4x5 for fashion. Do I stick with my rail camera or try one of the wide rangefinders

[David A. Goldfarb]

The wide cameras are mainly designed for architectural work with wider lenses than you are using--tall buildiings where you can't move back far enough and cramped interiors, where the only movements you really need are rise/fall and shift, and the bellows is likely to restrict movements with a conventional view camera (of course some cameras do this better than others and have more bag bellows options, etc). They are small enough to handhold, but they don't in general have rangefinder focusing. You haven't said how long your studio is or how wide the set is, so it's hard to say how wide a lens you'll be using, but figuring you'll be in the 90-120mm range, I don't see why you can't just use a regular 4x5" view camera. You don't need infinity focus in the studio with a lens in that focal range. In the studio with models in what sounds like a fairly controlled situation, I don't see a reason to shoot handheld, and the wide cameras depend on groundglass or zone focusing, so handheld with a non-rangefinder camera isn't precise or practical enough, if you're printing really big.

On 4x5" you'll probably want to be around f:22-32, so it makes sense to use strobes with models. It's possible to do it with 8x10"--after all it used to be standard to shoot furniture catalogues on 11x14" in studios designed for the purpose--but it will take a lot more light to be around f:45-64, and don't forget that bellows factor increases with the larger format, so you will need 3-4 stops more light to shoot 8x10".

[SergeiR]

Yes, I have an instant film back for the camera. I TA a 4x5 class and we go through tons of instant film. As I said, I'm pretty comfortable shooting standard portraits on LF, but I haven't done these kind of wide, large scale shoots using one (think Annie Liebovits for Vanity Fair, that's the kind of scale).

she doesn't use LF. So - why?

[Noah A]

The wide cameras are nice for some things but they're mostly limited in terms of movements. I'd use a sturdy monorail for this project, without a doubt.

If you're talking about a room set you'll likely be looking at a 120/135/150mm lens. You'll need lots of light if you want any depth of field at all, but you already know that.

If you're going to this much trouble, the expense of shooting 8x10 might not really matter, so that would be amazing. But if you shoot 4x5 you'll likely get the quality you want and you'll be using gear you're familiar with.

For your test shots, why not try some with transparency film that you're used to and some with Portra 160, which is incredibly fine-grained and has great skin tones, albeit with a lower overall saturation. Negs may be harder to scan, but if done properly and in collaboration with you (the photographer) they can look amazing. You might try a talented independent scanner operator like Lenny Eiger (who is active here) rather than a big lab where they just pump out the scans.

Have fun and I hope you'll post some results!

[Rod Klukas]

Arca-Swiss has a really versatile 4x5 called the RL3d. It has rise, fall, shift, and tilt. The focus is super accurate with or without the ground glass, and it can be hand held. The focus distance can be set from quite close to infinity with provided focus cards. It has medium format little brother as well that operates the same way. http://vimeo.com/24366528
By the way, the new 160 Portra and the Ektar100 scan beautifully. They were designed for scanning. They are now much better for scanning than any currently available transparancy film.

[Jay DeFehr]

While I don't know exactly what you're planning, my instinct would be to go with a monorail camera, in 8x10, if I could afford it. For me, a controlled, studio environment cries out for a precision studio camera. I try to weigh the difficulties of shooting against the demands of printing. Using MF would definitely be more convenient in shooting, but not, in my opinion, to the degree that printing MF to your requirements would be demanding. I think the balance favors LF, since you're an experienced LF shooter.
I envy you the opportunity to plan such a shoot, and wish you all success!

[cosmicexplosion]

i reckon get an 8x10 and a 360mm

my kodak 2d $600
dagor goerz 360mm $600

great for portraits, in fact its the only set up i seem to use.

the 8x10 will always be better for large prints.

and portraits are pretty simple, its very similar to the 4x5, and as a pro you could prob be comfortable in 5 minutes.

you could hire a set up or borrow one, and reel off a few shots, take notes and then make up your mind.

8x10 sheets are a little harder to load than 4x5, but thats what your assistant is for!

i really enjoy looking through an 810 'window'

[mcherry]

Arca-Swiss has a really versatile 4x5 called the RL3d. It has rise, fall, shift, and tilt. The focus is super accurate with or without the ground glass, and it can be hand held. The focus distance can be set from quite close to infinity with provided focus cards. It has medium format little brother as well that operates the same way. http://vimeo.com/24366528
By the way, the new 160 Portra and the Ektar100 scan beautifully. They were designed for scanning. They are now much better for scanning than any currently available transparancy film.

That's a hell of a system. I picked up some Portra 100 and Ektar 100 as well as Provia to test. Thanks for the advice.

[Rod Klukas]

That's a hell of a system. I picked up some Portra 100 and Ektar 100 as well as Provia to test. Thanks for the advice.

Also, on the RL3d, you can shoot film and can add a digital back later as well.
Rod

[Jay DeFehr]

Arca-Swiss has a really versatile 4x5 called the RL3d. It has rise, fall, shift, and tilt. The focus is super accurate with or without the ground glass, and it can be hand held. The focus distance can be set from quite close to infinity with provided focus cards. It has medium format little brother as well that operates the same way. http://vimeo.com/24366528
By the way, the new 160 Portra and the Ektar100 scan beautifully. They were designed for scanning. They are now much better for scanning than any currently available transparancy film.

Great video, Rod, and a fantastic camera system!