One man's Mede is another man's Persian.
Last edited by Tony Karnezis; 17-Apr-2012 at 18:18. Reason: reinvented the wheel, giving credit
Thank you both and Tony , yes that could be an Idea , i will try that hope not getting a decrease in Image quality
I will post a WTB in the section perhaps someone selling a nice 8x10 Set
Thank you guys for the help
Slowly everythings clearing up ....
one thing i would like to ask,
what would be a good rail lenghts/ bellow legnhts concerning portraits (face /half body shots) , i have read the working lenght for lenses should be arround 250-350mm (8x10)
I have seen some 8x10 currently offered
what do you guys think of TACHIHARA cameras, a TOYO 810M or a Cambo Legend 8X10 for my purposes?
I did not know that there is such a wide range of 8x10 cameras
Im really impressed, but it is hard to select for a newcomer
I like my 2-D. In the past, using odd-ball lenses was no problem as the lens boards can be made up from plywood with a table saw and a drill with a hole saw bit. Gaffer tape is a godsend and fix-all. 'Course this type of FIY doesn’t look professional. Really nice lens boards can be also be made at home with more expensive woods and more work . . .and they can look great.
Currently, I have an adapter board on my 8x10 that takes Toyo/Linhoff boards for 4x5. I swap my 210mm and sometimes the 150mm onto the big camera. Works as long as I watch the corners.
The Kodak 2-D cameras were used by the armed forces. Later on they used some 8x10 Deardorffs. There was a model made for the military that took 2-D lens boards with square corners.
Drew Bedo
www.quietlightphoto.com
http://www.artsyhome.com/author/drew-bedo
There are only three types of mounting flanges; too big, too small and wrong thread!
I think the 2-D is a good camera for this purpose. I use a Seneca Improved and I use several heavy lenses on mine. For portraits I have been using my 14" Darlot that comes in at just over 5 lbs. I shoot Efke-25 all of the time and x-ray film as well. I have recently started using a front mounted Packard shutter with this set up and it is a dream to use. For added insurance when I develop my negatives I do it by inspection under a green safe light and judge the density I need for carbon printing. My feeling is that Efke and/or x-ray film is great for portraits and everything else I shoot.
On a lighter note, there is the Galli Shutter.<grin>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Baa8Bwnn9Sk
Or a Guillotine shutter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8odb2...33B39E85EA89FC
A Packard shutter is a very versatile option. Use neutral density filters to lower the exposure times to a workable speed with the aperture wide open.
6x6-inch is a common lensboard size, fitting the Kodak 2D and several other of their 8x10 cameras. It also fits the 8x10 Burke and James Commercial View, and their 5x7 Rembrandt Portrait Camera. 6x6 is big eough to handle a fairly large lens, up to 5" diameter at the flange.
If you move up to a studio camera, most (not all) take a 9x9-inch lensboard, (the Century series, E. & H.T. Anthony, Burke & James...) Also, the Burke & James 11x14 Commercial View takes a 9x9.
You can make both sizes of boards from stock pretty easily with just a small table saw. With a 6x6-to-9x9 adapter board, you could put any lens on any of these cameras.
"I love my Verito lens, but I always have to sharpen everything in Photoshop..."
Thanks to everyone for the valuable information, i think i will try the kodak 2d as my first 8x10 , i think i will first try the nd filter method to get around 0.5 sec and slower, maybe its suits my needs, if not i can go packard aswell, i m excited i want to start shooting right now but will have to wait till i have my full functional first time setup, thank you all again for helping me out , i will post news soon
yes and the efke 25 , i love it, i hope its the same love with 8x10
great forum!!!
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