don't think my negatives need to last 100 years. It would be nice if they just made it through my expected photography lifespan of a couple more decades. So, after the first fix, how critical are these textbook extra steps compared to just doing a single fix followed by a long stay in an effective negative washer? I have no arguments wit the textbook sequence and am not trying to start a discussion of fixing/washing methods. Just pragmatic viewpoints on the practical minimum from the perspective of experienced negative shufflers.

[Gem Singer]

When re-using fixer, it's a good idea to pass it through a coffee filter while pouring it back into it's storage container.

Discard developer and stop bath after each use. developer oxidizes, and stop bath is inexpensive.

No need to use more than one tray of fixer for fixing film. The double fixing method, to which the text books are referring, is the ideal method for fixing prints.

Fix film for twice the clearing time. When the fixer begins to take a long time to clear film, discard it and use fresh fixer.

Fiber based paper absorbs fixer like a sponge and requires extra care to remove it in order to make the prints archival.

Film base does not absorb liquid, and the emulsion absorbs a minimum amount. No need to use HCA or long washing times for film.

[ROL]

So we are apparently only talking film here?

I pour used fix from my trays back into a partially filled brown bottle, unless I'm continuing to develop. By the time significant precipitates develop, I figure it's time to toss and mix fresh, though most likely not near exhausted.

Using rapid fixes is demonstrably archival (Doremus?). You don't need 2 fixes for normal film development, especially if you aren't concerned about ultimate overkill archival stability. Just wash well, 20 - 30 minutes.


P.S. What textbook advises 2 fixes for film development?

[Harlan Chapman]

Yes, this is on film. I should have been clearer about that.
Thank you for your thoughtful replies.

[Doremus Scudder]

So we are apparently only talking film here?

I pour used fix from my trays back into a partially filled brown bottle, unless I'm continuing to develop. By the time significant precipitates develop, I figure it's time to toss and mix fresh, though most likely not near exhausted.

Using rapid fixes is demonstrably archival (Doremus?). You don't need 2 fixes for normal film development, especially if you aren't concerned about ultimate overkill archival stability. Just wash well, 20 - 30 minutes.

P.S. What textbook advises 2 fixes for film development?

Well, since I've been conjured...

Here's my method for tray processing and re-using chemicals.
I use a staining developer one-shot, so no saving of the developer
Stop: when using conventional acetic acid stop (Kodak indicator stop), I mix about 600mm (the volume I like for my deep 5x7 trays) and reuse it till the indicator just starts to change color. This could be for many batches over several months. Lately, I've been using a citric acid stop, which likes to grow bacterial/fungus sludge if kept too long. This I mix at half strength and use one-shot unless I know I'm going to develop more film within a couple of days.

Fix: (here we go ROL...). Check out Michael Gudzinowicz' article at http://www.freelists.org/post/pure-s...-Gudzinowicz,3
Reading that and discussing things on forums with the experts at APUG convinced me to switch to 2-bath fixing for most of my film as well as for my fiber-base paper.

I have developed a rather complex way to use fixer one-shot based on the number of negatives I have to process. In a nutshell, if I have large batches, I use conventional 2-bath fixing with a "film-strength" rapid fixer. I use a clip test to determine fixing time and the exhaustion of bath one. I fix for 2x clearing time in each bath (overkill I know, but film suffers none from a bit of overfixing and this gives me a cushion for fixer exhaustion during fixing.) When the clearing time of bath one reaches 2x clearing time in fresh fix, I toss bath one and replace it with bath 2 and mix a fresh bath 2. For fewer negatives I do the same, but with a higher dilution (Hypam 1+9 instead of 1+4). Again, I use the clip test to determine both fixing time and the exhaustion of bath 1. Note that clearing times, and hence fixing times, will be appropriately longer. I never keep film fix anymore, even if I toss a rather fresh second bath.

For smaller batches of film I use fixer one shot, either at 1+3 or 1+9 depending on the number of negatives I am developing. My capacity guidelines are as follows for 4x5 sheeet film and Ilford Hypam or Rapid Fix: (Note: this is a table I just pasted- I've tried to use hyphens to supply the missing formatting :

Approx. Batch Size-----Amount of Stock ---------4x5 Sheets fixed*-----------Dilution and method
-------------------------------------------------------Conv. / T-Max -----------------------------
36+ sheets----------------200ml-------------------------36 / 26------------------1+4 to make 1 liter / 2-bath method, 500ml/bath
18-35 sheets--------------100ml-------------------------18 / 13------------------1+9 to make 1 liter / 2-bath method, 500ml/bath†
9 / 6 sheets (conv/Tmax)----50m---------------------------9 / 6------------------1+9 to make 500ml / single bath method†
4 / 3 sheets (conv/Tmax)-------25ml------------------------4 / 3-----------------1+19 to make 500ml / single bath method†

† Make sure to do clip tests before each batch to determine minimum fixing time (3x clearing time) and make sure to discard the fix when the clearing time doubles from that in fresh fix.

*Note also that batch size depends on type of film being fixed, conventional or Tmax/Delta type.

As for two-bath fixing film being a pain... Well heck, I'm only spending 4-6 minutes doing both, only another couple minutes over single bath...

Note that I don't use HCA since I use staining developers and the sulfite in staining developers removes pyro stain. I wash for 30 min minimum.

Hope this helps,

Doremus