Newbie needs guidance

[Bill, 70's military B&W]

Hello everyone, my first post, I was trained in photography, USMC, back in the early 70's. We recorded detail, I did not appreciate the art aspects until I recently started reading about Ansel Adams' Zone System. I vaguely remember using Speed Graphic 4x5, and during training using an old wood framed 8x10. Other cameras too, but I do not remember names. About 4-5 years ago I bought a digital Rebel and I've been shooting since in 35mm format...then struggling with Photoshop. Sometimes the results are good, but I want to try to get back into the larger formats. Manual stuff, setting my own exposure, Camera with no electronics, smelly darkroom, dodging and burning, watching the image come to life...
My question for the forum is how to proceed, do I first try MF 6x6, or 6x7... or should I go to a view camera with all the adjustments? Was there once, a long time ago.
I kinda like the thought of focusing on the ground glass, composing carefully, "exposing for the shadows and developing for the highlights".
All I have so far is a very strong tripod. I would need everything else for LF, including darkroom. Again, any suggestions on how to proceed there?
You guys probably get tired of newbies asking the same questions. I"d really appreciate any advice.

Bill

[Jim Andrada]

Monorail cameras are pretty cheap right now. Maybe not as easy to carry in the field, but not as bad as some think IMHO. My first LF was a rented Technika for a couple of weeks and then I got a monorail Linhof 5 x 7 which I've had for 40 years now - carried it pretty much everywhere uphill and down so it can be done. I had a rail shortened enough that I could drop the whole camera into a backpack all set up - worked out just fine. Put the short rail on the tripod, screwed in the extension, slid the front standard down the rail and I was in business.

[cdholden]

Get a Speed Graphic. You've done it before. That's where your familiarity will be. Once you get your comfort level back, then see if you need features of other cameras. You can buy and sell these and not lose much money in the process. You might even make a few bucks to pay for more film and chemicals.

[Jim Andrada]

I have a couple of Graphics - love them. Easy to carry in a compact bag on the plane, lots of fun. The flip side is the lack of movements. My Super has front tilt but you need 3 hands to do it. Other problem with the Super is that the tracks inside the body don't focus so really short lenses don't work as well as they do in, for example, a Crown. Grafmatic loaded with Tri-x or Portra 400 and the wire frame viewfinder and focus by guess - great fun.

But I like my monorail Linhof a lot better for serious stuff.

[loweprobackpacks]

i have the sam feeling,i am also a beginner,i want to study photography here,hopefully,you can teach me,also i want to talk about photography technologies with all of you.
thanks

[John Kasaian]

First get a copy of Steve Simmons Using The View camera Its not Ansel Adams, but it does give an excellent overview and discusses the merits of older, used equipment and lenses a lot of us start out with.

I'd suggest a 4x5 like a Super Speed (or Crown) Graphic or monorail or a field camera with a Omega D2 or D-II enlarger (or a graflarger if your camera has a graflock back.) You can probably pick up an old Calumet monorail for not much over $100 and a D-II for about the same. Add a set of trays, a timer & grain focuser, and a safe light and you're in business!
OR pass on the 4x5 & enlarger and find a 5x7 or 8x10 (if your tripod can handle it) and make contact prints---even simpler! Which is the most practical would depend on your budget, the size of your dark room and what your subjects will be (an 8x10 Calumet green monster isn't practical for back packing!)

Have fun!

[Mark Barendt]

I like to print about 11x14 and am truly amazed by how much difference I see in moving from 35mm to 6x7 then from there to 4x5.

I like MF when I want to shoot hand held or setup & focus quickly like in street shooting, it's also normally easier to get a lower camera position/perspective and roll film is great when I want/need say ten shots of a given subject/situation in short order.

I like LF for more control of DOF, focus plane, and the smooth sharp look of the prints.

The other thing I like about sheet film is that I can shoot one and develop one, well normally for me, two and two. My point here is that there is no need to "finish a roll" before developing. With MF I find 10 frames is, many times, too many. Then the film either waits in the camera or half a roll is wasted on nonsense shots or blanks.

Both have their place in my life.

[Bill, 70's military B&W]

Thanks everyone,
For all the suggestions, I have a lot to learn. I've looked up some of your suggestions on e-bay, and I know that there is a lot more to this than I know now. No hurry.
In a few more weeks I'll be allowed to see what is for sale at LFPF. A 4x5 view camera looks like the most fun.

If anyone knows of a great package deal, where someone is selling a complete set-up (dark room too), I'd be really interested.

I have Ansel Adams books, and a great book by John Schaefer "Basic Techniques of Photography". I'll look into "Using the View Camera" by Simmons, sounds like a great reference.

Question for everyone, do most photographers use the zone system? What about spot meters vs other meters? Is it true that Pentax spot meter is the one to get?
What size lenses do you need in 4x5 format? Wide/normal/tele/super-tele???

Thanks,
Bill

[joselsgil]

Bill,

Welcome to the forum and back into B&W photography.

As for a 4X5 camera, I would suggest the Crown Graphic over the Speed Graphic. It is lighter and without the focal place shutter that most likely will need servicing ($$$). As suggested, you can also find a Calumet monorail for under $100. The Calumet will work great, about it's only drawback is that it is not very compact or light weight if you plan on taking your camera on extended hiking trips.

For darkroom items, you can find some items on this site, the bay, and your local craigslist. I have found many darkrooms items on my local craigslist as many of the darkroom items are too bulky and expensive to ship, so they seldom are good deals on the bay.

If you read about the zone system, you will realize that most photographer use the principal of the zone system, once they understand how to expose, develop and make their own prints. This just becomes a natural progression. What Adams was able to do, was write down and explain it in a system. As he put it, he didn't invent it. Minor White, is another photographer that wrote "Zone System Manual, How To Previsualize Your Pictures", a zone system explanation in very easy to understand terms.

Your question concerning the meter is valid. The problem with Pentax spot meters is that they are very old now and may need servicing. I was suggested by Quality Light Metric, to obtain a newer Minolta digital meter. On some of the meters you can install a spot meter adaptor.

Lenses, like with your 35mm, it all depends on what you are photographing and what you are trying to accomplish. A 90mm is equivalent to a 28mm in 35mm photography. A 150mm is considered normal and 210mm would be considered a very good all around or portrait lens.

I hope you find some of this info helpfull,

Jose

[Alan Gales]

I started with large format a couple years ago and I highly recommend the Steve Simmons book. It really helped me.

The Pentax spot meter is like the benchmark of spot meters. What I mean is that everyone compares other spot meters to them. I own both a Spot meter V and the digital version. They are reliable and very easy to use. As far as being the best, well everyone has their opinion. There are other very good quality spot meters like the Minolta and Soligor.

What size lenses do you need for 4x5? All of them. Just kidding! That is very subjective. Only you can answer that question. I would start with a 150mm or 210mm. Learn to use that lens and then you will have a better idea what you may want next.