Making a Ruled Ground Glass

[jantman]

I have a question for whomever has an idea. I'm making a new GG for my Cambo 8x10. I read the article in May/June 2003 Photo Techniques, and ordered 5 and 3 micron aluminum oxide from Willmann-Bell. I'll get normal float window glass from a local glass store.

However, I'd also like to make a ruled GG. Any ideas? I'd rather not have to draw every line on by hand. Can anyone think of an easier way? Maybe some sort of printed overlay to somehow stick to it? Is there any "real" way to do it?

Thanks.

PS - I ordered a pound of each grit (a "lifetime supply") so if anyone else wants a GG, just ask me and I'll figure a good price.

[David A. Goldfarb]

How many lines do you need? I've just penciled them in using a metal ruler, one inch wide, and a T-square, so looking horizontally, I have three lines one inch apart on the left and right sides, two on the top and bottom, a small "+" in the center surrounded by an open area. If you have a T-square that's a convenient width, you can use it without a ruler.

[Colin Carron]

Jason, you may get answers more to your liking than this but I drew a grid on my ground glass with a sharp pencil. Mistakes can be removed with a soft rubber. As I use roll film holders the grid was mostly to show the 6x7 and 6x9 frame sizes. I find a complete grid distracting.

[Conrad Hoffman]

You can draw up an overlay in CAD or other drawing programs, then print it on clear transparancy material. Makes experimenting with different spacings easy. OTOH, nothing's as nice as delicate lines ruled on the ground surface itself, if done well.

[jantman]

Thanks for the speedy replies. I guess I'll give both methods a try. The pencil is what I've heard most often, but I was thinking of a full ruled grid like the glasses that they sell. I guess, on second thought, I don't really need that much.

I'll probably also put center marks and format marks. Probably just colored dots for smaller formats. I'll try a few different approaches on different glasses. For the transparency stuff, I can get some from school. They still use that archaic stuff. I'll probably cut it to size and just lay it over the glass, maybe use a little glue. If I can get it to stay on its own, that probably makes the most sense, because I could use one glass and just interchange the overlays.

Thanks, everyone.

[matthew blais]

I would think that clear "static cling" film (like what they put in your windshield after oil change) would work great. I would try a Promotional Items Distributor (check under promo items/advertising in the Yel.pgs. & ask for a sample), i.e.or major paper/label/sign supply company. What i don't know is if it will take ink from either graphic pen or inkjet but assume not pencil. Since they imprint these for end user, should take some type ink.

But they cling without glue or tape to glass very well and you could have several for backups...just my thought. Good luck.

[David R Munson]

Initially, I would suggest just making an overlay using sheet acetate and a technical pen. That way you can experiment with different grid sizes, and if you don't mind having the overlay there in use, you don't necessarily ever have to do anything more than that. Or, if you decide that you don't like having a grid after all, just take the overlay off and forget about it. I've put grids on a couple ground glasses using a steel rule and india ink in a *very* fine Rapidograph. Works well, though you have to be careful not to make any smudges.

[evan clarke]

HI, Use a carbide or diamond tipped scribe, it will cut into the glass itself. Don't make a mistake, though!! 8))

[Dave Mueller]

HI Jason,

1) I'll take you up on your offer for some grit!

2) The local craft store has paint for glass that you cure in the oven. My idea was to print the grid you want on normal paper, and lay the gg on top (ground side up). I was thinking of using thin thread or dental floss and dipping the thread in a puddle of paint, and then gently stretching it across the glass, using the pattern as a guide. Unfortunately, this limits you to straight lines with an easy pattern.

3) There is a technique for making printed circuit boards using a laser printer or copier. Instead of paper you use mylar (or one of the expensive plastic sheets made for this). Put the mylar image side down onto the board (or gg), and use a household iron to transfer the image. It's pretty tough once transferred, I think it should be OK considering the amount of abuse a gg should NOT be seeing :-) I've made a few circuit boards this way, it takes some practice but you can get really nice artwork this way, certainly good enough for a grid on a gg.

[jantman]

I'm sorry if there was a misunderstanding, but I said if anyone wants a GG, as in a finished glass. However, if the grit is what everybody's interested in, once I'm done with my six sheets, I'll see what I have left and consider reselling it.

The mylar idea sounds good, I could probably just put it between two sheets of old mat board and stick it in my dry mount press. If I can find some mylar, I'll try it.

I ordered the grit yesterday, it should probably be here next week or so. My local glass cutter usually has an overnight turnover, but I figure my order will be done in the next two days. So, if it's all here next week, that weekend I'll start grinding the glass and tell you guys how it worked out.

Thanks for all the advice. I think that an overlay or transfer will be the way to go.

PS - Dave, do you know where I could get sheets of mylar?