4x5 Sinar f2 to 8x10, what is needed?

[Jay DeFehr]

Great thread. I'll be referencing this when I get my kit.

[adam satushek]

Yeah exactly Frank, I am continually surprised to find out how many Sinar parts are not really interchangeable, still very pleased with the system thus far, but not as interchangeable as I thought.

[adam satushek]

I guess my main question is would getting a 8x10 P2 special front standard be a workable solution to my lack of 8x10 F2 special front? I ask because it seems easier to find the 8x10 P2 front than the 8x10 F2 front. Has anyone shot like this? Its like a backwards C2, maybe a -C2. It seem like it should work....just cant seem to find any reference to anyone doing this.

Thanks!
Adam

[rdenney]

I guess my main question is would getting a 8x10 P2 special front standard be a workable solution to my lack of 8x10 F2 special front?

Yes, that will work. It might look a little funny.

The C, which was an F "multipurpose standard" front plus a P rear, seemed backwards to me. I always seem to want the finer control on the front standard than on the rear. Thus, a P "special" front (which has a taller rise) plus an F 8x10 rear seems to me quite reasonable. It certainly won't suffer from the rigidity problems that might be an issue with an F front with 10mm rods at full rise.

Note that all the 4x5 F stuff will still be useable on the 8x10, as holders for compendium shades, joints for adding a 4x5 standard bellows to the front of an 8x10 bellows, and so on.

Rick "who built his F2 from parts not too expensively, but very patiently" Denney

[Frank Petronio]

But those lenshade hex rod brackets changed angles between the Norma and the F/P-era. Try finding (or pricing of) the older ones ;-p And if you miss the hex rod, a #2 wooden pencil will suffice.

[Drew Wiley]

To get the hex shade rod to fit the Norma I simply filed an extra flat on the end fitting the
Norma rod clamp.

[adam satushek]

Awesome! Thanks Rick, that's what I wanted to hear! I agree that it may look funny, but it seems like good compromise between the 2 systems for me. Lighter than a full on P2, but more rigid than an F2 (especially with my 4x5 front). And i like the idea of geared and self locking controls on the front, seems like it will be easier to manipulate from under the dark cloth (especially with th 450mm) then the 2 handed method required for the F2 front.


....on the upside...i guess I now have a 4x5 F2, just take the multipurpose front of my F1 and replace with the F2 front! Though I have noticed that the zero detents for rise/fall don't line up with these 2 standards....and my F2 front seems to have slightly longer risers....though Ill have to confirm that when i get home....

[adam satushek]

Drew Wiley: "The early style C had a P rear with overlength rods on a 4x5 front end"

Hmmm, maybe this is what my F2 front standard is..... is there any way to look a the part and figure this out? Like is the catalog number like 431.61 listed anywhere on the actual part? I sure cannot find it....

[rdenney]

Though I have noticed that the zero detents for rise/fall don't line up with these 2 standards....and my F2 front seems to have slightly longer risers....though Ill have to confirm that when i get home....

Correct in both cases. But I think the second detents line up. I found a pair that lined up, anyway, when using an F2 front with an F rear. But then an F2 rear came my way; problem solved. The detent followers (a spring-loaded ball bearing in a threaded tube) in the F2 front were worn out, though. I installed the best of them from my F standards and problem solved. My F standards were already pretty worn in other ways though they still worked fine.

Rick "not in love with the detent design for the rise rods on F's" Denney

[Jay DeFehr]

I just received my 4x5 meter back, and I don't see anything that might make it a meter back as opposed to a non-meter back. I assumed there would be a slot for the probe. How can I identify my back as either meter or non-meter?