I've been shooting professionally for almost a decade. I have a degree in photojournalism, and understand the physics of light pretty well. I own too many film cameras.
That being said, I've never used anything larger than a 6x6 slr.
I started building a camera, not from different parts from major manufacturers, from wood and nails and glue. It's going to be a box camera, the type common in Cuba, India and Afghanistan. The basically have a tiny darkroom inside of them: a box of photo paper which is used as the "film," a tray of developing chemicals, and a tray of fix. You can get a lot of details on the cameras here - http://www.afghanboxcamera.com/ - if you haven't already heard of them.
I'm designing mine to shoot 5x7 piece of photo paper. I'm building everything myself except the trays and the lens. Needless to say, I have a few questions.
1) I'm thinking about mounting a 210mm lens in the camera. So my first question is this, will a typical 210mm designed for a 4x5 camera cover a 5x7? Keep in mind that my camera will have absolutely no movement. I believe most 4x5 lens account for movement. I'm asking now because I can still redesign the camera to shoot 4x6 is necessary. (Side question, is the 210mm an OK choice, I want a "normal" lens, like a 50mm on a 35mm camera)
2) These cameras have a built in copy stand. You expose the first image of your subject on photo paper which appears as a negative, then you take another exposure of that negative using a copy stand. I'm having trouble calculating two things. First, how far away copy stand must sit from the lens? It can't be too far away or too close, it needs to fill up another 5x7. Basically, I need the lens to subject distance for a 1:1 macro reproduction.
3) Furthermore, what is the distance required between the lens and the film for a 1:1 reproduction. I have at least 300mm of space for the lens to travel, but I want to make sure that's enough. (To restate in a different way, the minimum distance from lens to film will be 210mm, the maximum could be 510mm, is that enough?)
3) I'll be focusing on a groundglass and then putting my paper directly on to the groundglass to expose. So the surface of the paper will be slightly forward of the plane of focus. I'm also building the this focusing/film holding mechanism, so I'm wondering how perfect it needs to be. If the photo paper is leaning backward for forward say 2-3mm, am I going to get an extreme tilt-shift effect or is 2-3mm not a huge detail. I'm not looking for Linhof sharpness or accuracy, but I'd prefer the thing not to be a giant Holga.
4) Lastly, I need to buy a lens. I don't want to spend more than $300 and would prefer to spend half that. It doesn't need a shutter though it would be nice, and an attached board would be helpful (and if it doesn't have a shutter, it needs a good lens cap). KEH has a good selection of lenses in my price range, but it seems most have a DB mount and I'm not sure if that will work for my purposes. If the lens doesn't have an attached shutter, it just needs to be open so I can use a lens cap as the shutter (like back in the old-timey days).
The main purpose of this is to be something fun and perhaps to be used as an education tool. If it ends up producing really nice images, I may use it for a portrait series or a landscape series (hence the initial 50mm-equivalent lens).
You're welcome to call me crazy in your responses. I hope to have this thing knocked out in the next month. All of these problems are arising because all of the cameras I've seen in use produce small images, maybe 2x3 inches, so I'm upscaling a design and running into math problems. The build already has some blood and sweat poured into it. I was using a hole saw and it about ripped my arm off, lol!
Thanks in advance for all your help!
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