...do you have one?
...do you have one?
I steal time at 1/125th of a second, so I don't consider my photography to be Fine Art as much as it is petty larceny.
I've used 1:50 in most cases for fine-grain film. Good results for over 50 years.
- Leigh
“Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.” - Plato
Thaanks!
I've used Rodinal exactly once, years ago on MF (Verichrome Pan & Agfa something or other) I recently found an unopened bottle while going through my chemicals and I thoguht I
I'd see how does with Fomapan.
I steal time at 1/125th of a second, so I don't consider my photography to be Fine Art as much as it is petty larceny.
- Q. ?
What size film are you using ? A very sharp developer , I never use it for 35mm , only for 120 and 4X5 sheet films, always diluted to 1+50 0r 1 + 100 . It is not really a ' fine grain' developer , more like a ' sharp ' developer, my negs always print well from Rodinal.
Suggest you do some reasearch / or testing first to fine-tune your methods to this developer.
..........Cheers Barrie B.. Rodinal user for over 50 years .
Like Barrie said, Rodinal isn't a fine grain develop as such. The grain becomes more pronounced with too much agitation. Slow down and agitate gently about every 3 minutes. 1:100 will extend the developing time to allow for the reduced agitation scheme. Or you could eliminate agitation almost entirely and let the film sit in Rodinal for an hour or more. Sounds crazy but it works. The Rangefinder Forum has a thread on Rodinal and 1:100 (or more dilute) and stand development. Experiment. Good luck.
Wayne
Wayne
Deep in the darkest heart of the East Texas rainforest.
Wayne's Blog
FlickrMyBookFaceTwitSpace
i did 1:100 with agitation for 18 minutes in jobo .. looks fairly decent. Presoaked for 5m. Still not sure i like it more than my traditional UFG.
You won't get fine grain with Rodinal no matter the dilution. Adding Sodium Ascorbate will help a bit. Sharp edged, not fine grain is what you get with this developer.
Some time ago, I was using Rodinal often and wanted an objective look at its supposed grain enhancing properties. I normally used it 1:50 with gentle agitation at 1M, in trays. Identically exposed Tri-x 4x5 negatives were developed in D76 1:1, HC110 "B" and Rodinal. I printed small areas of what would have been 20X24 prints, larger than I can make until I build my new sink. The differences upon very close examination were slight, the grain did look a bit "sharper" (but not by much) but overall the Rodinal print was not what most people would consider "granier." At any reasonable viewing distance you couldn't see the difference.
I know this goes contrary to Rodinal folklore, and it was not at all the result that I expected. I'm just saying if you like Rodinal for other reasons, you might take a little time to experiment with faster LF films.
This is pretty much in keeping with what I have found. I keep both Rodinal and HC-110 in stock. I dilute both of them out of the bottle 1:50. I have found that subjects with a lot of highlight detail in the upper zones are better suited with Rodinal and images with a lot of deep shadow detail work better with HC-110. Interestingly, I got the same film speed with both developers at that dilution, using .1 over base fog as a guide (which might not be accurate...but it's been working fairly well for me.) I don't find either developer to be "fine grain", but then neither are the solvent developers. Acutance is good with both. Neither exhibit that soft "mushy" characteristic I always abhorred from developers such as Microdol and D-76.
If you are not talking about thin emulsion-high resolution films, you can't get there from here, Rodinal is a course grain, sharp grain developer designed for the above films.
Lynn
Bookmarks