C-41 lab for 5x7?

[false_Aesthetic]

Hey,

I'm in LA and have some 5x7 that I'd like to get developed.

Back when I shot 4x5 and drum scanned them I was always totally frustrated with the clip marks/holes that most of the labs created when they developed the film. I finally found a lab that didn't do that. (I think they just ran stuff in a JOBO). Unfortunately, that lab is now closed.

I'm hoping someone might have a lead on a lab that can do 5x7 c-41 w/out producing clip marks/holes.

Thanks
T

[eddy pula]

There used to be a whole lab ghetto on Cucamonga, my favorite had ivy growing on it and total hotties working inside.

[DolphinDan]

Hi,

Not in LA but in Santa Barbara, is COLOR SERVICES:

http://colorservices.com/

They did a good job with my 5x7s, although I cannot recall if they left clip marks or not...

Namaste
Daniel

[Mike Boden]

The Icon will process 5x7 c-41: http://www.iconla.com

However, I'm not aware if they can process w/out producing clip marks/holes. I suggest you give them a call.

[Daniel Stone]

Samy's in Santa Barbara does 5x7 C-41 IIRC

they use a Refrema, so they'll leave clip marks

Bob Carnie's lab in Toronto IIRC uses Jobo's, but he might have a per-run fee. Not sure though

-Dan

[Gudmundur Ingolfsson]

JOBO is no good for C-41 except you have found a way to process at lower temperatures. Refrema is the state of the art processor.
There is a lab in Rochester http://www.4photolab.com/

[Noah A]

It's a trade-off for sure. I dislike the clip marks that mean I'll need to crop more, but on the other hand I've had lots of bad C-41 processing in roller transport (for rollfilm) and jobo/rotary machines. It's very hard to get even edge development in a jobo with c-41. Philadelphia Photographics does use a jobo for c-41 sheet film, but when I had them run some test sheets the edges were very underdeveloped. If you insist on a jobo, they might do it for you if you don't mind shipping your film. They're nice folks.

My current lab, Taylor Photo in Princeton, NJ, does a good job with putting the clip marks very close to the edge of the film. The odd thing is they only do this if you ask...not sure why it's not their normal practice. But when I ask they generally do a great job of getting the clips close to the edge. Again, this is only useful if you want to ship your film, but I'm also posting for the benefit of others looking for the same thing...

I tried Praus and while the processing was very clean, the clips were very far into the film. I asked Edgar ahead of time about it and he said he liked the aesthetic of printing with the clip marks and he said that "you get what you get" or something to that effect. Personally I don't like the aesthetic of having the clip marks 1/4 inch into the film, and I really didn't like his attitude, so he lost my business (which is 1000+ sheets a year, btw).

Samy's was pretty good about leaving the clips close to the edge as well, and they're cheap.

[Gudmundur Ingolfsson]

I scan my 5x7'' and my 4x5'' color negatives and it is no problem to retouch the clip marks away in Photoshop before I print them out on an Epson or have them printed out on a Light Jet. It is much less work to get the clip marks away than to try to even out mottled skies.

[false_Aesthetic]

I know that I can take the clip marks out but its a slightly bigger PITA to take the air bubbles out when you wet-mount . . . and its easier to avoid the problem in the first place. Yeah, I got spoiled with this previous lab.

We'll see.

Thanks guys

[Noah A]

For wet mounting I started giving an extra squirt of fluid near the clip marks. That, plus ensuring the mylar is tight, means normally I don't get bubbles around the clip holes.

I hate them too, but as others have said, they're easier to deal with than mottling or uneven development.