In praise of Divided Pyrocat

[sanking]

Thanks Sandy, I was just about to ask just about everything you addressed. My last question (at least for now)—is 2-bath Pyrocat suitable for silver printing or is it at its best when scanning? I currently use stand developing when dealing with high SBR scenes, but 2-bath looks like it could be simpler and certainly quicker.

If you use two-bath development for that specific purpose, i.e. scenes of very high SBR, it should work fine for silver developing with VC papers.

As a general replacement for stand or semi-stand development for silver printing, where you need a lot of control of negative contrast, you are probably better served by traditional single bath development.

Sandy

[lbenac]

The trick is to get it immersed in the B all at once, just as Sandy outlined above. I can't help it, I keep learning. Someday I'll master it.Peter Gomena

I think that this is where I fail. Even with dropping the roll or the the sheets mounted on a Combi holder or Nikkor holder directly into solution B i still do not get the sky right. I need night vision :-)

[Richard Wasserman]

If you use two-bath development for that specific purpose, i.e. scenes of very high SBR, it should work fine for silver developing with VC papers.

As a general replacement for stand or semi-stand development for silver printing, where you need a lot of control of negative contrast, you are probably better served by traditional single bath development.

Sandy

Thank you, Sandy. I'll give it a try and see how it behaves.

[venchka]

There are a few keys to get even development with two bath Pyrocat.

1. Pre-soak the film in water for 3-5 minutes. Temperature should be the same as that of the developer, say 75F.

1. Add a few drops of PhotoFlo to Solution A. This will break the surface tension and assure that the solution drains evenly after development. Uneven draining would mean that some areas of the film absorb more of the reducer than others, leading inevitably to uneven development and streaking. Agitate continuously in Solution A for five minutes, then drain the film for fifteen seconds.

3. At the start of development in Solution B the solution should contact the film everywhere at the same time. If one area of the film is contacted by Solution B a second or two before another area there will almost certainly be uneven development at this place on the film. If working with roll film on reels just plop the film into Solution B, don't pour it in. With sheet film I have found that BTZS tubes work fine. Just fill a second cap with Solution B, then after draining Solution A place the tube over the cap, invert and immediately agitate. Agitate in Solution B continuously for about one minute, then for about fifteen seconds every minute thereafter. The film is almost completely developed after the first minute, but some shadow density will continue to develop for another three or four minutes.

When exposing scenes of very high contrast, base exposure on a meter reading in the deepest shadows where you expect detail and texture on the print. Rate the film for about 1/2 the maker's ISO to compensate for some of film speed with this method. Don't worry about SBR or N value as the mechanism of two bath development will automatically prevent the high values from being overdeveloped. Remove the film from the camera and label for two-bath development.

Sandy

Sandy,

I use Jobo tanks turning on a Uniroller base for all of my film. Will the need for instant immersion in Solution B cause any problems?

Wayne

[Ken Lee]

I developed my roll in a cheap plastic Paterson tank: no problems. Just spin the thing.

[sanking]

Sandy,

I use Jobo tanks turning on a Uniroller base for all of my film. Will the need for instant immersion in Solution B cause any problems?

Wayne

Wayne,

Unfortunately I have no experience with Jobo and this type of development. The key, I believe, is whether the method used by Jobo to fill the tubes allows Solution B hits the film almost everywhere at the same time.

Sandy

[Peter De Smidt]

I've have used divided Pyrocat MC in a Jobo expert drum for some 4x5" Acros negatives. I didn't notice any unevenness, but I didn't run any tests specifically looking for that.

[Ken Lee]

I added a second photo to the original post. The second one shows what's really on the negative. It's got less punch, but more data in the shadows, and perhaps a more analog feeling.

[Holdenrichards]

Incredible result!

[Zaitz]

Love the results. I've tried this with 8x10 BTZS tubes but got uneven development. I'll have to try adding photoflo. I also got streaks I think because of scratches caused by the BTZS tube and the way the developer was dragged over during agitation. Need to try it with the 4x5 Combiplan.