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Thread: T and B settings

  1. #1

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    T and B settings

    Good day all. New to the forum and large format photography....

    I've been shooting with my newly acquired RB67, and now have moved to a Speed Graphic as a starter for my LF experience.

    I noticed yesterday, that I can't get the shutter to close on T or B settings on the lens, while using the cable release. The only way it will shut, is if I manually turn the shutter speed dial to 1, then I hear it closing.

    I've also noticed that while turning the shutter speed dial, it kind of gets tighter for the lack of a better term, the more I get closer to the fastest setting, as in 400th I believe it is.

    Not sure how long the camera has set, before getting in my hands. I bought it off Ebay from someone else. Someone else mentioned that I might try to get an older shutter release cable. This was one of his comments.....

    The cable release has too long a shaft inserting into the shutter. Often, the old lenses used a shallow draft for the cable release. Look for a shorter shaft cable release. The old cloth bound cable releases are example of what you would need.

    Second, look careful at your opening on the shutter, it may be designed to have NON-TAPERED thred cable releases. In the old days these types of cable release were common and their draft was quite shallow.


    Any thoughts on my B & T situation?

    TIA
    Last edited by Pfiltz; 28-Jun-2012 at 04:36. Reason: adding

  2. #2

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    Re: T and B settings

    Does it work without the cable release?
    The "getting tighter" thing is quite normal for some shutters. What shutter is it?

  3. #3

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    Re: T and B settings

    Quote Originally Posted by sumo View Post
    Does it work without the cable release?
    The "getting tighter" thing is quite normal for some shutters. What shutter is it?
    Not too sure how to make T and B work without a cable release, but it does work in all other shutter speeds without the cable.

    The lens has these markings on the inside ring Kodak Ektar ER4977 f:4.7 127mm

  4. #4
    George Sheils
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    Re: T and B settings

    Mmmmm....a CLA is probably required.

    Clean, Lube and Adjust by a qualified technician.

  5. #5
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    Re: T and B settings

    Quote Originally Posted by George E. Sheils View Post
    Mmmmm....a CLA is probably required.

    Clean, Lube and Adjust by a qualified technician.
    Agreed. This is nearly always a problem of the shutter sticking while open. None of my lenses with Graphex shutters (or any other shutters, for that matter) will stick in B because the cable release extends too far. Every shutter I've ever seen on the inside has a mechanical stop beyond which the cable release can't extend in any case.

    Note that the B, T, slows speeds, and fast speeds often use different means to control the timing of shutter operation, so the fact that it does not stick on 1 second doesn't mean it can't be sticking on B.

    Don't change the shutter speed while the shutter is open. This can do more harm than good.

    Rick "ask me how I know" Denney

  6. #6

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    Re: T and B settings

    Appreciate it folks... Will probably not need those T n B settings, but I was more confused as to why it wasn't working. I'm probably going to get a stronger lens anyway in the future, if some of my test shots come out decent. I've only shot 2 pieces of film so far with it And that was last night...

    When I do get a stronger lens, I'll make sure those options work, because I would like to possibly shoot some water falls in the fall.

  7. #7
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    Re: T and B settings

    The between-the-lens shutters most common on Speed Graphics increase main spring tension when going from 1/200 to 1/400, so an increase in resistance when changing speeds is inevitable. Most lenses on post-WWII Speed Graphics use the tapered cable release socket, including your 1945 vintage lens. Earlier American cameras and shutters often used a relase with straight 5-44 threads.

  8. #8

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    Re: T and B settings

    Different shutters have different ways of operating them. For example a "press" shutter is one where you don't need to cock it as a separate step. Some older ones don't need to be cocked when using the T and B settings and can actually damage them if you cock them. Usually though you cock the lens with the speed set (either B or T) and press the shutter release lever. For B, it will stay open as long as you keep it pressed and close when you let go. On T it will open when you press-and-release and close on a second activation of the release lever. For a press type shutter, the operation should be the same except you don't need to cock.
    An Ektar is a relatively old lens but not super old. Your lens is from 1945. What does the body of the shutter say? That would help in getting some more specific operation instructions.
    B and T might not seem very important now but if you are shooting waterfalls you will definitely want either one of them for long exposures or you will be snapping a load of 1 sec exposures. In large format you usually stop down a bit more to get more DOF and shutter speeds end up being longer than on MF. 1 sec and longer exposures are not uncommon in LF, although it depends on what kind of photography you want to do.

  9. #9

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    Re: T and B settings

    Unfortunately, the sticker for the model has been gone a long time. There is no Model Number Plate attached to the camera that I can find. Later today, when I get to the shop, I'll take a closeup of the front of the camera i.e. Lens, and will post a link so you good folks can see what I have.

    I did list some info from the lens that I found, up above.

    Here is all the info that I can find on the lens.

    Kodak Ektar ER4977 f:4.7 127mm
    Made by Wollensak Rochester, USA for the Folmer Graphlex Corp.
    Shutter speeds 400 through T
    The lens board has a plate on it, stamped "Speed Graphic"


    BTW, if I chose to get this thing cleaned and lub'd, where would you suggest I send it? Is it an expensive process as well? I'm kind of a nervous wreck when working with the lens. I've never had to mess with this stuff before. My RB67 was my first film camera, and I've only had it for 6 months. Now I have this guy....

    All very new to me.

  10. #10

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    Re: T and B settings

    Its not a particularly rare lens or valuable etc so its easily replaceable. LF lenses are quite different to other modern smaller format lenses but they are quite simple in operation. As long as you don't force anything you can't really do much damage.

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