In praise of Divided Pyrocat

[Jim Noel]

Lately I have been using divided Pyrocat HD on a Jobo in Expert tanks. 5 minute pre-soak in plain water.
I have no problem with streaks or unevenness even when I use lith film in the camera which has always been the most difficult for me to develop evenly in a tray or hangers in a tank.

[Zaitz]

Well I don't know what I am doing wrong now. Tried it again, this time at 1:10 and the negative was still 90% clear. Definitly not a fixer issue. Then I saw the Pyrocat bottle after and noticed I forgot to shake them....wonder if that's what did it.

[Ken Lee]

If your film keeps coming out clear, it seems like the developer itself is bad.

Before trying it divided, did you establish that it works when combined ?

Did you purchase a 2-bottle kit, or did you mix it yourself ? In either case, is the the water or Glycol-based version ?

[Zaitz]

It worked the last time I tried two-bath but has also worked every time mixed. Just this week, after not having used it for a couple months, did I encounter this problem. The new negative at 1:10 does scan but is pretty atrocious looking. I gave it 6min in A @75° and 5min in B at 75°.

This is the one I am using:
http://stores.photoformulary.com/-st...-Hd/Detail.bok

2 bottle kit. Pre mixed liquid.

Again developed other sheets immediately after with R09 that look normal. So I don't think it's a water issue either. Might have to try a standard development with Pyrocat HD to see if something is up with the developer I guess. Thanks for the help.

[Ken Lee]

That formula doesn't seem to mention Glycol, so I presume it's prepared with water.

For what it's worth, in 2011 I switched to D-23 because my water-based Pyrocat failed one time too many. Developing by inspection with an Infra Red viewing device, the film wasn't developing at all, but I was able to add some Metol powder to the developer, and that rescued the negatives - but I vowed "never again".

After a year, I tired of mixing developer from scratch every time, so I prepared some Pyrocat in Glycol, and I'm hooked again. It's as fresh today as the day I mixed it.

Here's a link to Photographer's Formulary Glcycol-based version: http://stores.photoformulary.com/-st...col/Detail.bok

They note the following: "Packaging in glycol stabilizes the formula to give a very long shelf life and long term consistency."

By the way, your photos from inside the church are really nicely done !

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zboumee...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zboumee...n/photostream/

[Lachlan 717]

Zaitz,

You need to shake the bottles before use!!!

I can't remember which of the parts needs it, so just do both.

If that doesn't help, I'm out of ideas...

[mdm]

It does come out thin though, and if you are using an acid stop or fix then that could kill the stain and most of the density. I notice no stain with hypo/sulfite fixer but ilford hypam fixer seems to leave the stain.

[Zaitz]

That formula doesn't seem to mention Glycol, so I presume it's prepared with water.

For what it's worth, in 2011 I switched to D-23 because my water-based Pyrocat failed one time too many. Developing by inspection with an Infra Red viewing device, the film wasn't developing at all, but I was able to add some Metol powder to the developer, and that rescued the negatives - but I vowed "never again".

After a year, I tired of mixing developer from scratch every time, so I prepared some Pyrocat in Glycol, and I'm hooked again. It's as fresh today as the day I mixed it.

Here's a link to Photographer's Formulary Glcycol-based version: http://stores.photoformulary.com/-st...col/Detail.bok

They note the following: "Packaging in glycol stabilizes the formula to give a very long shelf life and long term consistency."

By the way, your photos from inside the church are really nicely done !

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zboumee...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zboumee...n/photostream/

Thank you, I really appreciate that! It's really a great place because they have no problems with photography. I did just see the Glycol version too. So maybe it is shaking the bottles or just old/bad but I'll go with that version next time.

Zaitz,

You need to shake the bottles before use!!!

I can't remember which of the parts needs it, so just do both.

If that doesn't help, I'm out of ideas...

Not sure how I missed that. I was paying so much attention to getting the times/temps/ and agitation for the B bath right that I didn't even look at the Pyrocat bottles to notice the 'Shake Well' bit. I was trying to use two Combiplan tanks for the process which worked fairly smoothly....other than practically no image .

It does come out thin though, and if you are using an acid stop or fix then that could kill the stain and most of the density. I notice no stain with hypo/sulfite fixer but ilford hypam fixer seems to leave the stain.

Thin would be nice in this case. On the first go around I thought all 3 negatives were 100% clear. I had to look very, very closely to see any image at all in 2 of them. 1:10 dilution made the image stronger but still nothing close to even a bad negative. My other Pyro negatives processed traditionally have looked great, even divided in the BTZS tubes save the uneven development and 'drag' from scratches.

[Ken Lee]

Indoors during a snow storm, Massachusetts 2013
Sinar P, 210mm Macro Sironar N
4x5 TMY, Divided Pyrocat HDC

Here's a shot where exposure for shadow areas was long enough to place the snow-lit outdoors at Zone XII and beyond.

I keep coming back to this developer, and to scenes whose extreme brightness range renders them "unsuitable" subjects.

[Ari]

Ken,
I would never do something like that, much less use a sheet of film for such a scene, much less photograph inanimate objects; but I gotta say, that's quite beautiful.
The tones of the interior are quite luscious, and you've proven yourself a master of subtlety and finesse.