Mechanical shutters may be accurate at some speeds but not all. When did the shutter last receive a CLA?
Mechanical shutters may be accurate at some speeds but not all. When did the shutter last receive a CLA?
Also mechanical shutters get slow sitting around. Did you "warm" up the shutter by firing it a few times before you took the shot?
You may have a mechanical problem with your shutter.
I'm sorry. After re-reading I see where I missed the part where the shutter is accurate and near new.
Thank you guys for all of your suggestions!
I did several shots there with instant film, because the very first picture was supprisingly overexposed. I only changed the f-stop from 16 to 22 1/3 but the results were similar. So the shutter is not to blame. UV-filter is an option and I´ll try to get one in a fitting diameter. The conclusio is to get out there and burn more film to find out the reason for this phenomena. It´s not the cheapes way though. In the meantime I remain to be a little idiot.
George
George... Lighten up on yourself. I can beat myself up enough for the both of us... and I'm used to it so I can't hurt my own feelings. I have enough courage and self-confidence to tell myself to STFU without insulting myself. I recommend you learn to do the same. But do it with your silent inner voice so other folks don't look at you funny.
George, Old-N-Feeble is right. Don't fret it.
The only people who don't make mistakes are the ones who don't do anything!
Hallo Guys! I´m not depressed at all I´m only fed up a little bit because I can not understand it and why. Today it wasn´t the weather fro a re-shoot, too much wind and dark clouds at the lake.
George
O.K. I´ve tested my lens and my shutter. Nothing wrong with them as you can see in the attatched pictures. Please forgive the load of dust, my crappy all-in-one scanner is full of it (inside). Shots on 3x4 Fuji instant with 4x5 back a Nikkor 300 W lens at 1/2 sec. and f 22 (window light at home).
George
You haven't said where you placed your reading.
My meter tells me that EV15 clouds should get 1/60 at f/22 (ISO100), to be placed on Zone V. My experience with Fujiroid is that two stops brighter will be blown out, and two stops darker will be getting rather muddy. So, exposing those EV15 clouds on 1/30 at f/22 probably had the intention of placing them on Zone VI, but in fact placed them on Zone VIII or IX, just because of the contrast of that material.
And what part of the clouds? The brightly lit parts, or the shadowed parts of their undersides? If the latter, I might want those exposed a bit less than Zone V if I wanted any separation at all of the brighter bits. That might easily require two stops less exposure than what you gave it.
Also, at the ends of the range, the separation shrings, because of the S shape of the characteristic curve. I have never measured that for Fujiroid, but it's there. The haze would minimize the differences in tonal values, and to preserve those differences, one might need to bring them down to the Zone IV-V range where the curve is steepest.
In the end, I think it comes down to where you decided to place the reading you took on the tonal scale, not to the accuracy of what you measured.
Rick "for whom Fujiroid is a reasonable model for general exposure checking purposes for Velvia" Denney
Dear Rick,
I placed my meter reading at the brightest spot in the scenery first - the disappeared white clouds. Then I metered on the opposite shoreline and checked the contrast. It was O.K. because I´ve got the same value for the opposite shore as with the metering of the white clouds would give to this part.
I have tried some messing with Lightroom but the only channel which changed the result was the blue one. I turned off the luminance of blue and the whole picture became underexposed. But the white clouds remained not visible at all.
Please note, that I´m not using the real Zone System. I only measure the brightest, the middle and the darkest part of a scenery, like I did with the two b/w shots above. Most of the shots came out very good in the coulor pictures too. Maybe you are right with the gradation curve (sorry, I have no other word for it) of the Fuji instant film. Is there a possibility that my Pentax digital spotmeter has a very small sensitivity for blue?
Well, I`ll now the thruth next week when I get the film back from the lab. I´ve done some other landscapes last week and all the Fujiroid proofs came out quite right, means the meter works, the shutter works properly too. I don´t want to bother you all with these shots here.
Thank you for your help!
George
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