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Thread: 11x14 Premo dryplate holder - repairable?

  1. #1
    Analog Photographer Kimberly Anderson's Avatar
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    11x14 Premo dryplate holder - repairable?

    I have this 11x14 dryplate holder marked The Premo Camera PATJULY101890

    One of the darkslides is warped from where it sat in some water for a while, the center septum which is made out of brown/reddish cardboard is also very warped, the other darkslide is decent and the holder itself seems to be in fairly good condition.

    It came with two aluminum inserts to use 14x10 film (at least those are the measurements), and they are marked on the back ALCOA .020" ANA AN-A-12ST 24 S-T

    I am wondering if I can turn this into a half-decent wet-plate holder or if it's worth more to someone looking for parts for a plate holder they might have of their own.

    Thanks!

    Pics later...

  2. #2
    Format Omnivore Brian C. Miller's Avatar
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    Re: 11x14 Premo dryplate holder - repairable?

    Compression will straighten the warped pieces. However, this will take some time, like months.

    When it was decided to turn the Pittock Mansion into a museum, they found that there was a lot of repair work to be done. In one of the bedrooms the windows had broken, and the floor boards had become warped from rain water blowing in on them. One of the original builders told them to place large water barrels full of water on the boards, and they would straighten out under the load. It took about six months, but it worked just fine.
    "It's the way to educate your eyes. Stare. Pry, listen, eavesdrop. Die knowing something. You are not here long." - Walker Evans

  3. #3
    Analog Photographer Kimberly Anderson's Avatar
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    Re: 11x14 Premo dryplate holder - repairable?

    As a regular visitor to said mansion I can attest to the efficacy of such repairs.

  4. #4
    Deardorff Sales and service
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    Re: 11x14 Premo dryplate holder - repairable?

    If you can unglue the frame to get the septum out a dry mount press makes quick work of flatening it. When I was rebuilding my old holders I could not pull the darkslides out. I sprayed both sides of the DS's with water and put them in the drymount press at 170degrees (measured by a meat thermometer) for an hour then flip it and heat the other side. Then with it still in the press, turn the press off and let it sit overnight or till cool. Pull them out and they will be nice and flat. Repeat if needed.The darkslides, after they are flat coat them with clear spray lacquer. Not enamel. The lacquer will soak in the resin board and prevent the darkslides from warping or asorbing moisture.The railroad board that the septum is made from will react the same way. The adapter is just a sheet of Alcoa Aluminum. I think those are a stock number refering to a type of alloy.
    Ken Hough Deardorff Refinisher since 1982
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  5. #5
    Analog Photographer Kimberly Anderson's Avatar
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    Re: 11x14 Premo dryplate holder - repairable?

    Hey Ken,

    Thanks for the tips! I will do the DS's like you suggest, but how the heck do I 'unglue' the frame? I don't want to ruin it!

    Quote Originally Posted by TheDeardorffGuy View Post
    If you can unglue the frame to get the septum out a dry mount press makes quick work of flatening it. When I was rebuilding my old holders I could not pull the darkslides out. I sprayed both sides of the DS's with water and put them in the drymount press at 170degrees (measured by a meat thermometer) for an hour then flip it and heat the other side. Then with it still in the press, turn the press off and let it sit overnight or till cool. Pull them out and they will be nice and flat. Repeat if needed.The darkslides, after they are flat coat them with clear spray lacquer. Not enamel. The lacquer will soak in the resin board and prevent the darkslides from warping or asorbing moisture.The railroad board that the septum is made from will react the same way. The adapter is just a sheet of Alcoa Aluminum. I think those are a stock number refering to a type of alloy.

  6. #6
    Deardorff Sales and service
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    Re: 11x14 Premo dryplate holder - repairable?

    most old frames are glued with "hide glue" Putting it an oven will soften it. Try 150 and test till it pulls apart. Maybe higher? 160.. Just keep an eye on it and handle with mitts. Google hide glue melting point. see: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/w...hhideglue.aspx

    You cant really ruin it. After you disassemple it replace the felt. The glue will wash out with hot water. Get some flakes and mix it up and reglue. I prefer a thick glue. You can use a double boiler to make it. Its like melting sugar.
    Ken Hough Deardorff Refinisher since 1982
    Deardorff Factory refinisher / remanufacturer 1982-88
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  7. #7
    Analog Photographer Kimberly Anderson's Avatar
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    Re: 11x14 Premo dryplate holder - repairable?

    Ken, can I come hang out with you for a year or so?

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    Re: 11x14 Premo dryplate holder - repairable?

    Quote Originally Posted by michael slade View Post
    Ken, can I come hang out with you for a year or so?
    +1!

  9. #9
    Deardorff Sales and service
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    Re: 11x14 Premo dryplate holder - repairable?

    Thanks Guys. But both spare rooms are full of stuff!! Seriously if you have a wood question or mechanical question let me know. I used to recement lenses and still do shutter work. Not much I have not done in 35 years of repair
    Ken Hough Deardorff Refinisher since 1982
    Deardorff Factory refinisher / remanufacturer 1982-88
    Deardorff Factory Historian 82-88
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  10. #10
    (Shrek)
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    Re: 11x14 Premo dryplate holder - repairable?

    Quote Originally Posted by TheDeardorffGuy View Post
    The darkslides, after they are flat coat them with clear spray lacquer. Not enamel. The lacquer will soak in the resin board and prevent the darkslides from warping or asorbing moisture.The railroad board that the septum is made from will react the same way.
    I am restoring some old whole plate & 11x14 holders with cardboard darkslides. I have flattened them and lacquered with a clear coat, but they seem to be a little thicker than they used to be in some areas where they lost their original finish. Some are quite hard to slide in. I'm thinking of buffing them with beeswax, to help with the look and hopefully lubricate the edges a little. Any thoughts?

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