7 x 17 korona

[phil sweeney]

I had to solve a lot of problems with this camera. I had to sand parts of the rear standard as some of the joined surfaces were not even due to age or poor original construction. That took care of one light leak. I also had to make a little flap out of black photo tape to prevent light leaking under the film holder on the narrow side. Its a shame the original design did not have a backstop. My final problem: the rear standard has no way to be locked and when inserting the film holder a great deal of care and physical gyration is necessary to not move the rear standard. It will move quite easily, without the knobs. I am thinking about using a small c-clamp and glueing felt or leather on the clamping surfaces so I will not mar any of the wood surfaces. I am curious any experience or workarounds others have devised? The camera is in unbelievably good looking condition. Being in such good visual condition would the camera be of more value as an antique?

[jerry brodkey]

AWB sells a wind stabilization kit that was designed for Canham ULF cameras. It's small and light weight and may be an answer for your problem.

[Mark_3632]

Did the camera ever have a way to lock the rear standard? My 2D 5x7 was missing the lock knob and I was able to find one on a parts camera. If there was never a lock on it, that sounds weird. I do not think you will be able to get the C clamp-felt combination tight enough if you are worried about the finish. There is actually a lot of twisting force generated when inserting a film holder. Try rubber it does not mar either. At least it never has when I was gluing something together and clamped it with a Quick Grip. You might be able to find a Quick Grip rubber end piece some where. The link shows what I am talking about. You will not need to clamp down so hard because the rubber produces more friction with less pressure. I'm also not a big fan of the lasting power of felt either I had some glued on a pony clamp. it just did not last very long ,got nappy, and for lack of a better word it shed. Then again you application is much different than gluing a table back together, I would still look for rubber to cover the C-clamp.

If there is a place to put a knob try micro tool or your favorite hardware storde. Maybe you could find something to use.

I have heard of cameras that have a lever to open the back and this would probably help all cameras. I have just never seen one in person in order to design my own. My Busch Pressman needs one. That is one really tight back.

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/tylertool/woodclam.html

[phil sweeney]

Mark, the camera never had a lock. I found a squeeze-type clamp today that will do the job. Its just another thing to carry, but I have no choice.

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

Are you missing only the knob or is the camera missing the entire rod with the two cog wheels? If you are missing the rod, then you are SOL. I would suggest putting a piece of wood on each side and screwing them to the standard and the swing piece of wood. You will not have back tilt but at leats it will be steady. OTOH if all you are missing is the knob, why not just go to Home depot or some such place and look for butterfly knobs? One of them is bound to fit the thread of the rod. Get a locking washer and a butterfly knob and you are good to go....good luck.

[Mark_3632]

Nothing to hold the rear standard?! Wow considering the force needed to put a film holder in the back of a camera this is most logical place for a lock and a darn good one.

I just looked a picture of a korona 7x17 and the design of the rear standard looks a lot like my 2D. only much longer. I'll have to go home and look at my camera. If I remember correctly there are two knobs. One to advance and the other to tighten, on the same axle. The tightening knob was missing on mine. On the front focus the tighteing knob was frozen inplace so the stnadard did not lock down, I had to replace the whole axle. If you have two knobs acting like focusing knobs chances are one is the tightening knob and it is stuck. Lugging that mammoth around is enough and the clamp is one more thing to forget or lose.

Hope this helps

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

Nothing to hold the rear standard?! Wow considering the force needed to put a film holder in the back of a camera this is most logical place for a lock and a darn good one

Yes it has two knobs, one on the left hand to tilt the standard, and the other on the right to tighten the standard. The mechanism to tilt is via two cog wheels that are beneath the standard and are connected by a rod. Now if you are talking about the rear focusing and tightening knobs these are two different knobs placed underneath the standard on the focusing bed and you need a knob that will lock with a screw if you want to replace it. I have been using A 12X20 Korona for a few years and was only trying to help you, so I can do without the sarcasm. But as they say, no good deed goes unpunished, I wish you luck with your camera and your film testing.....

[Scott Wheeler]

You could always have a bail installed. My korona 7x17 has one made by Richard Ritter. It's a simple lever setup that makes it so that there is no pressure while sliding the film holder in. There is a description on Richard's website www.lg4mat.net. It might be worth checking out if you're willing to spend a little more $ to solve the problem.

[Mark_3632]

Jorge

I think there has been a bit of miscommunication. I was responding with surprise to Phil's statement. You have been quite helpful in all of your posts I do not think I have ever said other wise. Sorry to ruffle feathers I guess I should have written phil's name on top of the post.

Scott

Mr. Ritter's site is neat. And he has some nice pictures too.

[phil sweeney]

Jorge, I'll have to take a closer look tomorrow, but after some pretty close inspections it looked like both the knobs were fixed. I saw the one knob was pinned to the shaft. Since I did not see any threads on the rod I never considered one of the knobs might be bound up.