What 8x10 lenses to get?

[Ernest Purdum]

Regarding Cap Frank's questions, several symmetrical designs are quite tolerant of differences in subject/image ratio. One example is the dialyte, four individual elements with the positive elements front and rear. Examples are the highly regarded 203mm f7.7 Ektar, and several process lenses such as the Apo Artar, Repro-Claron and others. More compact vertical process cameras brought a requirement for lenses of similar characteristics, but greater coverage for a given focal length. The G-Claron was a very successful response to these needs. There are actually two versions of the G-Claron. To gain the increased coverage, it was necessary to go to six elements. Originally, these were all cemented, but later production items have an airspace which gives the designer a little more opportunity for correction. While it is true that its ideal use is at close to 1:1, when stopped down to f22 it gives an image at infinity which is quite acceptable. Many photographers are very pleased to have the small size and weight of the G-Claron and find the small aperture no sacrifice.



I don't know anything to do about the paint problem.



The Apo Lanthar prices are, I think, just one more example of supply and demand. They weren't made for very long, so there are less of them available than there are people who would like to use one. I used a 300mm Apo Lanthar on 4X5 for many years, mostly for product photography, and found it a delight to use. A bright image and lots of coverage are a pleasant combination. Now that shutters for large aperture long focal length lenses are no longer available, I suppose it will remain as the best f4.5 300mm lens available. The smaller sizes have more modern competition, but there are still potential buyers attracted by the lenses' large aperture and fine reputation.

[David A. Goldfarb]

Among the older lenses, from what it sounds like your budget and projected uses are, it's hard to go wrong with the 12" and 14" Goerz Dagors (look for the later coated Gold Dot/Gold Rim versions), coated Red Dot Artars at longer focal lengths, and the Kodak 10" Wide-Field Ektar as a moderate wide-angle with huge coverage. The only downside to these lenses, as I see it, are the older Ilex shutters, which won't give you quite the precision of a new Copal shutter (but not an issue if you are shooting with strobes), and also the odd filter sizes, but you can get adapters.

Front mounting barrel lenses on one big shutter is not a bad idea. I got lucky and picked up a 12" Gold Dot Dagor and 19" Apo-Artar that had the same flange size, so I had an adapter made by S. K. Grimes to use either on the Ilex 5 shutter that normally contains a 10" Wide-Field Ektar. Having three lenses with one shutter and lensboard greatly reduces the bulk and weight of my 8x10" kit, and although it's an older shutter, at least my shutter speeds are consistent from one lens to the other. I don't get any vignetting with the front mount on 8x10", but it is a bit of a restriction on 11x14", so I'll probably eventually have the Dagor and the Artar mounted in their own shutters.

Among the modern lenses from the major manufacturers--Schneider, Rodenstock, Caltar, Fuji, and Nikkor--most are pretty good, and you can select on the basis of the features you like--speed vs. coverage vs. weight/bulk vs. cost.

Newer lenses often have less coverage than some of the older ones (with notable exceptions like the Schneider Super-Symmar and Super-Angulon XL series), but the image circle will tend to be sharper from corner to corner. This has advantages and disadvantages. By restricting the circle of illumination, you get less light bouncing around in the camera that can reduce contrast, and if you're outside the circle of good definition, you'll know it because you can see the vignetting. On the other hand, what if you are taking a photo with no important detail in the corner at the edge of the image circle?--the lack of resolution at the edge of the image circle with an older lens isn't necessarily a disadvantage in such a case, and you might tolerate it if the alternative is mechanical vignetting.

[neil poulsen]

Another well known lens for 8x10 to consider is the Fujinon W 250mm f6.7. (Not the f6.3.) This has an image circle of 389mm, which is sizeable for its lenstype. This is not as good as the WF Ektar 250mm, which has a 410 image circle, or so. But, it's suitable for field work. It's lightweight, compared to other lenses in it's focal length, and it's mounted in a Copal 1 shutter.

[arkadi]

have anything changed here since 2004? Any news or new choices?
I am mostly concerned about optical quality rather than weight or price.

thanks!

[Alan Gales]

have anything changed here since 2004? Any news or new choices?
I am mostly concerned about optical quality rather than weight or price.

thanks!

Here you go for normal to long. http://www.cookeoptics.com/l/xva.html Ari has one and loves it!

I'll buy my copy when I win the lottery!

[Luis-F-S]

If you had to get two lenses, I would push you towards a 240 Dagor and a 480 Artar. These are based on the way I want my prints to look ...;-) but Dagors and Artars are affordable and tend to hold their value well if you decide you prefer another look.

I'd go for a 12" Dagor and the 19" Artar. The 9/12" Dagor is a nice wider lens to the 12", or if you want wider, go with the 8 1/4". If just one lens, then the 12" Dagor. L

[John Kasaian]

I have added only a 12" Dagor and a 15" B&L Petzval magic lantern lens to the 8x10 fleet since '04.
Awesome self control, eh?

[arkadi]

am I right sensing that basically no one manufactures new lenses for 8x10 and bigger that's why we are left with what was there for decades?

[Steven Tribe]

OK - this thread has arisen from the dead!

Have suggested to the Mods that it has a moving day to the Lens thread.

[ruilourosa]

Well...

I have some lenses for 8x10... an american tessar copy (Ilex Paragon) 375mm, a nikkor-w 300mm, a g claron 240mm, a fuji w 210mm, and a 165mm angulon, apart from flare and color they all look sharp, the angulon is a bit tricky to use but it works...

i even made a 600 ish out of two achromat close ups that works very well for portraits and has a huge coverage...


i think any lens will work, although i would prefer new lenses, i lust for a nikkor 120, a sheneider 150 xl, a fuji 450,

but save some money for film as is expensive as hell


cheers